by Tim Jones
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Photo by Annie Card
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I wanted to explore the islands off the coast of Maine, but had never even
sat in a sea kayak. So it seemed wise to do my first adventure with
H2Outfitters, one of
the most experienced kayaking schools and outfitters on the east coast.
The guided four-day, three-night kayaking/camping cruise on Penobscot Bay in
Maine turned out to be the perfect beginner's adventure.
H2O provided all the boating and cooking gear and excellent food. I provided
personal camping gear.
Like canoes, kayaks come in different forms for different purposes. Sea
kayaks are long, easy to paddle and stable in rough water. Some have a
pedal-operated rudder to keep them tracking straight, which is a nice feature.
You sit low in a kayak, and a spray skirt around your waist seals the boat so
even if a wave breaks over, the interior doesn't flood. Sealed hatches carry
clothes, food and camping gear.
After answering about zillion questions -- age, height, weight, fitness
level, paddling experience, overall health, food preferences -- I was fitted
with a top-of-the-line kayak and given just enough instruction to make it easy.
Clothing and gear lists made packing a snap.
We met near Stonington, Maine, and spent an hour or so stowing gear in our
kayaks. Cathy, Ward and apprentice guide Jonathan (alias Kato) then gave us a
quick lesson in getting into and out of a kayak. And we were on our way. As we
paddled in calm harbor waters, the guides gave us basic paddling instruction.
You use the big muscles in your torso rather than your arms to propel the boat.
Even fully loaded, the boats glide effortlessly over the water.
We paddled a little over two miles, threading our way among moored boats and
lobster buoys. We passed between beautiful islands (Russ, Little Potato, Camp
Green, Potato, St. Helena), some with houses, some uninhabited. Pulling up on
shore at Steve Island, we ate a leisurely lunch on the beach.
Then we got back in the boats and paddled another mile to Harbor Island where
we set up camp in a meadow. After gorging ourselves on swordfish steaks grilled
on a camp stove we lolled like beached walruses on warm rocks and watched the
sunset.
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Our campsite for two nights was this beautiful
meadow on Harbor Island, part of The Maine Island Trail. The views were
spectacular and the island pristine thanks to a "Leave No Trace" camping ethic.
(Photo by Annie Card)
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The next three days were a joy. We awoke to the deep thrum of working lobster
boats, and paddled the day away. One day, we circumnavigated Merchant Island and
paddled into the village of Isle au Haut. Another day we moved camp from Harbor
Island to Hell's Half Acre, a tiny dot on the chart near Devil Island and
perhaps the most misnamed island in the world. Next we beached on Green Island,
where we swam in a fresh water quarry.
We passed sailboats, lobster boats, motor yachts and lighthouses, and
beautiful seaside homes on our journeys. We floated over jellyfish by the
thousands, shared the calm waters with dolphins and seals, and saw gulls, loons,
guillemots, eiders, cormorants, ospreys and a bald eagle.
The channels between the islands were busy with boat traffic, but we paddled
in a tight little group with the guides shepherding us like ducklings. On the
last day, the wind picked up and we got to test the seaworthiness of our boats
in bigger waves. That was a nice adventure, with no real danger and no mishaps.
In all, it was a perfect outdoor getaway. Beautiful scenery, good people,
fresh air and fun exercise. H20 offers lots of other kayak treks, and I intend
to try more.
The Maine Island Trail
The incredibly beautiful public campsites we enjoyed on our kayak trek are
part of the Maine Island Trail System, a 325-mile long winding waterway route
extending from Casco Bay to Machias Bay.
Accessible by motor, sail and, at least in part, by paddle-powered craft, The
Maine Island Trail includes over 100 islands and mainland sites for day visits
or overnight camping.
All this abundance is there to be enjoyed largely because of the efforts of
the Maine Island Tail Association,
which maintains and monitors these public sites.
The MITA campsites operate under strict "leave no trace" guidelines. You are
required to carry out absolutely everything you brought with you. That includes
all solid human waste, which, with proper planning, is not as awful as it might
sound. Campfires are prohibited except by permit in established fire pits, and
pets are limited to certain sites.
Such regulations sound harsh, but none of the islands we visited had so much
as a candy wrapper marring any of the campsites or trails. That's the way it
should be.
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Paddling
along the Isle au Haut Thoroughfare past the Isle au Haut
Lighthouse. (Photo by Annie Card)
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Resources
If you're a newcomer to sea kayaking, or looking to expand your paddling
horizons, check out these resources.
Connecticut
Connecticut Sea Kayakers
Maine
The Maine
Association of Sea Kayak Guides and Instructors
Massachusetts
Appalachian Mountain Club
Boston Sea Kayak Club
North Shore Paddlers Network
Rhode Island
Rhode Island Canoe/Kayak
Association
Tim Jones is founder and executive editor of EasternSlopes.com. He writes about outdoor sports and travel.
You can reach him at timjones@easternslopes.com
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