by Tim Jones
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You don't have to be young, super-fit or foolish to challenge
yourself on vertical rock. This was Tim's first time in 23 years. (Photo by Ian Osteyee,
Adirondack Mountain Guides.)
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It's called the crux, the point of greatest difficulty which defines the rest
of the experience. In this case, the crux point was about six inches from the
sweat dripping off the end of my nose.
My world had shrunk to a few square feet of granite. All I could see was the
crack in which my right foot rested, the one tiny little rugosity I was hoping
was large enough to hold the inside of my left foot, and the expanse of
seemingly featureless granite where my left fingers were searching for something
to grasp. Just above knee level of my right foot was a flake of rock which might
hold me while I grasped for another invisible handhold with my right hand.
Finally, my left fingers and thumb found two opposing dimples in the rock,
invisible, but enough for a stabilizing hold.
"Get ready!" I called to Ian Osteyee of
Adirondack
Mountain Guides who stood on solid ground 40 feet below, securing the rope
attached to the harness around my pelvis. "I'm probably gonna fall."
"I've got you! Go for it!" he replied.
"Climbing!" I yelled, then pushed my weight up with my left leg as my right
foot rose to the spot I'd picked for it. As that foot found its hold, my
extended right hand reached over the curve of rock above and found a niche in
the rock face. Two quick moves later I was standing solidly on a foot-wide ledge
looking out at the mountains across the valley and down at my guide, grinning
from ear to ear as I let out a whoop of triumph.
Rock climbing is one of those sports that looks incredibly difficult and
dangerous, strictly the province of the young, the fit and the foolish. Not so!
Climbing is only as difficult and as dangerous as you want to make it -- success
is more about brains and finesse than brute strength. If you work with a
qualified and competent instructor, anyone who has enough leg strength to lift
themselves out of a low chair can get on the rock safely.
Safety and rock climbing don't seem like compatible concepts, but they are.
First, there's the equipment: all sorts of ropes, slings, harnesses, helmets
and hardware which, when used properly, are designed to hold you should you slip
and fall. Then there's your instructor who uses his or her knowledge to keep you
safe (you getting hurt would be really bad for business). Every rock
climbing lesson starts with safety instruction and safety is the central theme
of every lesson thereafter.
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Certified Mountain Guide Ian Ostoyee demonstrates his Spiderman technique. Rock climbing lessons start inches
above solid ground as you learn to find (and trust) tiny foot and handholds.
(Tim Jones photo).
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You'll likely start with "top roping" where your instructors stands on solid
ground and "belays" you with the rope running through an anchor point above. In
this situation you can't fall more than a few inches. Other than a scrape from
the rock, it's almost impossible to get hurt.
Later, as your skills build, you'll belay a lead climber as he or she climbs
a "pitch" putting in "hardware" for protection on the way. Maybe you'll even
progress to lead climbing yourself.
With each crux point you pass, you'll build both strength and skill, using
both your body and your perceptions in ways you never have before. You'll be
rewarded with stunning views, quality camaraderie, amazing adrenaline rushes,
and a sense of accomplishment you simply won't believe until you've experienced
it.
You can, literally, get high on a rock.
Rock venues
I re-started my rock climbing while on a visit to the Adirondacks in Keene
Valley, New York. There are several climbing schools in the area, but I chose
Adirondack Mountain Guides. Owner Ian Osteyee is certified by the American
Mountain Guides Association, and is a consummate professional.
There are also rock climbing hotspots and schools near North Conway, New
Hampshire, in the Shawangunks near New Paltz, New York, and in northern
Vermont's Green Mountains.
If you don't want to travel, check with your nearest outdoors sports retailer
or climbing gym. Chances are there are local climbing spots nearby where you can
learn.
Rating the rock
The climbable rock faces here in the northeast have established "routes" up
them. Like ski trails, these routes have a difficulty rating, starting at 5.0
(five-oh) where a fall could possibly have serious consequences to 5.14
(five-fourteen) which are the realm of Spiderman.
A good instructor will start you on very easy stuff and let you progress from
there at your own pace. By the end of your first day, you should be comfortable
on the easiest 5.0-5.3 routes, and ready to challenge yourself on the
"intermediate" 5.4-5.8.
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The smile says it all. ( Ian Osteyee photo).
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Reasons to rock
Have you ever given up something you loved or, worse yet, never tried
something for reasons that, in retrospect, seem foolish? I have. In fact, a few
hours ago, I gave myself a dope slap for being stupid. Fortunately, it didn't
hurt because I was wearing a helmet.
Until today, it had been almost exactly 23 years since I last challenged a
steep rock face. That hiatus was about 22 years and 364 days too long.
I gave up rock climbing for four reasons that seemed good at the time. I had
family responsibilities, time constraints, money issues and feared injury. Sound
familiar?
I know now my reasons weren't good enough. Responsibilities? How about your
responsibility to yourself to use your body and your mind to stay healthy and
have fun. Time? You make time. I could have introduced my sons to climbing as I
did to skiing. Injuries? Rock climbing is a very safe sport if you climb within
your limits. Money? You can buy a lot of climbing gear for the price of a TV set
-- and the TV set is far more likely to do permanent damage to your body.
Tim Jones is founder and executive editor of EasternSlopes.com. He writes about outdoor sports and travel. You can reach him at timjones@easternslopes.com
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