Cabin-to-cabin skiing in Maine's Moosehead Region

In the days when the Bangor and Aroostook Railroad took passengers to remote places, the Moosehead Region of Northern Maine was about as remote as it got.

Not much has changed. You can now drive up in a few hours and the countryside is crisscrossed with logging roads and snowmobile trails. But there are still spots where you can be out all day and never hear an engine, never see another person.

This past spring, I visited Little Lyford Pond Camp, a traditional Maine sporting camp that’s been taking guests since the 1880s. Little Lyford was purchased two years ago by the Appalachian Mountain Club (603- 466-2727) as part of its Maine Woods Initiative. The initiative is a plan to protect and manage more than 37,000 acres of land, enhance outdoor outdoor recreation opportunities, and still allow traditional land uses.

Since then, the AMC has acquired Medawisla and Chairback Camps. The two isolated, rustic, old-time sporting camps will re-open later this year. The AMC has also struck up a deal with West Branch Pond Camps.

These camps are all close to each other and surrounded by protected wilderness. This presents a unique opportunity for winter outdoor enthusiasts to hike or snowshoe, ski or dogsled from camp to camp for a multi-day wilderness adventure -- with comforts.

In January 2007, I was part of the first group to explore this opportunity. I haven’t felt this much in the “wilderness” since my last winter trip to Labrador.

We got a late start out first day (after a spectacular lunch) and had to content ourselves with an afternoon ski around Medawisla. Instead of skiing to West Branch Pond Camps, we skied across the ice of Second Roach Pond. We passed empty eagle’s nests, and followed coyote tracks, seeing where they stuck their noses into every muskrat run and rabbit track.

That night we ate very well at West Branch Pond Camps, where the stars shine as brightly as they do in the Labrador wilderness. We slept in a cozy wood-stove-heated cabin.

The next morning, the snow squeaked loudly with each step as we made our way to a breakfast which started with fresh, homemade donuts, still warm. The temperature was well below zero, the sun shone in a perfect blue sky, and nearby White Cap Mountain showed why it got its name. Spectacular!

Some of our little group hooked up with Steve Madera of Song In The Woods and set off on dogsleds. The rest of us put lunch in our packs and prepared for the nine-mile ski journey to Little Lyford.

If you pre-arrange it, the staff can move all your luggage. This allows you to ski with just a light day pack, either on your own or with a registered guide.

The ski to Little Lyford was the highlight of my winter, so far. The trail was gently rolling and easy to follow. At times we spread out so each of us had a little patch of wild Maine to ourselves. Other times we came together to laugh and share the experience. The nine miles was just perfect for an easy day. If we’d had more time, I might have explored some of the backcountry trails in the area. Next time.

Little Lyford Camp has cozy log cabins built in the 1880s. There’s a new kitchen/dining building with terrific meals and a new bath house with a sauna, showers and composting toilets.

My only complaint about this trip is that it was far too short. Four days and three nights would be minimum, longer would be better. If you possibly can, get out this winter and try it yourself.

Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!

Rent to go

Even I, whose attic and basement looks like a well-stocked (if somewhat cluttered) outdoor shop, don’t have all of the gear for every possible adventure.

It turned out that classic touring skis, which I have, would have been fine for this adventure. But I didn’t know that going in.

I wanted as much versatility as possible, so I went to the local Eastern Mountain Sports. I rented Fischer S-bound backcountry skis and Scarpa boots, and Black Diamond skins (which I never needed). The whole setup worked absolutely perfectly for this adventure. The wide, short skis weren’t as fast or as light as traditional touring skis, but they handled the off trail stuff exceptionally well. The boots were warm and comfortable even in deeply subzero temps.

Lots of places rent outdoor gear, and most of it is first-rate. Remember, the folks who work in these places are even bigger gear-heads than you are.

If you are renting gear, try to collect it at a time when the shop isn’t busy. Allow yourself plenty of time to check things over, try things on and make sure you know how everything works. There’s nothing worse than finding yourself in the middle of nowhere with gear that doesn’t fit or doesn’t work.