Riding the rails

In one of the greatest triumphs of common sense and practicality seen in many years, a number of unused railroad beds have been or are now being converted into recreational trails.

At one time, every town of any size in New England was connected to the outside world by a railroad. As highways replaced the railroads, the railbeds were abandoned. Some were taken over by other uses, some just sat there unused.

Because railroad beds were designed with gradual gradients, and because the rails were laid on a firm and even gravel surface, they make perfect paths for many different uses. Some of the trails are completely paved and can be easily negotiated with anything from a road bike to a wheelchair. Many others have gravel, cinder or crushed stone surfaces and can be handled by a mountain bike or hybrid. Still others are foot or mountain bike only -- and be prepared to get your feet wet where streams have washed out bridges.

Folks also use these rail paths for running, jogging, race walking, walking, strolling, roller blading, scooting and horseback riding. I've even seen a unicycle a couple of times. When the snow flies, cross country skiing and snowshoeing are popular, especially on the paths that ban snowmobiles.

How you use a rail trail depends on your goals and personality.

I happen to be a bike nut, and something of a fitness junkie, so my idea of fun is usually to start at one end of a trail and ride as quickly as possible to the other, then turn around and ride back. Younger families and people with lower fitness goals can just do a section of a trail at a more leisurely pace, stopping frequently to enjoy side excursions along the way.

Popular rail trails can get very crowded on weekends in good weather, with everyone from tiny tots in backpacks to active seniors all out enjoying a little fresh air and exercise. If people are courteous and aware of others using the path, and keep to their own side of the trail, the mix of uses works just fine.

Across the country, some rail trails have become so popular that they are tourist attractions in their own right. Here in New England, the 26-mile long Cape Cod Rail Trail has achieved that status. It's a zoo on some afternoons, but early in the morning, even on holiday weekends, you can have it to yourself.

There are other trails that are finished but haven't yet developed a big following and some that are in process of being developed. Still others are nothing but abandoned rail beds, waiting for the adventuresome explorer on foot or on a mountain bike. All are worth exploring.

The most complete listing of Rail Trails I've found is at TrailLink, which lists trails in every New England state. The Rails to Trails Conservancy is the driving force behind much of this trail development.

Using these resources makes it easy to find a rail trail for your own adventure. However, since new trails are always in development, the list is never complete. If you really want to explore, go to University of New Hampshire Library's collection of historic topographical maps, which lists then-active railroads. Some of these old roadbeds are just waiting for the crunch of your boot soles or bike treads.

Cape Cod Rail Trail

The first Rail Trail I ever encountered was the fully paved, 26-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail that stretches from Dennis to Wellfleet. It got me hooked.

The western end of the trail is the most enjoyable for a leisurely ride, maybe combined with a swim on a warm day. This section runs from Route 134 in Dennis (there's a large parking area just south of exit 9 off the Mid-Cape Highway) into Brewster. Here, the trail winds over easy hills, through shaded woodlands, past cranberry bogs, ponds with beaches and the Pleasant Lake General Store in Harwich.

The central third (from the Pleasant Lake General Store to Salt Pond Road) has a fair amount of roadside riding. Nickerson State Park, the half-way point of the Rail Trail, boasts both beaches and campsites. Orleans is a convenient turn-around point from either end of the trail with shops, galleries, restaurants and harbor view--the perfect place to take a break.

The eastern third, from Salt Pond Road in Eastham to Le Count Hollow Road in Wellfleet, is straight, flat, and fast, but not particularly scenic. It's a good place to work up your heart rate. Side trips, to the Visitors Center at the Cape Cod National Seashore and Coast Guard Beach, to Nauset Light or to Marconi Wireless Station, where instantaneous global radio communications began on January 18, 1903 make this section more interesting.

The Cape Cod Rail Trail is free. You can get a trail map or rent a bike from Idle Times Bike Shop (508-255-8281), with rental outlets in Eastham, Dennis, and at Nickerson State Park. 

Please, lose the headphones

This is just a personal viewpoint, but I hate seeing people on multi-use trails like this wearing headphones and listening to music, especially when the trails are crowded. I see it as a matter of courtesy and safety.

On the more popular rail trails, people are moving at all different speeds, so people are always passing each other. The only way to communicate is by voice. If you're listening to music, you're cutting yourself off from that communication line. Not only are you missing bird calls and the natural sounds of wind and water, you are also putting yourself and the people around you at greater risk of collision. Think about it.