In the Gaspesie, when they say "snow", think "winter wonderland"...we aren't talking normal Eastern snow here! We traveled up to find out if there was something beyond snowmobiling there...and found more than we bargained for.(David Shedd photo)

Stretching northeast from the northern tip of Maine, along the south shore of  the St. Lawrence River, the Gaspésie (or Gaspé Peninsula, as it is often called) is Quebec’s summer playground. With over 500 miles of coastline, it’s a natural for Québécois trying to escape the heat. Beyond that, however, the Gaspésie is home to some of the world’s most famous salmon rivers, drawing fanatic anglers from around the world. The International Appalachian Trail brings hikers through the interior to Cap Gaspé, the end of the mainland trail. All in all, it has a thriving, busy, bustling summer economy for such a remote area.

But winter…well, that’s a different story. Snowmobilers are the predominant tourists, drawn by over 1000 miles of maintained trails and the regular lake-effect snow caused by having water on three sides of the peninsula. Doesn’t that seem like a total waste of snow to you, particularly in an area filled with mountains? It certainly did to us. Even though there are no “major” ski mountains on the Gaspesie, there must be something for us non-motorized winter enthusiasts, right? Time for a road trip…and what better time to do it than February, when the snow is deep and the days are getting longer, which means more skiing time!

If you are heading into the Gaspé by all means plan a stop at Quebec City. It’s  hard to justify going all the way up there without enjoying all that marvelous city has to offer. Lodging can be had at relatively modest cost outside the city center, but if you’re going to splurge there are a couple of great options, including the historic Château Frontenac. Owned by the Fairmont hotel chain, it’s been upgraded but not stripped of charm; how many hotels do you know of that have a four-legged official greeter? Santol is a trained guide dog, but he prefers to socialize with as many people as possible…and he made us feel right at home. On the way back from the Gaspesie, we stayed at the Hotel Château Laurier; in many ways, it’s the opposite of the Frontenac. Yes, it’s in Old Quebec, but…well, do wine vending machines in the hallways sound traditional? Another non-traditional twist is that the hotel doesn’t have a dining room; rather, they partner with other restaurants in the city to create packages that appeal to different gastronomic tastes.

Had we known what was awaiting us at the Gite du Mont Albert, we'd have been a bit less concerned about rain forcing us inside! (Susan Marean Shedd photo)

We awoke our first morning in Quebec to a sound we really didn’t want to hear…rain dripping off the roof of the Frontenac.  Fabulous…here we are in Quebec in February to head into the snowy backcountry, and it’s raining??? With our usual optimism only slightly dampened, we  headed for the town of Ste. Anne des Monts. We’d planned the first day to be relaxed, with sightseeing along the way; it’s roughly a 6-hour drive up there (see why we wanted to stop in Quebec City the night before?) along the St. Lawrence River, so there should be plenty to see, right?  Well…not so much in a cold, foggy rain, when we were wondering if there would be snow at the destination OR if the rain would turn into ice and leave us stranded. The St. Lawrence was barely visible through the fog, but one feature of the trip stood out…windmills! Canada is investing heavily in a renewable energy future, and we saw hundreds of the massive beasts, turning slowly and gracefully in the distance. It’s magnificent, and a reminder of the focus on reduced pollution in the area (yes, we’re comparing it to the slow progress in the U.S.).

By Ste. Anne, we’d decided to relax and make an early start into the mountains the next day. Luckily, it’s hard to go through any town in Quebec of any size without finding a nice place to stay and some good food. The former was easily met by La Seigneurie des Monts, a historic inn close enough to the St. Lawrence that Tom Brady could chuck a football into the water from their porch. Unfortunately, their dining room wasn’t open, but the seemingly bizarrely named Pub Chez Bass wasn’t far away. On a cold, foggy night, pub food seemed perfect, and the warm atmosphere relaxed us…and as we ate, the rain turned to snow.

They do call is SNOWshoeing; in the Gaspesie, they aren't fooling around when it comes to the white stuff! (Susan Marean Shedd photo)

After an excellent breakfast at La Seigneurie, we were on our way to the Gîte du Mont-Albert…and more snow! We’d somehow found our way into an oddball weather system where the warm rain near Quebec City had broken the ice on the St. Lawrence, and a cold north wind was lifting the moisture off the river and depositing it on our heads. Over the next 5 days, we literally had a only few hours when it wasn’t snowing. Unfortunately, the stunning views the area is known for were mostly hidden; but the tradeoff was nearly constant fresh tracks. Life is so hard…

For our first day at the Gîte, we decided to go snowshoeing and shake the travel kinks out of our legs before beating them up on the boards. The Gîte provided us with a brown bag lunch and sent us out with a guide to the Abri de la Serpentine, a shelter tucked up among the mountains. It’s a 12.6 kilometer, roughly 5 hour trip; the first section is a LONG uphill climb to the cabin, where you can rest, warm up, eat lunch, and then head back toward the Gîte around Lac du Diable. Even though it was cold and snowing, it didn’t take us long to strip down to our baselayers as we climbed…and climbed…some steeps, but mostly just a nice, steady, manageable uphill. The views were almost surreal; the sun clearly wanted to come out, and there didn’t LOOK to be much in the way of clouds above, but the snow just kept coming and coming. We were certainly ready for our break when we reached the cabin, and no food was left behind, either! The trip down was…well, just plain silly fun. Thigh deep powder on snowshoes means hard work while climbing, but downhills are pretty much a standing glissade; well, at least until I caught a toe of my snowshoe on a branch and executed a perfect header, to the great amusement of my companions, who unanimously scored it a 10.

Back at the Gîte, the bar was about as nice a place to relax before dinner as any we’ve ever seen. The combination of soaring ceilings and traditional wood construction was both modern and homey at the same time…and a friendly bartender and a nice glass of wine prepared us for the kind of comfort food you’d expect at a mountain lodge. Okay, not really…this is Quebec. The food was almost shockingly gourmet; it almost felt as if we’d been transported back to Quebec City. Roughing it, this isn’t! After dinner, back to the room; no late night for us, as we knew what was coming the following day…

If you want true backcountry skiing, Ski Chic-Chocs will get you there! (David Shedd photo)

And in the morning, I was off to take advantage of one of only two full-on cat skiing operations in the Northeast (the other being in Newfoundland, even farther into the middle of nowhere). Ski Chic-Chocs exists to make it easier for backcountry skiers to enjoy the ridiculous amounts of powder the Gaspe receives, providing guides (and rental equipment) as well as somewhat-warmer-than-outside cabins in their Catski to drag us back up the hill. It’s not Western cat skiing; the mountains aren’t that big. But, they’re plenty big and plenty wild, particularly in the disorienting conditions of constant snowfall. Up top, in the howling wind, the surfaces were scratchy…but as we skied down, the snow underfoot got deeper and deeper. In the trees, protected from the wind, it approached waist deep in places.

Everest? No, but for all we could tell, it could have been...by the time we reached the top, our earlier tracks were nearly filled in! (David Shedd photo)

Using AT (alpine touring) gear, we alternated  runs to the bottom where the ‘cat met us and took us back up with partial runs where we put skins on and glided back up to cover more of a particularly lovely glade area. If you haven’t tried AT, you’re missing a treat. Downhill, you have the control of traditional downhill skis/boots/bindings. Uphill, you have the ability to ski the kind of areas that most of us associate with Telemark. Remarkably, climbing back uphill on these boards is in many ways easier than snowshoeing;  length and width gives floatation to stay on top of the snow, the skins give great grip, and when you hit an area that’s flat or slightly downhill for a bit, they glide in perfect control, faster than any snowshoes. With ski manufacturers finally figuring out the wide shaped ski equation, AT gear is not  an unreasonable option for a skier who mostly uses lift-serviced slopes day in/day out. You then have the option to take advantage of an operation like this, or getting farther off into the open glade areas at ski resorts, where there’s no easy return to the lift without climbing. Either way, for a skier who wants something close to lift-serviced, but relishes a different challenge and gorgeous powder, this is a truly unique opportunity!

Even with the near constant snow, the views were still breathtaking; no wonder Susan is smiling! (David Shedd photo)

Susan, being relatively new to alpine skiing, wisely decided to pass on this adventure, and instead went out snowshoeing with a group in the same area we were skiing (which led to a whole bunch of shouting and echoing when we saw each other on nearby peaks!).  She, too, had a ball; by taking advantage of Ski Chic-Choc’s cats, her group was able to start much higher and cover much more terrain than if they’d had to climb from the lodge.  Even though the views were limited by the constant snow, winds would suddenly open a view to a mountain, or into a valley, giving them a constant sense of anticipation of what might happen next.  Having a guide from Ski Chic-Chocs meant freedom to focus on what was around them without worrying about where they were going, a very agreeable luxury!

By the end of the day, we were ready for another night of relaxation at the Gîte, more great food and companionship, and an early bedtime, knowing that we had an early morning ahead of us…we were headed DEEPER into the wilds of the Gaspésie!

Snow, mountains...and one lone building, in the middle of nowhere. That's the Auberge de Montagne des Chic Chocs! (David Shedd photo)

There’s a politically incorrect phrase heard often south of the Canadian border: “those crazy Frenchmen.” But, without in any way making that a negative, they HAD to be wonderfully, magnificently crazy to build the Auberge de Montagne des Chic-Chocs. Nobody remotely sane would build a four-star hotel at the TOP of a mountain that you can’t reach in the winter. Okay, maybe not at the top of the mountain, exactly…there ARE higher peaks in the area. But, the “base lodge” is at over 2000 feet…and you ski DOWN from there. Did I say you can’t reach it in the winter?  Okay, I lied. You can.  But only by THEIR custom, deluxe, converted van snowcats. Very comfy…which is a bloody good thing, since it’s 40 kilometers to the lodge from the last place you can take something with wheels. On, of course, a serpentine road that hugs the mountainside, crosses stunning rivers flowing through mountain valleys…you get the picture. The ride itself is a treat, making you wonder…can the lodge really live up to the buildup? Worry not…it’s as stunning as the scenery, and as unexpected.

Karhu was ahead of their time with the Meta Ski; they're fun, rare, and the Auberge has a fleet of them for your enjoyment! (Susan Marean Shedd photo)

I wish we could say that we paid full attention to the introduction that Guy Laroche, the manager of the Auberge, gave us when we arrived. He did his best, letting us know that surprising variety of amenities offered (being hedonists at heart, we DID pay attention to where the outdoor hot tub was), the great array of equipment for our use. With great patience, he even got us to pay enough attention to know where our room was and be able to head there and store our luggage. But…out the windows, there was SNOW. Not snow, SNOW. We did pay attention to the need for avalanche beacons, and other safety instructions, but details about the lodge itself? Nah. That could wait until after dark.

And, soon after, we were out with a guide and some Karhu Meta Skis. These are real oddballs that, unfortunately, never captured the public’s imagination, possibly because no one really understood them. People thought they were backcountry skis, and by that measure, they’re terrible (although using them with Telemark or AT boots, as opposed to your basic winter boot, dramatically improves their downhill skiing performance). If you think of them as really fast snowshoes, however, they’re a blast! We wound around in the most amazing winter wonderland, up and down; since the skins are built into the ski, there were no delays, no waiting while we put on skins to climb, or took them off to go downhill. The Meta Skis really shine on mixed terrain with rolling hills, and we found plenty of them. As the shadows lengthened, we headed back for the lodge very, very reluctantly.

Huge, multipurpose, and incredibly welcoming, the great room at Auberge du Montagne des Chic Chocs is the center of all eating activitities (Susan Marean Shedd photo)

That really wasn’t fair; the lodge deserves to be fully appreciated.  It would be impressive if it were in a “normal” location; here, where a tent is near luxury, it’s fabulous. In particular, the great room, which really is a GREAT room, is noteworthy. It’s a massive open space, punctuated by a 4-sided glass fireplace. Unlike the Gîte, which has separate rooms for bar and dining, this is the “everything” space where you eat, drink, hang out, talk, read, you name it. We found ourselves sort of rotating from space to space over an evening…a warm cup from the superb coffee/espresso/cappucino machine when we came in from an outdoors session, to the bar after a hot tub or nap, then to the long tables for dinner, and over to the cubbies near the windows to talk and share some port after dinner was over. It’s a warm, relaxing space, in keeping with the “casual elegance” theme.

Roughing it? Not likely...this IS Quebec, after all! (David Shedd photo)

Dining follows that same theme; breakfast and lunch are buffet, and dinner is served family style, with large platters of fabulous food (venison with roasted carrots and asparagus, for instance) being passed around. It makes sense, since there isn’t a pool of neighborhood talent to call on for wait staff; yes, your server WAS your backcountry guide a few hours before. Guy even doubles as wine steward, and will happily recommend a perfect match for your dinner from his latest selection of “finds.” Don’t worry about going hungry…there’s PLENTY of food (and there’s always something hanging around to eat when you come in from a long ski and are hungry enough to eat your own arm). Basically, this is “roughing it” only if you’re a Ritz Carlton Platinum Elite member.

But even the Ritz can’t give you the profound silence that comes with being this far from anywhere. About the only thing that can disturb your night’s sleep is wind, and we didn’t have enough to notice. Talk about waking refreshed…and excited! Backcountry skiing was on the agenda, and a look out the window showed us that our tracks from yesterday had utterly disappeared. I’m afraid we didn’t give breakfast the attention it deserved; we were too wound up and wanted to be sure we were totally prepared when our groups were ready to go. The guides broke us up into two groups; Susan went out to explore some gentler glades with several other people who didn’t have much backcountry experience. I swallowed the lump in my throat and went out with the REAL lunatics. The group included Steve Gorman, a longtime backcountry telemark fanatic, Rob Story, a Telluride native and an writer for “Powder Magazine” and others, and our host Guy, who lives/works there for the simple reason that he can ski out his back door all the time. And, we literally went out the back door, skiing directly from the parking lot down through thigh-deep powder to Chute Hélène, a waterfall famous in that area. I wasn’t anywhere near  in the league of the other skiers in the group, but they were kind enough to stop halfway down to let me catch up. On the first run, I pulled up next to Rob and said “Whaddya think?”  He said only one word…”Epic!” There you have it; a Western native skier, describing Eastern natural powder as “epic.” I looked at the sky…no signs of gathering clouds or massive lightning bolts. Still, I was happy when Rob skied away from me; who knew when the sky was going to fall???

Even if the skiing hadn't been fantastic, it would have been worth the trip just to see Chute Helene, magnificent in its frozen state (David Shedd photo)

It wasn’t just the skiing that was epic, though. When we reached the bottom and put on our skins, it was a short glide to Chute Hélène…and we were more than rewarded for the effort. Stunning even in its frozen state, Hélène seemingly falls directly from the sky down a cliff. A stop on the International Appalachian Trail, it’s hard to imagine how extraordinary it must be in late spring, with massive amounts of snowmelt churning down. Clearly, we need to go back when the snow is gone!

But for now…back up the mountain for another run. One of the great advantages of skiing AT in a group, besides the shared fun and increased safety, is taking turns breaking trail on the climb back up. Trust me, it’s a real workout whether you’re on the front or the back of the line; strip down to light layers, or you’ll sweat until you regret it! It makes for great skiing, though; you’re warm, your legs are loose and energized when you reach the top, so you have great flow on the way down again. Want to know how much fun the skiing really was? Take a look at this video of us having a ball!

In the other group, Susan was having as much fun as we were. After learning mostly on hard, scratchy resort snow, playing in the powder came naturally to her. By the end of her session, she was wishing she’d gotten to come out and play with us. She’d gotten great tips from her guide, and had followed the cardinal rule of glades: Look at the SNOW, not the trees! One of the most important things she’d found out, in fact, is that there’s a lot more snow than you’d expect.  Looking down at a backcountry glade, it can appear utterly impenetrable; but, when you ski down to it, you suddenly find that there’s a lot more space between the trees than it looks from above.  What had seemed scary to her as she headed out had become FUN!  When we met up for lunch, she was glowing and laughing. Truly, can you ask more from a morning of skiing than that?

Views that would make Ansel Adams weep are part of the charm of the Chic-Chocs (David Shedd photo)

After lunch, Steve and Rob and some of the other hard-core types headed back onto the slopes, but we wanted to explore, so we grabbed snowshoes and headed out. The Auberge has well-marked trails to follow; even though snow had filled in any signs of them, the tree markings made it easy. We explores a quick hour or two loop from the lodge called the Bucher; after wandering through moose heaven for a while, you come out onto an edge with unbelievable views of Mont Nicol-Albert, among others. The strange constant snow we’d been having was finally starting to calm itself down, and with the sun forcing its way through the clouds, the effects were like something out of an Ansel Adams print. We’ve probably seen views AS beautiful, but I doubt we’ve ever seen anything MORE beautiful.

Back at the lodge, we were in time to catch a quick nap, a soak in the outdoor hot tub, and then to the great room for a drink before dinner. The mood  was as light and happy as any we’ve ever seen; it had been a perfect day, with enough effort to have earned our magnificent meal, stunning scenery, and a sense that we’d participated in something truly unusual and very special. Dinner flowed into some vintage port as we all sat and chatted in the lounge area; we knew we had to leave in the morning, and didn’t want to let it end.

Riding out in the snowcat produced constantly changing, stunning views (David Shedd photo)

Alas, morning brought packing up and heading out, yet even that was a true joy. The sun had finally broken through, giving us a brilliant morning to take a snowcat ride out to the “real world”. The moose were cooperative, and we saw several groups of them when we could tear our eyes away from the mountains.  Too soon, we reached the cars, and headed out on the long trip back to Quebec City. It was a strange transition…seeing houses, cars, normal signs of civilized life was disorienting after spending time in such splendid isolation. In some ways, the long drive was a boon, as it gave us all time to gently come back to what we tend to think of as “normal” life.

And back to our regular lives we went…subtly changed. I started looking for an AT ski setup, Susan asked for Meta skis for Christmas (sadly, an unfulfilled wish, as they’re no longer made and are very hard to find), and we know we’ll be heeding the call of the Gaspésie and heading up again, both in summer and winter. Be forewarned ..if you take a trip up, you may find it addicting. Like us, you may realize that you’re randomly looking at weather forecasts for Cap Chat, wondering how much snow THEY’RE getting!

Manoir des Sables in Orford, Quebec, with Mont Orford in view. (Hotels Villegias photo)

Ever wish you could visit Europe without all the expense, airline hassles and travel time? Why not consider the Eastern Townships (Cantons-de-l’Est) region in Quebec? It’s got the European flair, magnificent scenery, the best cuisine you can sink your teeth into, AND almost any type of active outdoor recreation opportunity your heart desires.

We always plan our Eastern Township vacations through Tourism Eastern Townships. The venues and activities they suggest keep us yearning to return. This is a French-speaking Province, but don’t worry an instant about not speaking French yourself. Virtually everyone up here speaks at least some English and most written materials are in both English and French. It really makes you feel like you are a world away from home to hear the musical French language being spoken around you, but everyone happily switches to English when the need arises.

Bundled for a cold, blue-sky morning on the slopes of the Eastern Townships. (Nadya Baron/Mont Sutton photo)

My husband Tim (Eastern Slopes Founder and Executive Editor) and I have spent many happy days touring The Eastern Townships on our tandem bike. We even chose this option for our October honeymoon. A memory to treasure for a lifetime! But we’re not satisfied with treasuring old memories. We return as often as possible to make new ones.

We’ve discovered there’s always a reason to come to the Eastern Townships: cycling on la Route Verte (the Green Route) a system of marked roadside rides and dedicated bike paths which crisscross the region, zip lines and aerial adventures, Nordic skiing, Alpine skiing, canoeing, kayaking, inn-to-inn biking (they move your luggage!), trail biking…. and always a wonderful place to stay (often with a spa!) and a wonderful place to eat at the end of each day.

On our latest trip, we focused on Alpine skiing, visiting three of the four major ski resorts in the Townships.

Night 1:  Traveler’s Rest

Here’s my first tip for a great vacation: If at all possible, leave right after work, even if you can’t drive all the way that first evening. This adds to your anticipation and excitement on your final workday, makes your vacation seem to last a bit longer and gets you to your destination sooner the next morning. After a 12-hour work day, I couldn’t face a 3.5-hour drive from our home near Concord, New Hampshire to reach the Eastern Townships on the first night. So we drove to St. Johnsbury, Vermont  and checked into The Comfort Inn & Suites, which offers great ski-and-stay packages to four nearby mountains Cannon, Burke,  Bretton Woods, and Jay Peak so it was buzzing with excitement on this Friday evening. The room was comfortable, they provide a free breakfast (complete with do-it-yourself waffles. Kids seemed to be enjoying them!) and in the morning we were just 90 minutes from our first destination in The Eastern Townships: Mont Orford.

Mont Orford

I just loved the empty trails and groomed, soft, all-natural snow at Mont Alfred Desrochers, one of the three peaks of Mont Orford ski resort. (Tim Jones photo)

At Mont-Orford, we were delighted to meet Lloyd Langlois, winner of two Olympic medals., who was busy greeting people as he organizied the day’s events. As a member of Canada’s National Freestyle Ski Team, from 1984 until his retirement in 1997, Langlois won 47 World Cup Gold or Silver medals.

Langlois introduced us to mountain guide, Camille (a male name in French), who decided to ski with us for the morning so we wouldn’t miss any of the mountain. Yes, people are THAT friendly in the Eastern Townships.

Mont Orford is actually three different mountains: Orford, Giroux and Alfred-Desrochers. Although the area is geared very much toward the black diamond skier, I was glad to discover  there’s something for everyone here.

We all like different things (that’s what makes life so much fun!), and for me, that morning, it was Mont Alfred-Desrochers. Sporting only natural snow, this mountain was a buttery-soft, skier’s dream-come-true. Since Mother Nature has been so generous with us this year, Mont Alfred was awash with the white stuff, and reminded me of some of the gentler parts of Mad River Glen, another mountain that goes au naturel. Having never seen any man-made snow, and very little skier traffic, Mont Alfred doesn’t even know the meaning of “hard pack” or “frozen granular,” let alone “ice”!

Since this was “just” an intermediate mountain, Tim and Camille soon abandoned me for more challenging terrain. They had a great time on the expert trails. Tim and I eventually met up back at the lodge and had a late lunch. Who would guess a ski area would serve pan-seared trout, spring greens, sautéed vegetables and broccoli soup for lunch? As a nutrition counselor by profession, I was ecstatic! Everything tasted wonderful and I still felt great about my food choices – on vacation no less! But more about that later…

The outdoor spa at Manoir des Sables had a Finnish-style sauna, a cold plunge pool and this huge hot tub to relax in. (Tim Jones photo)

Manoir des Sables Hotel & Golf

Less than 10 minutes away from Mont Orford, we checked into our resort, Manoir des Sables. This company has two resorts in The Eastern Townships. The other is nearby Hotel Cheribourg.

The Manoir des Sables has luxurious rooms and suites with views of Mont Orford, a 27-hole golf course (now covered with snow, of course) and a private lake. We heard through the grapevine that Nicole Kidman and Angelina Jolie recently stayed here. Of course they were in the luxury suite section of the hotel. Hard to believe it could get better than our gorgeous room.

The inside spa at Manoir des Sables had a wonderful steamroom and these saltwater Jacuzzi baths. (Tim Jones photo)

We treated ourselves to a spa experience (highly recommended and not soon forgotten after a long day of skiing). We began with a multi-jet shower followed by a Eucalyptus steam bath, then progressed to a saltwater indoor Jacuzzi, cold water Nordic bath (outdoors in 20-degree weather!), hot outdoor Nordic bath and Finnish sauna. This makes your skin feel as smooth as a baby’s and all the stress (from that four letter word called WORK) gets eased away. What a relaxing feeling… right in time for dinner in their lovely dining room, Les Jardins.

Even the appetizers are likely to be a work of art at a restaurant like Les Jardins at the Manoir des Sables. (Hotels Villegia photo)

Dining out is always an interesting, but fun, challenge for me. Since I’m a nutrition counselor, I’m a strong believer in practicing what I preach. So my goal is to choose food that tastes great, but is also good for my health and weight management. That was not even a challenge at Les Jardins (or at Mont Orford). When they make “cream of broccoli soup” up here, it’s a tasty blend of broccoli, rich broth, spices and a bit of potato whipped in, to thicken the soup. There is no “cream.” It was no hardship having this dish at both lunch and dinner today.

The dining room was lovely and peaceful, allowing quiet, private conversation. I had walleye with lobster sauce. It looked like a piece of artwork on the plate, with a balsamic vinegar reduction swirled around the edges. The meal was rich with fresh vegetables, some of which were new to me, but all of which I enjoyed immensely. The lobster sauce was just enough to add flavor, but not so much that it drowned the fish or packed in the calories. The basmati rice was the size of a golf ball, a healthy portion, sized to let you know it’s there, but not enough to overwhelm.

Tim had a lean beefsteak with mango chutney and the same sides. For dessert we both ordered the fresh fruit cup, which tasted like each fruit had just been picked. We both left the table feeling very satisfied but not stuffed. Outstanding!

Mont Sutton

That's me, happily skiing in the trees at Mont Sutton. (Tim Jones photo)

The next day was skiing at Mont Sutton, one of Quebec’s major ski areas, boasting 53 trails, 40 percent of which are glades, a tally unrivaled at any other Canadian ski resort. Anyone who’s skied with me is now thinking, “GLADES? Marilyn skied glades?!?”  Yes, I did, and enjoyed every minute. If you want to make the same claim, come to Sutton and you will do it too, regardless of your skiing prowess.

I needed education on a new definition of “glades” (otherwise, I would have chickened out!) At Sutton, skiing glades does not refer to “skiing in the woods” (Yikes, I’m not ready for that!). Rather, these are trails of various widths, curving through pristine woods. They have glades here for all levels, including beginners.

The intermediate level glades were about 15 to 30 feet wide, meandering through the woods. Clumps of trees are spaced 5 to 10 feet apart and you experience a tremendous sense of achievement as you ski around them like an expert. If you’ve ever skied and loved the trail “Sleeper” at Sugarbush in Vermont, imagine having your choice of dozens of similar trails, all at one mountain!

There’s even a trail specifically intended for teaching very small children to ski glades. The trees have pictures of butterflies and robins and there’s  a life-size teepee that you can ski right through (adults need to duck a little, which makes it even more fun for us), all to distract the kids from the fact they’re trying something new.

The Auberge des Appalaches is a cozy, warm and welcoming spot, just down the hill from Mont Sutton. And, they serve wonderful food (no great surprise in the Eastern Townships). (Auberge des Appalaches photo)

Auberge des Appalaches

Our oasis for the night, dinner and breakfast was the Auberge des Appalaches, just minutes from Sutton ski area. This is a quaint old inn with reasonable rates, a friendly atmosphere, owned by a young couple, Patricia Gerard and John Kostiuk.

Dinner began with mushroom and fennel soup, with an earthy flavor that will make you wish for another generous bowl. But the main dish was on its way… We also enjoyed a local red wine “Baco,” from winemaker Léon Courville of Domaine Les Brome (www.domainelesbrome.com). You may have heard that Quebec’s white wines are excellent, but that you can’t find a good red. Wrong!

The peppered pork tenderloin with sautéed shredded savoy cabbage and a small potato pancake, all accompanied by a Calvados apple sauce was excellent. Tim went for comfort food: Flank steak in barbeque sauce with baked beans and spinach. We both passed on dessert and headed off for bed, comfortably satisfied.

John seeks out the finest of ingredients for all his meals. The bacon he prepared the next morning was phenomenal. This was the highest quality, leanest, least salty bacon ever! Most bacon is at least 60% fat. This was like eating a lean piece of meat, but tasted like wonderful bacon. Who says you need all that fat and salt?

Wherever you go at Owl's Head, Lake Memphremagog is always part of the view. (Tim Jones photos)

Owl’s Head

Owl’s Head has stunning Lake Memphremagog at its base. As you ski down the trails, the views of the lake are exquisite! At times, you’ll feel like you are going to ski right out onto the ice. The experience is reminiscent of Le Massif, another wonderful ski area about an hour beyond Quebec City. There the trails appear to drop directly into the St. Lawrence River.

I quickly found my favorite Owl’s Head trail: Lake View. Although most of the trails here have the lake view, this trail is a long, winding “navy blue cruiser”. I use “navy blue” to describe trails that are a couple of steps more challenging than a blue square but not quite steep enough to be a genuine black. But if you want true black diamond trails, you’ll find them here too, and Tim tells me they were great fun.

Owl’s Head is considered a family mountain, but you’d never know it the days we skied there. On Monday and Tuesday, things are pretty quiet. Families must feel really comfortable here since there’s one base area. You won’t lose track of your kids here and there’s plenty of terrain for them to enjoy. We ate some hearty and wonderful homemade bean soup and chili for lunch–both days (yes, it was that good!)

You could relax in an outdoor hot tub after a steambath or sauna and an invigorating dip in the freezing riiver. (Spa des Chutes de Bolton photo)

Spa des Chutes de Bolton

We enjoyed the first spa experience of our trip so much, it was an easy decision to splurge for another. Spa des Chutes de Bolton is located at the foot of the falls of the Missisquoi River in Bolton-Est and makes for a perfect blend of nature, body and spirit. The falls are a mesmerizing sight. Don’t miss the photos on their website. Better yet, come and experience this for yourself!

There was only a little less snow around when we jumped into this river! The temperature was 20 degrees. (Spa des Chutes de Bolton photo)

The starting point of your spa treatment is an outdoor hot tub, followed by the steam room or sauna until you are heated to the point of no return. Then, get this: you run outside and jump into the river (the outside temperature is 20 degrees today; the river of course, isn’t frozen–quite!). From the icy river, you scamper back into a heated outdoor pool to just relax. Then, you do it all over again and end with basking in a yurt, complete with wood stove and magazines. Having followed all of these steps twice, you are limp and totally relaxed. For us, this means time to check into our B&B and have dinner.

This was our bedroom at L'Iris Bleu. Every detail was perfect. (L'IrisBleu photo)

L’Iris Bleu B&B

This B&B was a sight to behold. L’Iris Bleu B&B could have been straight out of a decorating magazine, charming, warm and inviting. And I did I say beautiful? Well, I’ll say it again anyway. It was gorgeous! Each guest room, in addition to all the common areas, was decorated with impeccable taste, comfortable and a place you could just chill. Tim’s question to the owner, Madame Ginette Breton: “Can we live here?”

Lest you think the décor couldn’t be surpassed, you haven’t yet heard about the food! Any time you walk into a kitchen and see a stack of Gourmet magazines, you can’t help but think it’s going to be quite a culinary experience. That was the ultimate in understatement here. (Go to the site and click on cuisine for an excellent description of this gastronomic experience.)

Our dinner began with soup, something they do so well here in the Eastern Townships. Mine was a velvety smooth tomato herb. Madame Breton freezes plump ripe summer tomatoes whole and uses them all year. It’s constantly amazing how the soups in Quebec can be so flavorful, with the freshest ingredients, yet so good for you. Tim had the scallop soup, made from a rich seafood broth, fresh herbs (plucked straight from her solarium), a variety of vegetables and just a hint of cream.

The salad continued the theme of ultimate freshness and originality. Not your usual salad. Each section of the plate contained a different tantalizing item: fresh tomatoes brought in from a Montreal hothouse that you would bet were just picked outside the kitchen door, lima beans marinated in cumin, paprika, oil and just a hint of hot pepper sauce, baby arugula and oil-cured olives.

We both chose the lean pot roast au jus, just bursting with the flavor of fresh herbs, accompanied by a small mound of mashed baby potatoes on a bed of sautéed kale, with the freshest of tiny brussel sprouts cooked to perfection on the side.

Dessert was a choice of fresh grapes soaked in Grand Marnier or flourless chocolate cake made with ground almonds. The cake had just a kiss of sweetness, allowing the rich, sumptuous taste of the chocolate to dominate.

Au Revoir Eastern Townships

If you come to The Eastern Townships, you too will be filled with wonder and appreciation for such a magical place. And now, with an incredible amount of reluctance, we leave the friendly fantasyland we’ve come to treasure as almost a second home. Au revoir Cantons-de-l’Est. We’ll grab our tandem bike and be back as soon as the snow melts!

Postscript: Notes From A Nutrition Counselor

Let me say a few words about the dining experience in The Eastern Townships. We Americans can learn a lot by dining out here. The portions are smaller and the food much more flavorful, less salty. Of course you can always find ways to overeat anywhere, but the goal here is to enjoy the beautiful appearance of the food on the plate, to savor the exquisite flavors, to nourish your body, and to be content and satisfied. It’s not necessary to overeat because the food is so flavorful and so fulfilling.

You are served smaller portions but you quickly adjust to the way your body wants to be fed. We Americans eat much too much food. We all need to keep in mind what they know in the Eastern Townships: the next meal will be along soon enough and will undoubtedly be another masterpiece, well worth waiting for.

We always get a lot of exercise while we are in the Eastern Townships, and exercise needs fuel. Another trick we use to avoid overeating at meals is drinking a protein shake mid-morning and, sometimes, mid-afternoon as well. This delivers a protein shot to prevent excessive hunger (which often leads to poor food choices and overeating) and also provides a chocolate (or vanilla) fix that might allow you to forego dessert more often. Try it.

Pat and I traveled  early in the morning of January 8, 2011, to Fairlee, Vermont on snowy roads. We chatted in the warm car cocoon, primed with a good feeling about the weekend’s activities awaiting us. Turns out it was a wonderful weekend, as Pat tells you here.

The long blades with rounded fronts on Nordic Ice Skates make gliding over uneven ice easy and the simple binding system turns nordic boots into an ice blade. (Barbara Thomke photo)

First on the agenda was Nordic Skating.  Nordic what?  You heard it right – a kind of long distance skating on natural ice. This nifty sport started in Sweden in the old days and has found its advocates in Europe, Canada and now New England. Jamie Hess is the ringleader in Vermont and owns a shop in Norwich called, appropriately, Nordic Skater. We met him at the Lake Morey Resort that is beautifully situated on the water’s edge. He explained about the 17″ steel blades that give you stability on the ice, the widely curved tips that lift you up and over uneven ice surfaces (unlike conventional figure skates or hockey skates that grab in these conditions), and the warm, supportive cross-country ski boots. Nordic Skating, otherwise  known as “Wild Skating” or “Tour Skating” lets you explore places you normally see only by boat in the summer.

As Jamie talked, Pat and I sat lacing a pair of Nordic ski boots to our feet. Then we stepped outside to a bench on the lake and locked our boots into the bindings on the blades.  Soooo easy!

We stood up . . . shakily. . . and grinned at each other. We struggled to find our balance. It was too long since we had skated! With baby steps we reached the cleared track on the lake. Then bit by bit we developed a skating rhythm that is similar to cross-country skate-skiing. It felt soooo good!

The wind whipped sharply into our faces so we opted for the 2.5 mile trail rather than the 4.5 mile one that circles the entire lake. The Lake Morey Resort together with the Upper Valley Trails Alliance and the Hulbert Outdoor Center maintain the skating trail with various special equipment and the trail is the longest one in the United States! As it smoothed out we opened up our pace and glided along.

After 15 minutes of practice on Nordic Skates, you, too, could be swishing confidently around Lake Morey on the 4.5 mile trail. (Pat Lyon-Surrey photo).

Back on the bench in front of the Resort we clicked out of the blades and headed towards the Inn, passing a couple of smaller rinks where kids were playing ice hockey and a broom ball session was just forming. Guests staying overnight at the Inn receive complimentary use of skates for up to three hours daily. Anyone may stop by to rent nordic skates, hockey and figure skates at the Skate Shack. You can check ice conditions on the Lake Morey Resort website.

Room with a view! We could see people enjoying the ice from our comfy room at the Lake Morey Resort. (Barbara Thomke photo)

Although it was still forenoon we checked into our spacious and handsomely decorated room at the Inn overlooking the lake. Small figures dotted the nordic skating trail while the hills around the lake stood solidly, white. The scene reminded Pat and me of The Mountain Top Inn near Rutland, VT, another lovely inn with a similar view where we had enjoyed swimming, kayaking and horseback riding during the summer. You can read about our adventures here.

The Mountain Top Inn also offers cross-country skiing, though  the Lake Morey Inn is the place to go for Nordic Skating. Other locations for nordic skating could be the lake nearest you, a frozen river, in Quebec or on the canals in Ottawa, Canada. Many are the destination options, and I can see how easily you can become addicted to this fun new sport!

Biking in Parc national de la Pointe Taillon on the first day of our Quebec adventure. (Tim Jones photo)

My sweetheart Marilyn already gave you her view from the Stoker’s seat of our recent biking holiday in Quebec. Here’s my side of the story:

Day One

Greetings from Peribonka! My sweetheart Marilyn and I ate a marvelous dinner (pork-and-venison pie for me!) and are resting our bike-wearied bodies on very comfortable bed in a cheery yellow room in the Aubergite au petit Bonheur. We pedaled our tandem bicycle 63 kilometers (39 miles) today with our new friend Lysane Fortin. Lysane’s gone home (probably to rest, too; I think we wore her out . . . ). We have only about 200 kilometers to go, and four more days to do it!

In case you don’t know where Peribonka is, get a map and follow along. First, drive north and cross the border into Canada (don’t forget your passport!), then head northeast to Quebec City, Quebec. At Quebec City, you’ll turn due north on Route 175 and drive an hour or so through some of the emptiest country you can imagine, some of it along the eastern edge of the Parc National de la Jacques Cartier. Then, in the middle of nowhere, you’ll bang a sudden left onto Route 169 and drive through even emptier country until you arrive in bustling Alma not far from the shores of Lac St. Jean, which is ultimately  the source of the Saguenay River. Peribonka is on the north shore of the lake, beyond Alma at the mouth of the Peribonka River. . .

Got that? Sounds like it’s a long way, but it really isn’t. It’s a day’s drive from New York City . . . and worth every mile (or kilometer once you cross into Canada).

After our  drive, we spent our first night in Alma in the Hôtel Universel in a very nice room with a gorgeous view overlooking a river in Alma. Great dinner (outstanding food is everywhere in Quebec!), friendly service, good, hearty  breakfast, and reasonable prices, especially on weekends (this was Labor Day, or, more precisely “Labour Day” in Canada, too.)

This morning, Tuesday, we handed over our luggage to Navette Véloroute, a reliable courier service which will deliver our bags to our lodging each night, locked our car at the Maison de Véloroute, and pedaled away (under sunny skies!) on the 256-kilometer Véloroute des Bleuets, (the Bicycle Route of the Blueberries) which circumnavigates Lac St. Jean. This is one of the most popular bike routes in Quebec, and now we know why.

We won’t see our car again for five days. If the next four days are as good as the first, we won’t miss it at all . . .

We started with a few kilometers of biking through the residential areas of Alma, then found ourselves on a short stretch of highway with wide shoulders to bike on. Huge farm fields on either side opened expansive views away to a ring of low mountains on the horizon. This is beautiful country!

The Veloroute is well-marked at every intersection with big white symbols painted on the path. You really can’t miss it. Sometimes the route is on quiet roads, at other times on the sides of Highway 169, the major road in this region. Much of it (more every year, apparently) is on  beautiful paved paths made just for biking.

Biking the beautiful boardwalk in Sainte Monique. (Lysane Fortin photo)

The highlight of today was the time we spent in Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon. The park is located on a delta of sand (beautiful beach, warm water!) which juts 20 kilometers out into the lake. The sand was carried here by the glaciers and the Peribonka River. Think Cape Cod in miniature, with fresh water, no tides, and lots of moose.

We ate a hearty soup-and-salad lunch at the visitor center, where we spent some time enjoying the displays which show the history of the park. Then we climbed back on the bike to finish our ride. The terrain was mostly flat, with a hard-surfaced stone-dust path (great riding!) through the  lovely, quiet pine and aspen forests, with expansive views of water and wetland. Bikes are the only mode of transport allowed on park roads (they rent bikes and even bike trailers for your camping gear). There are four camping areas with over a hundred tent sites and some marvelous “tent cabins” where all you need to bring is food and a sleeping bag. These campsites are very busy through the summer, but on this day-after-Labour-Day, we didn’t see a single camper, and only four other cyclists on the 14 kilometers we rode inside the park. A day earlier, we could have ridden more in the park and taken a bike ferry across to Peribonka, but we would have missed some lovely riding.

First days are often tough, and this northern end of the lake has the “hilliest” terrain. But our ride seemed easy–in  40 miles today, we did less climbing than in either direction of the 5-mile ride from our house to the post office. Tomorrow morning, we’ll jump on the bike and ride 53 kilometers to a housekeeping chalet rented to tourists by the town of Albanel.

The only photos we took on Day 2 were from the (relatively) dry shelter overlooking the falls at Ste Jean D'Arc. These little roofed strucures with pinic tables are scattered at regular intervals along the route. (Tim Jones photo)

Day 2:

We awoke this morning to wind-driven rain slashing at the windows of the Aubergite. When we go bike touring, we expect rain, prepare for it, and enjoy ourselves anyway—no grumbling allowed! But we did linger for a second pot of hot tea (after a marvelous cheese and ham soufflé for breakfast) before heading out into the deluge. And I do mean deluge. We have stayed drier if we’d been swimming in the lake.

The village of Albanel, 53 kilometers away, was our destination for the day., We had rented a housekeeping chalet in the municipal camping park (418-279-3374). Roadside camping parks are very popular in Quebec and these little cottages are ubiquitous, cheap and fun if you don’t have your own RV.

The rain continued and each kilometer we pedaled got just a little wetter and a little chillier. Some of the Véloroute was on the main road, where the shoulders were wide enough that we didn’t get splashed by passing cars. More was on quiet country roads where there wasn’t any traffic to splash us. Another section was a paved path just for bikes that wound through miles of spruce forest, lovely even in the pouring rain. We stopped for a snack and a quick photo of the falls at a little path-side shelter in Ste. Jeanne D’Arc, but mostly, we just pedaled in the driving rain.

By the time we hit Albanel we were ready to get out of the rain. A little local grocery store supplied the makings for a stay-in dinner so we wouldn’t have to go back out in the pouring rain to ride to a restaurant. The chalet was brand-new, spotless and VERY comfy/cozy after a long day in the rain. Once inside, we cranked up the heat, hung our wet gear to dry, then luxuriated in hot showers. Wonderful!

Where the buffalo roam (and the humans are caged) at the Zoo sauvage de St Felicien (Tim Jones photo)

Day 3:

On Thursday, it had stopped raining (mostly) and we were off on a flat, fast 36k pedal to the town of St. Félicien where  the marvelous Zoo Sauvage de Sainte Félicien serves as a haven for animals of the circumpolar boreal (northern) forest.

We spent several amazing hours at the Zoo. In this safari-style park, you ride in caged carriages (next year they’ll be pulled by little bio-diesel tractors) through hundreds of acres where a host of northern animals including lots of BIG black bears, whitetail and mule deer, elk, moose, caribou, muskox, wild sheep, foxes and even prairie dogs all roam freely. Only the wolves are kept separated—for obvious reasons. I’ve been fortunate enough to travel often in the boreal wilderness and have seen most of these animals (except the muskox) in the wild, but it was still a treat. Marilyn absolutely loved every minute.

Have you ever seen a muskox up close? Neither had I . . . (Tim Jones photo)

Later, we walked on boardwalks over  large natural enclosures with northern animals from other parts of the world—snow monkeys, Bactrian camels, Amur tigers, grizzly and polar bears . . . the list went on and on. This is a very cool experience, something to look forward to when you are in the area, and well worth driving there to see if you love seeing wildlife.

That night, we stayed in St. Félicien at the Hôtel du Jardin, enjoyed a relaxing soak in the hot tub before a lovely dinner focused on local specialties. Don’t miss the blueberry pie—this is, after all the Véloroute des Bleuets!

Day 4:

Sun pouring through the window of our hotel room woke us early and we quickly rode out into a glorious early-fall day. The 51 kilometers, which simply flew by, brought us back by the lake and spectacular views as we pedaled through both Sainte Prime and the Native community of Mashteuitash. We were too early to visit their respective Perron Cheese Museum and Native Museum, but stopped in the lovely town of Robertval to watch seaplanes take off and land.

The ghost town houses at Val Jalbert stirred memories for me of the mill housing my parents were born in. (Tim Jones photo)

That afternoon we toured Val Jalbert, Quebec’s version of an old-west ghost town. Val Jalbert, a paper-mill company town abandoned in the 1920s is being resurrected as a tourist attraction and living museum.

This abandoned mill town is in a beautiful setting beneath a spectacular waterfall. You can sleep in comfortable, modern rooms, eat in the old mill building, watch performances (in French) and multi-media presentations (in French or English).

On a very personal note, my grandfathers both worked in mills much like this at about the same time Val Jalbert was built and both my parents were born in mill-town houses, so the experience really hit home for me. Take some time here to imagine what it would have been like to live and work in a place like this . . . It’s a wonderful bit of living history.

Day 5: early

The overlook at the top of Val Jalbert Falls is well worth the 754-step climb. Taking the gondola is cheating. (Tim Jones photo)

While Marilyn relaxed this morning, I got up early and climbed the 754 steps to the overlook at the top of Val Jalbert Falls. Most people take the cable car up to see the spectacular view, but I needed the exercise–been sitting too much lately (grin). Besides, the cable car wasn’t running this early.

The view is worth the climb (just so you know, taking the cable car is cheating and the view is sweeter if you hike. . .). You can see forever over the lake with the falls tumbling just below you. Don’t miss it. You can also walk a quarter-mile more on a boardwalk for a long view toward another set of falls and rapids up the valley. Again, well worth it. This place is beautiful!

Day 5: later

Whenever you bike along Lac St. Jean you find beautiful views like this one in Robertval. (Tim Jones photo)

Our last day (53k) of pedaling brought us back to Alma. The hills come closer to the lake here and the views are wonderful. We ate lunch in the Microbrasserie du Lac St. Jean right on the Véloroute (don’t worry, they have sampler glasses that won’t make you dangerous on the bike), and finished our tour in a beautiful condo at Dam-en-Terre, a recreational complex with a marina, beaches, live theater, biking, hiking, kayaking, boating and a campground all on the edge of Alma. Dinner that night was a celebratory splurge at the Rose & Basilic in Alma. Great food and wine, don’t miss it!

Pedaling 159 miles in five days was perfect. Just enough exercise each day to get our legs and lungs working properly, some time for sightseeing, eating well and sleeping even better. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out, go pedaling in Quebec, and enjoy!

Trip Planner

A lakeshore monument in the Native community of Mashteuiatsh. Quebec. (Tim Jones photo)

The Véloroute des Bluets offers easy riding, glorious scenery, good food, friendly people. We rode it in five days, could have easily added a sixth day to allow more time to linger along the route. You can, of course, pedal only a part of it . . . It’s open May through mid-October.

Over 250,000 people rode all or part of this magnificent bike route this season. After Labor Day when we rode, it’s very quiet except on weekends–we saw more other cyclists on Saturday than we had all week.. But in the summer, you need to plan well ahead to get the accommodations you want. As with any visit to Quebec, start with Quebec Tourism. The Véloroute website will help you with your planning, as will Tourisme Saguenay/Lac St. Jean and Tourisme Alma. Bonne route!

Veloroute Overview

Strong bikers on fast road bikes could easily ride the entire Veloroute des Bleuets in two days (some people have done it in one, but what did they see?). The roads and paths are mostly smooth enough for fast riding and there aren’t any hills (at least not to someone used to riding in New England).

My recommendation: take your time and savor the experience. Ride a comfy touring hybrid, take some time to stop and enjoy the views, take a swim if the weather’s warm, visit some of the attractions along the way.

We were riding mid-week after Labour Day, which means kids are back in school, the Veloroute is almost deserted, and some of the main “attractions” are closed. One day, for example, we passed the Musée Louis Hemon dedicated to the author of the book Maria Chapdelaine, which is set in this region, but it was closed. We might have stopped . . .

Bonjour Quebec!

The spectacular falls at Val Jalbert. (Tim Jones photo)

In many ways, the Véloroute des Bleuets  is like a cycling vacation in Europe that you can drive-to in a few hours. The food is better than most you’ll find in the US, the houses all look very different, and, of course, everything is in French.

If you don’t speak French, don’t worry. Almost everyone you meet speaks at least some English. Smile, learn to say “bonjour” instead of hello, and you won’t have anything to worry about.

The Saguenay/Lac St. Jean area is a world unto itself, far from the city influences of Montreal and Quebec. Everyone we met was just as friendly and helpful as can be, even if we couldn’t speak their language.

In other words, even if you don’t speak French you’ll get by and have a wonderful vacation.

Our first day on the bike found us on this lakeside boardwalk in Ste. Monique. (Lysane Fortin photo)

What do you feel when you are about to start a challenging outdoor adventure? Excitement and the thrill of anticipation? For me, the anticipation is definitely a giant piece of the pie. Otherwise, I surely wouldn’t undertake the challenge.

But I also have doubts:  “Can I really do this?”… “Does my body have what it takes to perform in this way?”… and, more important: “Can I do this without whining?!”

I bring this up because my husband Tim (Founder and Executive Editor of EasternSlopes.com) and I are heading out for another great adventure. This time it’s 5 days on our tandem bicycle cycling inn-to-inn along the Véloroute des Bleuets around Lac St. Jean,  in the Saguenay/Lac St. Jean region two hours north of Quebec City. Tim has made all the arrangements including having our luggage transferred each night by a baggage service so we can ride with a lighter bike.

Here we are, all geared up to bike in the rain on a recent trip to Cape Cod. (Chez Sven photo)

It seems that any time we take a trip with only our tandem for transportation, we’re rewarded with torrential downpours. Check out Tim’s story on our adventures in Vermont ,  Nova Scotia and Martha’s Vinyard and you’ll get the idea. If you’re using your bike for transportation, and it rains, you have no other options. Regardless of a minor detail like a monsoon, you have to suck it up and get yourself to the next inn.

Besides, you might be surprised to hear this, but cycling in a downpour can actually be fun. When we ride in the rain, our shrieks of laughter can be heard for miles every time a huge truck goes by. Can you picture it? It sure makes you grateful for the hot shower at the end of the day!

This trip we’ll be riding 30-40 miles per day.  If it were all flat, that would be no problem. But if you ride in New England or Canada, you already know  that, with the Cape Cod Rail Trail as a major exception, flat cycling terrain seems like an elusive dream. If you are aware of a great bike trail that’s pretty flat, PLEASE write to me. Hills on a tandem are brutal. All of this is not an issue for Tim. I’m the weak link here (sigh).

The Véloroute website entices you with these words: “The Véloroute looped circuit offers an unrivalled cycling experience perfectly suited to the needs of every bike touring enthusiast!” For me this has been the “excitement and looking forward to the thrill” part. I’m still sitting at home on my couch. You can join me on each leg of the trip. Hopefully we never get to the “whining” part. You can also read the Captain’s side of this ride.

Day One: Just Getting There

Moose were among the roadside scenery on the way north! (Tim Jones photo)

The biggest events of the 8-hour drive were seeing two separate moose. One was a youngster, jogging across the road in northern New Hampshire. The other was a wise old cow, just standing by the highway in Quebec gazing at the passing stream of Labor Day traffic. We also saw a deer, but being from New Hampshire, that was old news to us.

Our destination was the town of Alma, two hours north of Quebec City. After our GPS did a bit of dancing around at the end, we arrived at the newly renovated Hôtel Universel just in time for a nap, hot tub and a fabulous dinner. This was a typical meal in Quebec, where each course comes out slowly, allowing plenty of time to savor each bite, taste each other’s food and laugh…a lot.

Who knew turnip potage (soup) with a bit of honey could taste so wonderful? Tim had the striped bass in a chili-coconut rub with a light teriyaki sauce. I splurged on filet mignon in lemon grass sauce, with baby vegetables. Everything was perfectly prepared, with each plate also a feast for the eyes. Yum!

Good-bye Suburu! Tomorrow we get on the bike and the real work starts.

Day Two: It’s Flat – What A Relief!

This seems as good a time as any to explain the job descriptions on a tandem bike. If you are experienced with tandems, you already know this part. But for anyone who’s thinking about trying tandem cycling (a real plus for 2 cyclists with mis-matched abilities) or if you’re just an interested observer, here’s my take on it.

Tim is the "Captain" and I'm the "Stoker" as we ride along the beautiful beach at Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon (Lysane Fortin photo)

The person in front is the Captain. The Captain’s job is to steer, shift, pedal hard and refrain from hitting any cars, curbs, buildings or people. The Captain is also known to make comments to the person on the back of the bike, using phrases such as, “I need more (pedaling power) from you!” or “Why are you shifting (your body) around?”

The person on the back of the bike is the Stoker (that would be me). The Stoker’s job is to check for traffic and communicate to the Captain, signal the turns using standard hand signals and most importantly, pedal. The Stoker can be heard making comments such as, “I AM pedaling hard.” or “I’m not shifting around, I’m taking off my jacket.”

The Stoker also has some critical ancillary activities. These include, but are not limited to, checking and critiquing flower gardens, spotting eagles, commenting on beautiful houses and looking in shop windows.

So now you’ve had the tutorial on the responsibilities.  Here’s how our first day on the Véloroute went:

Nothing  steep! Hooray! Most of it was flat, with some rolling hills and just a couple of minor “challenging” spots. The route is so well marked, with big bicycles painted in white on the road and signs at every intersection so you can’t possibly lose your way. Best of all, I had zero inclination to whine. How can you whine when life is so wonderful? What a perfect day!

This is a tent? Lysane Fortin and I check out the amenities in a "Tent Chalet" at Parc National de la Pointe-Taillon. Note the two-burner stove and small fridge. The inside is even better! (Tim Jones photo)

This was our longest day: 63 kilometers (about 39 miles). The Véloroute des Bleuets has a wide variety of things to see as you pedal along. You ride by beautiful fields with rolled hay, expansive plots of low-bush blueberries, lush wooded trails by the side of the Lake, and a park (Parc national de la Pointe Taillon) with campsites, a gorgeous beach, tents for rent that have so many amenities you won’t believe you’re camping, picnic tables everywhere and incredible views.

Much of the Véloroute is a dedicated bike path that meanders through charming residential neighborhoods or wooded trails along the water and some is a wide shoulder on moderate thoroughfares. (You’ll never feel threatened by traffic.) There’s so much variety to see and experience that you don’t actually want the day’s ride to end.

Lysane Fortin, a Véloroute representative, accompanied us on our journey today. She had an interesting time trying to keep up with the double horsepower and single wind resistance, of a tandem. She is a delightful young woman and it was great having her with us. She’s not accustomed to riding more than 2 hours per day. She’ll feel it tomorrow!

We arrived at our B&B, Aubergite au petit Bonheur (aupetitbonheur@sympatico.ca) in Peribonka, in plenty of time to relax before a sumptuous dinner, cooked by our innkeeper, Marie Boily Thierry. Her clientele is 80% cyclists. Since we’re here off-season, the beautiful house that sleeps twelve is ours alone.

Marie provided a crusty sense of humor, a cheery bright yellow bedroom with bath & sitting room…..a wonderful place to rest after a long ride. And lest I forget, she also supplied the best apple crumble and blueberry pie that ever followed a generous and delicious dinner! There’s no restaurant in the town of Peribonka so Marie provides the only meal you’ll find. You certainly will not be sorry about that!

Day Three: And The Rains Came!

We took a short respite from the rain in Sainte Jeanne D'Arc, but mostly we just pedaled. (Tim Jones photo)

Am I allowed to say, “I told you so”? I’m sitting up in bed at 6:45 a.m. waiting anxiously for our 8 a.m. breakfast and listening to….you guessed it….a torrential downpour!

Any inn-to-inn cyclist must be prepared for this. It can and will happen. First you need to have your attitude in check. You don’t pout…this is what is. Your best bet is to look at the bright (no pun intended) side. Once a big truck goes by and sprays you till your bike shoes become succulent sponges, you can’t get any wetter. Prepare to laugh every time it happens again.

Next, you need to have rain gear. Warm clothing, a Gortex jacket and rain pants are absolute essentials, as are a helmet cover and gloves. This won’t keep you bone dry, but you’ll be glad you have these items.  We’ve talked of getting some type of covering for our bike shoes, a wonderful thought…too bad it hasn’t yet come to fruition.

And last, be happy you have no car with you. If you did, it would be so easy to bag it and waste the day reading a book or playing games on your computer (You can do that at home!), wailing about your bad luck that it rained on your vacation. No moaning and groaning! We’re looking for adventure, right? More later. Breakfast awaits . . . .

What a wonderful port in the storm! This "Camping Chalet" in Albanel had heat to dry out our soaked gear, hot showers and a soft place to rest our heads. (Tim Jones photo)

Later . . .

The 53 kilometers (33 miles) today felt longer than the 63 yesterday because it did rain – a lot. And as predicted, we laughed it off and kept pedaling with one short stop in the tiny village of Sainte-Jeanne-D’Arc. When you have no car, you just go!

We arrived that afternoon in the town of Albanel totally spent, with ice-cold toes and were delighted to find that our room for the night, a “chalet” in the municipal campground, was beyond our wildest expectations. It was a brand new little house about the size of a one-bedroom apartment. We were most interested in the heat and hot water at first, but the full kitchen and the toasted tuna sandwiches made a good thing even better. We had zero intention of going out in the rain again that day. But why bother? We had every convenience we needed.

Day Four: Wild Animals Roam Free!

Today’s ride (36 kilometers, 22 miles) was a breeze. Cloudy day but no rain, relatively flat terrain and the tandem flew! This got us to St Felicien in plenty of time to spend 4 hours at the amazing Zoo Sauvage.

This mama bear and her 3 big babies ignored us as we hung out to take their photos just feet away. (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

Riding through the natural setting in a caged “train” while wild animals roamed free, almost within touching distance, was truly a unique experience. If you’ve been to other zoos and think you’ve seen it all, think again. They describe the Zoo sauvage as one where “the people are caged and the animals roam free”. If there’s any way you can visit this incredibly unique zoo, do it.

A word about the language. It’s helpful if you have at least a tiny bit of French. My one year of high school French (whatever possessed me to think I needed 3 years of Latin?!) served me well, even though it was a hundred years ago. I was able to read some signs and communicate in a very basic manner.

One funny episode was when we stopped and asked for directions. I asked where the zoo was (“Ou est le Zoo sauvage?”) but understanding the answer given in rapid-fire French was way beyond my ability. Hand signals worked well in this instance. We all had a good laugh about that!

There’s something about having to navigate in a different language (by whatever means you can find) that makes the trip so much more fascinating. Between the two of us, we manage somehow. If the opportunity presented itself to have all of these wonderful adventures, with the same gorgeous setting, in an English-speaking environment, I’d say, “No way!” The language and the culture are an integral part of this experience. If you’re the type of person who likes adventure and a manageable challenge, don’t worry about not speaking French.

Our hotel, Hôtel du Jardin de Saint-Félicien, provided a spacious room complete with sitting area, even a refrigerator for the hard boiled eggs Tim had prepared at the chalet this morning.

Dinner at the hotel was another culinary experience focused on local cuisine. I had the sautéed walleye and Tim had the braised sausage and pork. The ending indulgence for both of us was blueberry pie (after all, this is the Véloroute des Bleuets so how could we refrain from sampling the local specialty?) with vanilla ice cream (of course!).

Day Five: Taller Than Niagra Falls!

This is the breath-taking view by the bench in Robertval where we stopped to eat our picnic lunch. (Tim Jones photo)

The lake (lac Saint-Jean) was our constant companion today as we meandered (53 kilometers, 33 miles) through charming neighborhoods in Saint Prime and the Native community of Mashteuiatsh with a museum that was still closed as we pedaled by early in the morning. Needless to say, the views here are breath-taking and we really enjoyed them and the crisp, sunny day!

The ride was easy, except for one monster of a hill. In the past we would have gotten off and walked (due to my wimpiness), but somehow “we” have progressed beyond needing to do that. This must have something to do with the previously mentioned “no whining” decision.

Taller than Niagra Falls and nestled in the quaint old village of Val Jalbert, this waterfall is both a majestic and calming presence. (Tim Jones photo)

Our destination was the village of Val-Jalbert, where we stayed in one of the newly renovated rooms above a 1920’s general store. Val-Jalbert was once a company town, built and opened in the early 1900′s. In 1927 the pulp mill that fueled the village was no longer financially viable and the village was abandoned. After 19 million dollars of investment to preserve it, the village is a huge source of pride for the locals and is now open to the public.

The highlight here for me was a magnificent waterfall the guide told us is 72 meters (236 feet), which is taller than Niagra Falls. A mesmerizing sight, not to be missed! At this moment Tim is out climbing the 754 steps to the top of it (and then he has to walk down all of them! Notice I’m resting by chatting with you?). You can also take a cable car to the top for a minimal charge.

Our room above the general store is a delightful mix of old and new…in keeping with the 1900’s theme (washbowl sink, walls and woodwork, all modestly white with no frills) but thoroughly modern in terms of comfort and aesthetics (an all-glass shower with several shower heads, a big comfy bed with puffy white comforter).

Day Six: A “WOW!”

Another perfect, crisp, sunny day. We’re finally a bit tired after pedaling over 240 kilometers in the past days. We were SO ready to stop for lunch when the Microbrasserie du Lac St Jean in the town of Saint Gédéon appeared right alongside our route. The panini sandwiches soothed our hunger. If you ask for a taste of the beer, don’t be surprised when they bring out four 6-oz glasses, each of a different kind. We tried them all, but with the road ahead of us, we didn’t dare finish them.

Our stop for the night was at Dam-en-Terre, a resort featuring almost every 4-season outdoor activity you can name. September is the perfect time for foreigners to be here. Apparently, this resort has such a draw during the summer that it’s booked solid with Canadians many months in advance.

We stayed in a lovely 3rd floor condo with an panoramic lake view, expansive windows and vaulted ceilings. We arrived just in time to shower, and rest a bit before dinner at the Rose et Basilic Restaurant in Alma. In this part of Quebec, if a restaurant is top notch, they call it “a WOW!” This definitely qualifies! Tim had the Indian curry chicken with red peppers and I had poached salmon that couldn’t have been any fresher, in an eggplant sauce.

We slept really well this night, our muscles pleasantly humming from all the exercise. There’s nothing like exercise to keep you feeling young, vibrant and able to eat magnificent French food without gaining weight. It will take a few days to calm our appetites down when we get home, but it was all worth it.

Au Revoir Véloroute des Bleuets

This waterfront monument in Mashteuiatsh celebrates the Native heritage of that community. The museum nearby was still closed as we pedaled through early in the morning. (Tim Jones photo)

If you’re a cyclist of any ability, great or miniscule, treat yourself to inn-to-inn cycling on the Véloroute des Bleuets. You will discover a strength and capability you never thought possible. If you’re advanced, just choose inns that are further apart. If you’re a novice, try moving short distances from inn-to-inn, or only do a small part of the Véloroute.

An especially nice part of the trip was having our luggage moved each night by the man we came to affectionately call “Monsieur Le-Baggage.”  He was reliable and on time every day. It sure feels great to come in from a long day on the bike and be able to dress for dinner.  In this part of Quebec, you don’t need to dress up to go out to the upscale restaurants, but if you’re like me and want to, having your luggage moved so you have more options sure is sweet!

Julie Deschênes a representative from Tourisme Alma, Lac Saint-Jean told us her office can custom-tailor the length and difficulty of your trip to suit your needs and preferences.

Come do the Véloroute des Bleuets.  You’ll experience a European flair at a relatively low cost, without getting on an airplane. You will move your body to keep yourself young, eat some wonderful food, view the breath-taking scenery and totally immerse yourself in a different culture. You will truly have traveled far. On the wall in my office hangs a plaque that says: “Life isn’t about waiting out the storm.  It’s about learning to dance in the rain.”  What about you?  Are you dancing?

And not to celebrate with a trip to a museum, or a Broadway show; this required utterly non-intellectual activities.  No thinking, no getting dressed up, nothing other than being in the moment…and abusing her body rather than her mind.  What could possibly be better than mountain biking for that purpose???    

It happens that one of the great Eastern mountain biking venues, Vermont’s Kingdom Trails, is only a few hours away from us.  With 100 miles of trails through gorgeous countryside, there’s terrain there for all riders.  With Susan being relatively new to the MTB scene, it was a perfect place for her to start.  But…we wanted an extended trip to really let her unwind, and the lodging and dining options in the Northeast Kingdom are a bit limited.  Just across the border in Quebec is the area known as the Eastern Townships, which is a hotbed of great food focused on local ingredients; but what about the mountain biking?  It turns out that Mont Gosford, Coaticook Gorge, and SkiBromont all have significant trails available, and are within easy driving distance.  And, to top it all off, word came to us that the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, VT., had just opened a whole new set of trails…and they’re just south of Bromont. Clearly, this was a road trip just waiting to happen!    

So, a few days after graduation, we set off.  First stop, Kingdom Trails.  Now, Susan’s a relative newcomer to mountain biking, which means she’s had less chance to fall off than I have, but also means that trails that are poorly maintained or designed are a real problem for her; the trail has to have “flow” for her to feel comfortable with it.  I’d been to the KT before, so knew that it was a great place for her to start.  With over 100 miles of trails spread across multiple hills and mountains, they’ve got everything there, from wide snowmobile trails to some insanely swoopy trails that accelerate you up and down through gullies.  They also have the advantage that they sit on a huge esker, which is a glacial sand deposit; that means that the trails dry quickly and stay in better shape than they would in wetter areas.  And it turned out to be a good thing, since of course it was raining when we arrived.  Oh, and cold, too, in the mid 40s.  I looked at Susan, but knew what she’d say…one of the things I love about her is her willingness to do really stupid things.  We’d brought raingear, luckily, and it was a great chance for me to test the Red Ledge Free Rein parka that I’ve been beating up for a few months in truly adverse conditions, so onto the trails we went.    

Kingdom Trails' position on an esker means great riding even in the rain! (David Shedd photo)

Great decision, it turned out.  As suspected, the sandy character of the area made the trails much more solid under our tires than would normally be expected in wet Eastern riding. The climb up Darling Hill to get to the trails we were riding is normally just brutal, but in the cold and rain was a boon; it allowed us a nice warmup before we hit the woods.  There’s something silly fun about mountain biking in the rain; you end up wet & muddy instead of sweaty & dusty…in other words, you aren’t any dirtier than normal.  There’s also an intimacy to the woods when it’s raining; you look more at things that are closer to you, rather than trying to see the mountain views (which, at the Kingdom Trails, can be spectacular in good weather).  The combination of cool weather, rain, and the parka turned out to be perfect; I stayed basically dry all day, with the rain being kept out and the jacket breathing well to keep me from getting clammy; a full review will be coming, but the short version is that the Red Ledge performed admirably.  While our planned picnic lunch had to go on the back burner, energy bars tasted awfully good halfway through the ride; adverse conditions always make you appreciate the little things a lot more!    

Muddied but unbowed, we leave the Kingdom Trails and head for the border (Kingdom Trails photo)

After three hours of riding, though, our energy levels were dropping, and the idea of a hot shower was sounding more appealing, so we headed in.  That’s when the Achilles heel of the Kingdom Trails appeared…no showers.  There’s a campground a couple of miles up the road where you can normally get a shower for cheap money, but this early in the year they weren’t open yet.  Note to self…putting a sun shower filled with hot water in the car in the morning MIGHT have been a good idea.  But, we were prepared with towels (never go mountain biking without one!), so a quick buff and change, and we looked respectable enough to head up the road.  Amazingly, most of the nastiness on our legs turned out to be bark and the like; very little mud, which speaks yet again to the quality of the trails.    

One weakness of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom is a lack of…well, pretty much everything that involves humans.  In this case, it was restaurants to grab a late lunch…small towns don’t tend to have any.  But a pleasant surprise awaited us in Island Pond; there’s a relatively new restaurant there called “Pond View”, and when we saw the specials list including homemade mac & cheese with ham and a side of garlic bread for a whole $7, and shepherd’s pie for $8, we had our forks at the ready.  The food was tasty and plentiful; for a post-ride comfort food refueling, we’d highly recommend it.    

The food at Haut Bois Dormant didn't just LOOK great; it tasted wonderful! (David Shedd photo)

Back on the road, it was time to head for Canada, and the hamlet of Notre-Dame des Bois, which is something along the lines of the last outpost of civilization on the way to our next day’s destination of Mont Gosford.  A small town like that is the last place you’d expect to find a B&B like Haut Bois Dormant.  Finding a room, sure…but not with food like this!  The proprietress, Julie Demers, happens to have been a professional chef before she decided to make a lifestyle change and work out of her home while raising her daughter.  With her husband Pascal Chagnon, she produces meals that wouldn’t be out of place in a high-end Montreal restaurant.  Our 3-course meal was impeccably prepared, beautiful to look at and tasty.  Local Lac-Brome duck confit was the centerpiece, with grilled veggies and sweet potato.  Like many inns in the Eastern Townships, it’s a “BYO”…you get to bring your own wine, making the meal even more affordable.  Dessert, again made by Julie, was an incredibly thin puff pastry tart with sliced pears and a drizzle of local maple syrup (even a born Vermonter like myself can admit that Quebec maple syrup is good!).  We headed up to a very comfortable bed full and happy; and anticipating breakfast!  Which, I’m happy to report, didn’t disappoint; a plate of three different versions of French toast was excellent and fun.  After eating every single bit of fruit garnish, we bid Julie & Pascal a fond farewell, and headed for the mountain.    

The highest peak in the Eastern Townships, Mont Gosford is a commanding presence (David Shedd photo)

Mont Gosford is tucked into the eastern end of the Eastern Townships; bizarrely enough, it’s almost entirely surrounded by the state of Maine.  Apparently, when the international boundaries were created, no surveyor wanted to try to get around the thing…it must have been just too much work.  And when you get close to it, you understand why.  Unlike the ski mountains elsewhere in the province, Gosford is part of the Appalachians.  At nearly 4000 feet (1193 meters), it creates quite a presence above you.  Luckily for us, we were going to try their new mountain bike trails rather than climbing it.    

This ain't your grandmother's mountain; trekking poles were a huge help climbing Gosford! (David Shedd photo)

However, fate, or more likely Mother Nature, decided to play tricks on us.  Mont Gosford has several peaks, valleys, gullies, you name it…and maky of them were still filled with snow at the end of May.  That means snowmelt, and soaking wet mountain bike trails.  Taking their cue from places like the Kingdom Trails, they closed the trails to avoid damage.  Hmm…well, we carry our trekking poles and hiking boots in the car all the time for a reason!  A quick switch of clothing and equipment, and the day turned from mountain biking to mountain hiking, with the bonus of a picnic at the summit becoming part of the new plan.  We’d picked up some local cheese and paté and put them in our cooler for an evening appetizer; instead, they were pressed into service as a decadent lunch, along with some of our usual traveling bag of food.  The Osprey Raptor 14 hydration pack that I’d been trying out is larger than the typical MTB pack, and was able to handle our lunch easily.  That’s actually pretty impressive for an MTB pack; our lunches aren’t exactly starvation rations!   So, in short order we were headed up the trail.  And, I do mean up.      

A gourmet picnic lunch with a view like this makes Mont Gosford a treat not to be missed (Susan Marean photo)

The trail to the summit of Gosford is not a little walk in the woods.  It’s a generally steep climb with some brook crossings and minor ravines.  Even on a relatively cool day, we were sweating like crazy and very glad to have hydration packs.  It’s easy to underestimate how dehydrated you can get on a climb like that; having that bite valve handy makes it easy to keep up with the water loss.  The trail itself is lovely, climbing through patches of flowers, crossing back and forth over a stream from the summit, and always going up.  As we approached the top, the trail closed in on us, becoming a narrow track through thick fir trees; but every once in a while, we’d get a “teaser” look at the view that would await us at the summit.  And it was worth it; the summit gives you a 360 degree view of mountains (mostly in Maine), range after range disappearing into the distance.  Breathtaking, and well worth the climb!  We were lucky that our plans had changed…this is a view not to be missed if you’re going to be in that area.  We sat and enjoyed staring off into the distance while we ate our decadent lunch, knowing that we’d already burned the calories we were taking in.  And, hoping that we’d burn enough on the way down to keep us from gaining weight at dinner…    

Relaxing on the front porch of Le Bocage is a wonderful way to wind down from a busy day (David Shedd photo)

That hope turned  out to be utterly in vain.  Our path led to the unlikely named town of “Moe’s River,” which has nothing to do with a particular Stooge.  It’s barely a hamlet; a few houses tucked into a crossroads, surrounded by the large, well-maintained farms that are a hallmark of the Eastern Townships.  And, tucked back behind a little grove of trees sits an early-1800s inn by the name of Le Bocage.   We pulled in, and were warmly welcomed by chef/proprietor Francois Dubois, who showed us to our room, gave us a quick tour of the inn, then disappeared back into the kitchen to make absolutely sure that we’d get more than our fair share of calories.  We, sensing a picnic in our future, headed off to a local winery, Les Coteaux du Tremblay.  Quebec has a growing reputation for quality wines, and while we were planning a day of biking and, um, “wining”, it seemed unfair to delay our gratification.  Tremblay’s proprietor and winemaker were both there, and we stumbled through a discussion of their wines in our atrocious French and their only slightly better English; luckily, their wines are better than our linguistics.  In what became a trend later, we found respectable if unexciting reds, decent and pleasant whites, and remarkably good dry rosés.  Since there’s not much better for a picnic, we purchased a couple of bottles and headed back to Le Bocage.    

The beauty of the food at Le Bocage is only exceeded by the flavor (David Shedd photo)

There, Francois had the bottle of white that we’d brought with us chilled and ready (like Haut Bois Dormant, Le Bocage is BYO).  Since we had an hour or so before dinner, we took our glasses and wandered the grounds, relaxing for a bit beside a carefully landscaped pool/fountain.  The mood was so relaxed and romantic that we almost hated to come in for dinner…almost.  Luckily for us, our laziness never gets in the way of food, or we’d have missed what is arguably the best meal that either of us has ever had.  From the spring roll of smoked salmon, flying fish roe, and leek tops to the stuffed quail and roasted ostrich, to the sinful chocolate cake, everything was homemade, impeccably presented, and delicious.  Still, nothing topped the soup; mirror-imaged sunflowers of local ingredients (beets, fennel, celery) that we hated to eat, they were so beautiful.  Francois’ artistry is evident in all his food, but none so much as that dish.  Make no mistake; this food would be spectacular in Montreal, New York, or San Francisco…at 2 or 3 times the price.  When coupled with the ambience and personal attention, it’s impossible to not recommend that every “foodie” head there before their fame, and prices, grow.    

The technical term is "tacoed"; a wheel that's folding over on itself, ending your day of riding. Luckily, ice cream wasn't far away! (David Shedd photo)

Morning brought another decadent breakfast; more French toast, this time with an obscenely rich caramel butter.  Still, we knew we had a challenge ahead of us, so of course we ate everything.  Bidding Francois farewell, we headed for Coaticook Gorge, a mountain biking venue that’s known for its difficulty.  Canada’s Velo Mag has said about it that “Mountain Biking is to the Gorge of Coaticook what Ferrari is to Formula 1″…and after riding the trails, we came to the conclusion that there probably couldn’t be a less accurate description.  Formula 1 and Ferrari are fast; Coaticook is technical. A better description would be “Coaticook is to MTB what the Baja 500 is to auto racing.”  If you want to ride here, bring your “A” game, a bike with great handling, and a lot of experience.  This is NOT mountain biking for beginners; even the easiest trails are highly technical.  It wasn’t long before I was wishing that I’d brought a bike with gears rather than a singlespeed; it’s virtually impossible on those trails to maintain the momentum necessary to make singlespeed fun and successful.  Susan, as a talented near-beginner, found herself bewildered by the constant stream of technical challenges.  After a couple of hours of frustration, she made the decision to head back to the car, put on her running shoes, and head back to meet me; my goal was to complete the trails before she could get back out of the parking lot.  All was going smoothly until a spoke on my front wheel decided to snap.  Ugh.  I did make it back to the parking lot before she left, however…unfortunately, I was carrying my bike rather than riding it!    

What to do, what to do…wait, we could eat!  Hot and tired, we remembered that we’d passed a huge ice cream factory on the way in.  What better lunch after a frustrating ride than an ice cream cone?  It turns out that the Laiterie de Coaticook has a retail shop, and we gorged ourselves on fresh cheese curd and ice cream made on the spot.  Yum.  Suddenly, the frustrations of earlier dissolved into a sense of well-being; we’d worked hard, earned a treat, life was good.    

Still, I had a major problem.  We had 4 days of riding to come, and I had a busted wheel.  And not just any wheel, but a 29er; not necessarily the easiest thing to get fixed.  We were headed to SkiBromont for the next day’s riding; we’d skied there last winter, and knew they had a repair shop, so it made sense to check with them first.  On arriving, we handed my wheel over to Philippe Gravel, the manager of SkiBromont’s rental & repair shops.  Politely, he didn’t laugh as he looked at my pathetically twisted rim; he took it from me, patted my shoulder, and said “don’t worry, we’ll figure something out.”  He then graciously offered to show us his favorite trails the following morning; we set a time, and headed to our hotel, Le St-Martin Bromont.    

Impressive to look at, but more importantly, Le St-Martin pays attention to the needs of cyclists (David Shedd photo)

The St-Martin is an impressive looking hotel in the boutique shopping district of Bromont.  Recently updated and expanded, the rooms are large, impeccably clean, and tasteful; after the crazy day we’d had, it was nice to just collapse and relax for a bit.  Since we had a few extra hours, we wandered around the shops a bit, then headed for the hotel’s hot tub to soak away our tired, sore muscles, knowing that we’d have yet another challenge coming the next day.  After a good night’s sleep, we partook of the hotel’s continental breakfast.  Le St-Martin Bromont is certified as a”Bienvenue cyclistes!” accomodation, which adds a twist to the typical hotel breakfast; they actually have some food that meets the needs of cyclists, so we didn’t need to head out to find something.  Instead of just the usual cereal and pastries, there’s hard boiled eggs, cheese, yogurt, and peanut butter for our bagels; easily enough protein to give us a solid base for our day.  Breakfast done, it was time to find out whether my wheel was fixed or whether I’d be spending the day reading by the pool.    

Fixed it was, thanks to a brillant effort by one of SkiBromont’s mechanics.  Spokes for 29er wheels aren’t commonly available, so he cut a regular spoke short, then created a twisted loop that he married to the remains of the broken spoke.  A little wobble remained, but not enough to keep me off the bike…and, in fact, once on the bike, I never noticed any problems through the rest of the week.  Impressive.  Phil was ready and waiting for us along with his girlfriend Marie Allaire.  Gulp.  Marie is an ex-member of the Quebec provincial MTB team; can you say “out of our league”???  This promised to be a very hard, very fast, very painful ride.    

Philippe, Marie, and Michel join us in cheering the fact that the climb to Bromont's summit is done! (David Shedd photo)

But, it turned out that our hosts were VERY gracious; they rolled along at our pace, pointing out interesting features along the trails, giving us pointers.  Marie was  particularly helpful for Susan; her technical skills are amazing, and she and Phil are both experienced teachers, helping local youth learn mountain biking.  Bromont’s trails are a wonderful mix of technical singletrack, smooth doubletrack, and back roads; there’s plenty of opportunity to bomb along a twisty section, then regroup and recover on a broad section where we could discuss the trails, the weather, life, lunch, you name it.  Bromont’s trails are partially maintained by the mountain staff, partially by the community; they’re beautifully designed, with great “flow.”  Flow is the magical quality of a trail that allows a beginner to work their way through the technical features and learn, while allowing a more experienced rider to go faster and faster and still come out grinning.  And grin we did; 3 hours later, after lots of singletrack and one VERY long trail up to the summit of the mountain, we were tired, happy, hungry, and thinking about our next trip to Bromont to ride the trails we missed this time!    

We could probably have ridden more, but as always, the Eastern Townships’ other attractions beckoned.  A quick shower, and then off to meet Phil & Marie in the village of Bromont for lunch, seemed more civilized than beating ourselves up more.  Lunch at L’Ame du Pain was both tasty and a bargain.  It was also particularly entertaining, as we sat outside and watched the crowds go by.  Bromont is chocolate heaven; the Musee de Chocolate is a tourist’s delight.  If we lived in that area, we’d probably be going by there daily, not only for the carvings and history, but to sample the incredible range of chocolate from around the world.  If you’re a chocoholic, this is an absolute “must.”  However, on this day, it was a sideshow, as Bromont’s Chocolate Festival was in full swing.  Imagine an entire town where you walk along the streets and there are people carving chocolate, selling different types of it…and that’s just the beginning.  The path of chocolate (think Hansel and Gretel and a trail of breadcrumbs) led to a huge exhibition hall that was chock full of vendors of chocolate.  To make it even more fun, there were a handful of Quebec wineries displaying their wares as well.  More tasting…and this time, it was Quebec’s other specialty that appealed to us, dessert wines.  They’ve raised “vin de glaciere” to an art form; this involves freezing the grapes to concentrate the juice, then making rich and decadent sweet wines.  We walked out with a bag full of different wines to bring home as Christmas presents; we got to taste them, and took stress off our holiday shopping at the same time!  Perfect.    

By now, it was late afternoon and we were still stuffed from our post-lunch snacking.  Dinner just wasn’t much of an option…but maybe a little snack would be in order.  One of the great joys of the Eastern Townships is supermarkets that are loaded with locally produced cheeses, patés, and other delicacies.  And the weather was predicted to be warm and sunny all the next day; perfect picnic weather!  Since the St-Martin had a refrigerator in the room, we picked up a broad range, including escargots and ready-made garlic butter to cook them in.   A few bites of our dinner-to-be, just to tease our palates for the following night, and off to our very comfortable bed.    

Now, one of the basic tenets of hard exercise is the “rest day.”  After 4 hard days, and with two more to come, we needed a day of light activity.  What better way to get out and enjoy the day than to hop on our bikes, ride on actual roads, and visit some more of Quebec’s wineries?  They’ve developed something called “La Route des Vins“, or, obviously, “The Wine Route”.   It’s even broken down into routes designed specifically for cyclists; Circuit #2 is called “The Birthplace of Quebec Winemaking;” clearly, we might as well start at the beginning!  At 31.5 kilometers, it seemed ideal for a light day, and all of the wineries were clustered right at the end of the ride; our visions of weaving along the shoulder after tasting innumerable wines were dispelled.  We parked at L’Orpailleur, where a local pointed out to us that since we had mountain bike tires, we could cut off a section of the route that winds through Stanbridge East, and instead take Chemin Godbout, which is a lovely dirt road that climbs up and over a hill between the wineries and Frelighsburg.  Low traffic, lovely views, and a long, fast run down to the highway made for a fun start.  Now, fair warning; while we were planning for an easy day, we forgot about one of the features that makes the Eastern Township so lovely: hills.  Coming out of Frelighsburg, and riding past Lac Selby to Dunham, are long hills.  Steep hills.  Great exercise.  And, a lot of work for our tired legs.  By the time we reached Les Trois Clochers, the first winery, we felt that we had definitely earned any decadence that we were going to partake in!    

Neither the views or the wines in the Eastern Townships disappoint (David Shedd photo)

Now, it’s hard to describe small tastings of a few wines as totally decadent, particularly the day after a chocolate festival, but after the ride it was pure heaven.  For starters, the wines were even better than we’d been expecting.  At Les Trois Clochers, Domaine des Cotes d’Ardoise, Les Blancs Coteaux, Gagliano, and finally L’Orpailleur, we were treated to a surprisingly good range of wines.  Not only were the dessert wines and rosés delicious, but some of the wineries, particularly Gagliano, are putting significant effort into reds.  The results aren’t as inspiring as the white and sweet options, but on the other hand it took California decades to make palatable pinot noirs; for an industry that’s still young, their achievements are impressive.  And, forgetting absolute quality, the atmosphere of tasting in the Eastern Townships is just plain fun.  Many of the people we talked to were the actual owners or winemakers for the vineyards; we learned more about the grapes, rootstocks, and methods of making wines in Quebec than we would have imagined possible.  The exuberance of the people for their work was more intoxicating than the amount of wine we drank, luckily for us!  As we finished the last tastings, the timing was perfect for a late picnic lunch; we settled back against a stone wall and enjoyed more of the local bread, cheese, and paté.  With a warm day, bright sun, beautiful views, and a shady spot…a nap was inevitable.  What a perfect way to end our days in the Eastern Townships!    

We’re always sad to leave that area; between the scenery, the food and wine, and the gracious hospitality, it’s a wonderfully inviting and relaxing place.  But, we had one more stop on our tour; the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, VT, had a whole series of new mountain bike trails, and we’d made plans to try those.  So, back into the car, refreshed by our nap, and off we went.  The drive down from Dunham to Stowe is a spectacular one, with great views and a trip through Smugglers’ Notch.  Not the ski area, but the actual notch itself.  On a map, it’s Route 108; in person, it’s hard to believe it’s a numbered route.  Steep, narrow, and winding, it’s an impressive and fun trip through the Notch.  On another day, we might have stopped to hike some of the trails in the state park, but with our lazy start, we wanted to get to the TFL and get settled in.   One note:  if, like us, you bring back wine as Christmas presents, prepare to pay duty at the border; if you don’t declare what you bought, it can be confiscated.  Frightening thought! 

It had been decades, literally, since I’d been to the Trapp Family Lodge.  Growing up in Vermont, it was a legendary place, not just because of the connection with “The Sound of Music,” but also for the hospitality and old-world style.  The old lodge that I’d been to way back when had burned in 1980, so I wondered what had changed.  Turns out that it’s everything and nothing; while all of the rooms and facilities are different, the sense of style and charm hasn’t changed.  The von Trapps still own and actively manage the resort (Johannes, Maria & The Baron’s son, is still president; his son Sam is vice president and daughter Kristina runs the history tours and helps with customer service, with Sam’s lovely new wife Elisa assisting her in that effort), and their stamp is all over it, from the boiled wool jacket on the maitre d’hotel to the meticulous attention and cheerful attitude of every staff member we ran into.  We immediately felt welcomed and valued; since we were still dirty and sweaty from riding up north, it was an impressive effort on the staff’s part!     

There are worse ways to end a day than an outdoor hot tub with a view (David Shedd photo)

A trip to the fitness center revealed an important feature; an outdoor hot tub!  Yet another opportunity to soak in decadence…life is good.  The view looks out toward the Worcester Range, which are some of Vermont’s most beautiful peaks.  It’s hard to beat that combination for relaxation.  And, since I was expecting a long workout the next day…well, it’s just something we had to do.  The hard part was dragging ourselves out before we fell asleep; generally, it’s not considered to be a good thing to do that while in water.    

The following morning, we headed for the dining room, and learned that old-style Austrian hospitality still exists there.  The breakfast buffet not only has the typical American foods on it, but there were a number of old world specialties as well.  The same attitude we’d found the night before was in evidence in the morning, as well; people were cheerful, helpful, and attentive to getting enough coffee into us to get us prepared to ride.    

Now, we were a bit concerned, as we were meeting Sam von Trapp and two of their bike shop employees to ride their regular trails, as well as some new trails they were building.  That worried us a bit; Sam’s reputation is as a heck of an athlete.  He’s young and strong, we’re…well, not as young or strong.  But, we were lucky, as all of the riders were more excited about showing us the trails than they were about hurting us.  With good reason, too; they’ve built some of the loveliest trails we’ve ridden.  As with the Kingdom Trails and Bromont, “flow” was the keyword; they had paid remarkable attention to smooth entries to bridges, nice transitions, switchbacks that could be ridden on the inside line or outside.  Susan was able to relax a little, and the improvement in her riding was remarkable by the time we left; it helped that Elisa joined us partway through, and lent her knowledge of the trails to Susan.  The Trapp Family Lodge offers special MTB classes designed just for women, but unfortunately, we weren’t there at the right time for Susan to take one…we’ll just have to go back!   I was plenty challenged as well, particularly when we left Trapp property and did the “Pipeline Trail,” a downhill toward the village of Stowe that’s just loaded with fast switchbacks.  But, as with the other trails, it was well enough designed that riding back up it, which strenuous, was just as much fun.    

The easier trails at Trapp Family lodge provide some of the most beautiful scenery, and are suitable for virtually all riders (David Shedd photo)

With the hard-core riding out of the way with, we took some time to ride some of the more relaxed trails.  Wandering through woods and fields, these are suitable for real beginners, and provide some of the best views available at the resort.  A gorgeous late spring day, beautiful scenery, and, of course, a picnic lunch, with more riding afterwards; truly, a great way to enjoy the area.  But, the fun didn’t end there.  This WAS vacation, after all, and riding bikes in the hot sun is work.  Thirsty work, at that.  However, it happens that  the Trapp Family Lodge had recently opened their own brewery; how convenient is THAT?  A crisp, fresh lager, sitting on the deck of the brewpub, looking at mountains and watching other bikers who were still out in the hot sun…that’s real vacation at its best.    

Alas, all good things must come to an end, and vacations can’t last forever.  We headed home from the trip, with much learned.  First, the main goal had been attained; Susan had relaxed, let the strain of all of that studying go…hard physical exercise, good food & wine, and lots of fun had performed their magic on her.  Second, we’d tested new trails and found them good; while the Kingdom Trails still are king, the trails at Bromont and Trapp Family Lodge are serious contenders for the throne.  Third, we’d been able to enjoy the beauty of the scenery as we traveled around the Eastern Townships and Vermont; there were so many moments, on the bikes and off, that we simply stopped and gazed at a mountain, a lake, a vineyard, flowers, whatever was near us.  And fourth, we’d met so many wonderful people; our hosts at the inns, Phil & Marie who graciously gave up their Saturday to show us the mountain, Sam & Elisa who had such enthusiasm for what they were working on and building, and many more.  The trails might bring us back…but the hospitality certainly will!

The Cyclopark PPJ is a beautifully maintained rail trail which runs through farmland and small towns.

If there’s a record book for longest place names with fewest consonants, the Outaouais (OO-TAH-way) region of Quebec must qualify. It’s a wonderful place to visit in foliage season, especially if you are celebrating something special, like, for example, a honeymoon (or a wedding anniversary next year . . .) .

Outaouais is north of Ottawa, Canada’s capital and west of Montreal. My sweetheart Marilyn and I had discovered this magical mix of sophisticated suburbs, tiny villages, lovely B&Bs, excellent restaurants and warm, welcoming people a few years ago and we couldn’t wait to get back. We recently spent five days there as part of a nine-day Quebec trip, filling our days with (mostly) outdoor adventures and our evenings with great food, great wines, hot tubs and the deep sleep of the well-exercised and well fed.

What could be more appropriate for a Honeymoon than a bicycle built for two?

We had three bikes with us on this on journey—her road bike, my cyclocross bike, and our fat-tire tandem bicycle built for two. The foliage was at peak, the scenery was gorgeous, and this is a wonderful place for biking. But an unusual stretch of  rainy, cold weather dampened some of those plans.

Our first day, we had planned to bike and picnic in Plaisance National Park which has 26 km of trails along the Ottawa River. We’d biked here before on a beautiful autumn afternoon on our previous trip. But this cold, wet day was better  for the geese and ducks which flock (literally) to the park than it was for cycling, so we settled into our B&B, napped, and hoped for better weather ahead.

The next morning dawned bright and breezy, perfect for bicycling, but I had arranged for a morning of flyfishing at Kenauk a 64,000 acre reserve in the hills above Montebello. My guide, Olivier, and I spent the morning in a rowboat, catching and releasing more than two dozen fat, strong rainbow trout from “La Loutre” (The Otter), one of the smaller ponds in this huge wild area. Marilyn in the meantime, explored the spa at Le Château Montebello a luxury hotel and the world’s largest log structure. I brought back a couple of trout and the chef at Aux Chantignoles, the Chateau’s main restaurant, artfully prepared them for lunch. What a treat!

Late that afternoon, we were able to walk off the big lunch along the banks of the Ottawa River in Gatineau across from Ottawa, Canada’s capital. Beautiful setting, right in the city.

Even rainy days can be beautiful in Quebec in foliage season as this view from the SteamTrain proves!

The next morning was pouring rain. Instead of biking along the Capital Pathways trail network (I wish more American cities had bike paths like these!), we hopped on the Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train that chugged and whistled along the banks of the Gatineau River to the little town of Wakefield, where we walked through the light rain, poked our noses into little shops, and admired the foliage along the banks of the river.

Our last two days provided better biking weather—and we  explored two beautifully maintained rail trails: Cycloparc PPJ runs 92 km between Wyman and L’Île-aux-Allumettes through rolling farmland and along the Ottawa River. The Vèloroute des Draveurs (bicycle path of the log drivers) is an 80 km ride north from Low to Maniwaki through boreal forests of birch, poplar, balsam fir and spruce. This is very different country, wilder, more remote; I wouldn’t ride here in black fly season, but it’s perfect in early autumn.

I’d love to come back and spend several days riding both of these trails. The trails themselves are inviting, the countryside is beautiful, the people you meet are friendly, and the entire Outaouais Region is worth exploring.

EAT, SLEEP, PLAY . . .

You can’t play outdoors 24/7. In Quebec that’s a good thing! They have welcoming lodging options from luxurious to cozy and inexpensive, and the best restaurants you can imagine.

In Papineauville, we stayed at Au Fil des Ans (819-427-5167), with it’s own little breakfast café (buy a brownie for the road before you leave). This is two blocks from my favorite restaurant in the whole world, La Table de Pierre Delahaye (819-427-5027). Try either the steak au poivre or the fish of the day and don’t miss the apple pie for dessert.

In Gatineau, Aux Berges des Outaouais (819-561-5241) is a lovely B&B (spectacular breakfast!) the banks of the Ottawa River a short walk to Sterling Grill & Seafood (819-568-8788) which is now Marilyn’s favorite restaurant—try anything with beef. Be careful what wine you order (they have bottles that cost $12,000!–but the $35 house red was excellent).

In Pontiac we stayed with Guy and Denyse Bergeron in Maison Bon Repos (819-682-1498) which was like going home to Mèmè. The Capital Pathway (we didn’t get to ride) was just feet away. That night we ate wonderful Italian in Aylmer at Bistro Ambrosia (819-682-5333), located in an old fire station with stunning artworks.

The Woodhaven B & B (819-647-5858) in Bristol is an amazing log home with a stunning river view (it’s for sale if you fall in love with it). Dinner that night was at the Café 349 (819-647-6424) in Shawville. Friendly waitress and chateaubriand!

Our final night was in Maniwaki at the Château Logue Hotel (819-449-48481). You wouldn’t expect something this nice in a small northern town. They have a wonderful dining room and The Vèloroute des Draveurs ends in their parking lot.

We hated to come home.

NO FRENCH? NO PROBLEM

Quebec is officially a French-speaking province. I don’t speak French. Marilyn doesn’t speak French. Yet neither of us have ever had any problem traveling, making reservations, ordering meals, or just plain having fun in Quebec.

My advice? Learn to say “bonjour” and “bonsoir” “s’il vous plait” and “merci.” Even the slightest attempt to communicate in French produces big dividends as people smile and respond in English.

Smiles are the same in both languages.

The little town of Knowlton welcomes cyclists with excellent restaurants, and lots of interesting shops. (Tim Jones photo)

Even though it’s been raining off and on (mostly off, hooray!) for two of the past three days, I honestly can’t think of any place I’d rather be. My sweetheart Marilyn and I are celebrating a major milestone in our life together with . . .you guessed it! . . . a getaway focused on shared outdoor activities. When we were planning this celebration together, I asked her where she wanted to go and what she wanted to do. She hesitated all of a nanosecond before choosing Quebec in foliage season.

Right now we’re in the Eastern Townships, just north of the Vermont border. Later today we head for Outaouais, the portion of Quebec just north of Ottawa. We’ve hit very near peak foliage and the colors as we’ve hiked, biked, and paddled the last couple of days have been spectacular.

On Sunday, we drove up I-91, crossed the border with no problems at all (remember to bring your passport!) and less than half an hour later were comfortably ensconced at Estrimont Suites and Spa (800-567-7320) just outside Mont Orford National Park. We only had time for a short hike, dodging the intermittent showers, and a blissful, long hot soak/sauna session in their outdoor spa before it was time for a fabulous dinner in the hotel. In the U.S., we rarely eat in hotel restaurants. In Quebec, we make it a point to try them and have NEVER been disappointed. In fact, the quality of the dining is one of the big reasons we keep returning to Quebec. We both love to eat well to fuel our exercise.

After sleeping long and well in a superb bed, we got up early, ate an excellent breakfast and started pedaling our tandem on a segment of La Route Verte.

For a change of pace, try paddling on the Quilliam Wildlife Reserve. (Tim Jones photo)

Later that afternoon we drove to Lac Brome near Knowlton where we checked into Le Cyprès (866-243-0363;) a classic lakeside motel/cottage resort where we had a lovely room with a deep bathtub for two. That night we ate another superb dinner at Les Relais at the Auberge Knowlton, the oldest continuously operating hotel/restaurant in the Eastern Townships. The next morning we biked around beautiful Lac Brome and back into Knowlton for some shopping.

For a change of pace that afternoon, we canoed through the Quilliam Nature Reserve behind Le Cyprès. The foliage was spectacular, the area was alive with migrating waterfowl and other birds. Even Marilyn, who is not an avid canoeist (she much prefers her kayak), thought it was spectacular.

Our final night in the Eastern Townships was at the Auberge and Spa West Brome (888-902-7663) which boasts a wonderful sauna and heated pool, and yet another excellent restaurant.

News Flash: The sun just poked through the breaking clouds and we are off for a couple of hours of biking through the beautiful rolling farmlands of West Brome before we have to jump in the car and head for more adventures in Outaouais. Too bad you aren’t here to ride with us. Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

BIKE ROUTES AND ROADS

The foliage display around Lac Brome was spectacular. (Tim Jones photo)

Much of the countryside is gently rolling hills that seem flat to a New England rider, the roads tend to be wide enough for comfortable riding, and everywhere we’ve gone in the Province the accommodations, food and services are superb and cyclist-friendly.

La Route Verte or, in English, The Green Route  is an $88.5 million dollar system of marked bike routes along roads (many with extra-wide shoulders), and superbly maintained dedicated bike paths that lead you across the province from the tip of the Gaspè to the Ontario border. If you love to pedal, you simply have to check it out. I can’t begin to tell you how wonderful this is. The US is decades behind Quebec in creating and maintaining beautiful, safe places to ride your bike.

Many regions across the Province also maintain their own bike routes and most offer excellent cycling maps to help you out. Plan a cycling vacation in Quebec. You won’t regret it.

TAXI VELO

The Eastern Townships is doing everything they possibly can to make their region more attractive to cyclists. One of the best ideas I’ve heard of is the “Taxi Velo.”

All of the local cab companies in the Townships have cabs set up with racks to carry up to four bicycles. If your bike breaks down beyond your ability to repair it on the road, or you over-estimate your abilities or underestimate the distance, or you just want to cycle point to point without having to loop back to your starting point, you can call a toll-free number (877 766-8356), and they’ll come get you at any road crossing along the designated bike route within the hour. The vehicles can carry four cyclists and their bikes. The set fee is $40 for the first 30 kilometers and $1.45 for every kilometer thereafter.

Though we were too early for prime foliage viewing, the scenery along the backroads of the eastern Townships was simply spectacular. (Tim Jones photo)

Instead of visiting your usual (and often bustling) foliage haunts, may I suggest driving a little farther and exploring the less-well-known Eastern Townships of Quebec in autumn? Think New England charm with French language (everyone speaks English, too), French flair and French cuisine.

Just over the border (don’t forget your passport!), the Eastern Townships share the same rolling topography with Vermont and New Hampshire: the proper mix of looming mountains, rolling hills and wide valleys. Quebec is the world’s largest producer of maple syrup, with sugar maples in abundance for color.

Quebec is crisscrossed with hiking and biking trails galore. The “Route Verte” is a 4,300 kilometer bike path that connects the entire Province and is now complete through the Eastern Townships. It’s just one of many. And where there are no bike paths the gravel back roads are perfect for quiet rides on a fat-tire hybrid, cross, or mountain bike

My sweetheart Marilyn and I just spent three days of exploring in the Eastern Townships, which included two days of biking Inn to Inn, and, of course simply fabulous food to fuel it all.

We began our trek in Sherbrooke, at the Delta Hotel, a large “business hotel,” convenient to downtown, which becomes a quiet getaway on weekends. Usually the restaurants in business hotels are overpriced and short on quality. Not here! When the dinner buffet includes a suprb rabbit in wine sauce, you know you’ve taken a step up in the world.

Sherbrooke is the a great town for exploring on a bike. There are bike paths everywhere, around quiet lakes, past beautiful parks, through quiet neighborhoods of beautifully kept older homes. Just a treat to ride. We pedaled away a good share of the morning and only saw a fraction of the town.  But our next destination was still 15 miles away, so we  headed generally southwest along La Route Verte to North Hatley and the Manoir Hovey. The path was mostly flat, smooth, covered mainly with stone dust where it wasn’t paved, very scenic. Great ride!

In Quebec they take their bike routes seriously. All bike lanes on paved roads are wide and clearly marked. The bike paths are displayed on excellent maps, readily available, and are clearly marked and signed so they are easy to follow even if you can’t function in French. Good thing, because there are so many routes to choose from, it would be easy to get confused.

Quebec takes bike paths seriously. The Route Verte bike path will eventually cross the entire province. Here in the Eastern Townships, it’s the perfect excuse for riding inn to inn -- and restaurant to restaurant. (Tim Jones photo)

Manoir Hovey, on the shores of Lake Massawippi was more elegant than what we are generally accustomed to, but it’s very, very nice to be spoiled like this once in awhile. I highly recommend the experience. They coordinated moving our car and luggage from Inn to Inn as part of their package.

Our third destination was the comfortable Auberge Ripplecove in Ayers Cliff at the lower end of Massawippi. They have a variety of  rooms from the elegant Inn (with spa) to lakeside cottages—we opted for a 100-year-old log cabin set just back from the lake. Perfect. And the food, as usual, was orders of magnitude better than you’d expect–even if you expected a lot.

It would be easily possible to paddle a canoe or a kayak from Hovey to Ripplecove (or vice versa) but we biked. Following excellent directions we pedaled a network of gravel roads over rolling hills (great workout!) past farms and through villages. No traffic, great scenery and a stop on the church steps in a lovely village for a picnic lunch.

Whether you choose to bike from Inn to Inn as we did, or park yourself at one place and daytrip out from there, the Eastern Townships is a great place to explore on a bike. We were too early for a real foliage experience, but all of the places we visited still had openings for later in September and early October. So even as you read this, it isn’t too late for a foliage getaway in French.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

RESTAURANT TO RESTAURANT BIKING

Lots of people in Quebec seem to have found the secret to the good life. They get out, get active, enjoy life—and fuel themselves with wonderful food.

OK, here’s the real truth: Quebec has wonderful people, quaint villages, intriguing shops, museums and culture, fabulous scenery, and lots of wonderful things to do. But the real reason we go is for the food. We bike from place to place because it allows us to eat more without guilt.

The food in Quebec is always better than you expect and frequently stunning. Here’s an example, we arrived in time for lunch on our first day, but had no plans for anywhere specific. We stopped in nondescript little roadside spot (didn’t even have a name, just a sign that said “restaurant”), which had salads with absolutely fresh local greens, grilled chicken that was delicately spiced and perfectly cooked, shreds of a vibrant local cheese and a perfect homemade dressing. The price? $8 Canadian.

Another day we stopped at the Café Massawippi along the bike trail and enjoyed a leisurely bistro lunch. Yet another day we picnicked with gourmet sandwiches, cheese, fruit and fresh vegetables packed for us at the Manoir Hovey

Normally I have one hard and fast rule in traveling—never eat dinner in a  business hotel restaurant. Let’s just say that, after a day of adventuring, we were happy to break that rule at the Delta in Sherbrooke.  The food and wine were orders of magnitude above what you’d expect in a similar setup stateside (try the rabbit in wine sauce with wild mushrooms . . .)

Both Manoir Hovey and Ripplecove are noted for their dining (one reason we chose them) and neither disappointed. You bike in, then feast on seafood, locally raised meats, and local produce, all prepared and served with true flair in portion sizes that satisfy without overstuffing you.

Talk about perfect: all those opportunities for biking, paddling or hiking so you can justify eating—what more could you ask for?

FRENCH LESSONS

You see an awful lot of very fit people enjoying life in Quebec. As we pedaled, we saw other folks out on their bikes, in-line skating along park paths, or simply out walking with the clear intent of getting somewhere and enjoying the experience.

Then, when it’s time to eat, they sit down to a carefully considered meal that’s an experience to be savored. How different from just grabbing something and eating it on the go.

Try it. We find we actually eat less and enjoy it more. Not a bad way to live.