Peak Experience

Back in 1819, a visionary named Abel Crawford figured that tourists might pay good money to relax in a beautiful setting amid the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Some of them, he guessed, might want to see the view from the summit of Mount Washington. So he and his son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut a footpath from Crawford Notch to the top of the great mountain.

Was old Abel ever right! What would he think if he could see the crowds that converge on the mountain these days, especially during the glorious days of early autumn and foliage season?

At 6,288 feet, Mount Washington is the highest peak in the northeast. The summit, which used to have its own hotel and newspaper, is home to a weather observatory and museum.

A lot of tourists visit the summit via the Cog Railway. Still more journey up the Mount Washington Auto Road, either by shuttle van or private car. To my way of thinking, however, the only real way to experience Mount Washington is to hike it.

There are many hiking routes to the summit of Mount Washington. Some are easier, some harder. Some can be hiked up and down in one long day. Others require an overnight at either one of the tent sites on the adjoining ridges and spurs of the mountain, or in one of the huts operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club.

Marilyn and I have been challenging our leg strength and lung capacity on the slopes of Mount Washington, both day hiking and on a hut-to-hut adventure. These have been her first forays onto the big mountain and we have yet to make the summit. But that doesn't mean we haven't enjoyed the beautiful scenery and had a wonderful time.

Back in April while staying in Jackson, I took her up the snow-covered Tuckerman Ravine trail to watch the final leg of the Tuckerman Inferno race. It was a great hike with beautiful scenery. She wanted more.

In July, on our annual splurge at the Mount Washington Hotel, we climbed the Jewell trail to the junction with Gulfside just below the summit. We debated resting and then continuing on, but an approaching cloud bank encouraged us to turn around.

In the quiet days before the busy Labor Day weekend we spent three days hiking on Mount Washington. The weather reports from the Mount Washington Observatory told of an approaching rain storm, so we started early and ascended the direct Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail to Lakes Of The Clouds hut where we settled in just as high winds sent heavy rains cascading against the windows. It dropped to 34 degrees on the summit while we read and visited with other hikers. After a great dinner and a good night's sleep, we set out on a clear morning along the Crawford Path and Webster Cliffs trails to the Mispah Hut and another great dinner and overnight. Then we descended via the Mispah cutoff and Crawford path.

We still didn't make the summit! But Marilyn has indicated that she's ready for a rematch.

Weather or not

The claim that Mount Washington has the worst weather in the world is not one that should be taken lightly.

The highest verified wind speed (231 mph) ever observed on the Earth's surface was recorded here in 1934. In daily observations since 1932, the highest temperature ever recorded on the summit is 72 degrees F. Tourists who arrive on the Cog or Auto Road from the warm valleys are often surprised by (and unprepared for) the cool temperatures. The average annual temp. is 26.5 degrees F., winds average 35.3 miles per hour, fog is common, and the summit records an average of 86 inches of precipitation annually, including 21 feet of snow.

For hikers, rough weather on Mount Washington can be much more than an inconvenience. To date, 135 people have died on the mountain, many as a direct consequence of being caught unprepared by bad weather. So don't be ashamed to turn around if bad weather threatens. Mount Washington will be there another day, be sure you're alive to enjoy it.

Plan and prepare

When you go hiking on Mount Washington, always know the weather forecast, choose your clothing and equipment carefully, and then prepare for worse weather than you can possibly imagine.

The other day, while climbing up the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, we were passed by three hikers wearing blue jeans, cotton T-shirts, and sneakers. Despite the fact that there was rain in the immediate forecast (it started pouring less than an hour later), none of them appeared to have raingear or emergency equipment in their tiny daypacks. They did indicate that they planned to turn around if the weather got bad. Since there were no deaths reported on the mountain that day, I assume they did.

If you hike Mount Washington, don't wear cotton clothing. It robs your body of heat if it gets wet. Choose wicking materials like polyester for your underwear and quick drying fabrics like nylon or polyester for your shirt and pants. Fleece or wool should be used for your insulating layers as they offer warmth when wet. Be sure you always carry top-quality raingear on your hike.

In addition, carry a map and compass in case fog limits visibility. Getting lost on this mountain is an invitation to tragedy.  It's also a good idea to have a contractor's 55-gallon trash bag or a light tarp along for emergency shelter. Finally, carry enough food and water to help your body maintain heat and hydration as you hike.