by Tim Jones
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At 4,200 feet AMC hut
Greenleaf is a difficult hike, but offers spectacular wilderness views. (Photo by Tim Jones)
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The breath-taking scenery rates five stars, the staff is friendly and
accommodating, and the very reasonable cost includes hearty, home-prepared meals
and daily entertainment.
What's the catch of these "get away from it all" locations?
You have to hike to the eight full-service mountain huts run by the
Appalachian Mountain Club in New Hampshire's White Mountains. And I do mean hike
-- anywhere from 1.5 to 5 miles and 750 to 3,450 vertical feet. But remember,
cardiovascular exercise reduces blood pressure.
For the price of a one night stay ($82/adults, $51/for children with
discounts for AMC), these full-service facilities offer weary and hungry hikers
a comfy bunk and hearty, hot meals that they don't have carry or cook
themselves. The huts give you access to hiking trails, mountain summits and
pristine lakes. Stay at a shelter for one night or several, or visit a couple of
huts on your route, or hike the whole chain end to end.
In a way all the huts are the same: no phones, electrical outlets, TVs, or
computers. But your own pleasant exhaustion, the incomparable views, good
camaraderie with people from all over the world, make them well worth the effort
it takes to get there.
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Nice young people
will carry supplies in and cook your meals. Don't forget to tip "da croo."
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Backpacking without the load
The AMC huts are spaced a day's hike apart across the highest terrain of the
rugged White Mountains. Hiking from west to east, you encounter Lonesome Lake,
Greenleaf, Galehead, Zealand Falls, Mizpah Spring, Lakes of the Clouds, and
Madison Spring.
Part hotel, part hostel, the huts are rustic and comfortable, with just
enough "roughing it' to take you far from your everyday life. It's the fun of
backpacking without the heavy load.
Dinner and breakfast are served family style No napkins -- pa (no
napkins-bring your own and pack them out, please). The meals are heavy on
energy-rich carbs.. Fear not; if the Surgeon General took hut hikers as his
cross section of America, there'd be no concern about pervasive obesity.
Private rooms? Fuggedaboudit!
The huts sleep 36 to 90 in co-ed bunk rooms (bring earplugs if snoring
bothers you). The plywood bunks climb three tiers high. Each has a mattress, a
pillow and three scratchy wool blankets that must be folded before you leave in
the morning. You bring sheets or a sleeping bag.
The "facilities" are indoors, down the hall. They consist of cold water
sinks, no showers, and environmentally-friendly (and odor-free) composting
toilets. And yes, they do provide toilet paper.
After dinner, a resident naturalist leads a stroll and talks about the
geology, flora and fauna of the mountain ecosystem surrounding that particular
hut. Afterward there's usually a game of penny-ante poker or cribbage. Or you
can read by headlamp in your bunk. But the sunset is the real show. Then it's
lights out at 9:30 sharp.
You are awakened at 6:30, often by the cook playing gentle strains of "Here
Comes the Sun" on the guitar.
Each of the seven huts has its own personality. The two easiest huts to reach
are Lonesome Lake, which has swimming (2,760 feet, 1.5 mile hike); and Zealand
Falls, which sleeps 36 and is the smallest hut. At 2,700 feet, Zealand Falls hut
offers your best chance of seeing a moose in the yard. These two huts are family
favorites for one- or two-night stays.
Greenleaf Hut (4,200 feet), and Mizpah Spring Hut (3,800 feet), are more
difficult hikes, but put you in the middle of great day hiking loops along
Franconia Ridge or into the Dry River Wilderness.
Galehead, at 3,800 feet, is remote and hard to reach, but has spectacular
views of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.
Lakes of the Clouds Hut at 5,050 feet on the side of Mount Washington is the
highest and largest hut, sleeping 90.
Madison Spring Hut (4,800 feet) takes some serious hiking to reach, but is
set in a beautiful alpine tundra environment.
You can book the huts online at the
AMC website, or by
calling 603-466-2727
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Each evening the resident naturalist of
each hut gives a talk about native flora, fauna and geology.
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"Da croo"
The huts are manned by bright, hardworking, friendly and fun students or
recent grads, mostly from small east coast, liberal arts colleges.
Each morning, they put on a skit, emphatically reminding you to 1) fold your
blankets, 2) carry out your trash and 3) tip "the croo."
The reason for the tip become obvious when you see a "croo" member humping
50-80 lb. packs of fresh supplies to the hut. How else did you think your fresh
evening salad and breakfast eggs arrived?
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From above, it's easy to see the splendid
isolation of an AMC hut.
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Tim Jones is founder and executive editor of EasternSlopes.com. He writes about outdoor sports and travel. You can reach him at timjones@easternslopes.com
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