Cross-country skiing in New Hampshire's White Mountains

It's nine degrees outside as I write this. The wind is howling. The temperature is falling fast. And life is wonderful!

I'm comfortably settled in a deep leather armchair, a glass of good red wine within reach, in front of a blazing fire in the parlor of the Inn At Jackson (1-800-289-8600; www.innatjackson.com ) in Jackson NH. Marilyn is reading in the next chair; we're still slightly damp from the outdoor hot tub and our muscles are pleasantly singing the songs that only well-used muscles can sing.

The people who went downhill skiing today are still shivering, telling stories of corduroy snow, a cold, biting wind, frigid chairlift rides and frequent stops in the lodge to warm up.

The cross-country contingent, on the other hand, is ruddy-cheeked and glowing, with stories of quiet trails through the woods on a little fresh-fallen snow, the wind heard but hardly felt. Marilyn and I count ourselves lucky to be among this last group.

Even though opportunities have been in short supply this season and last, cross country skiing is one of the world's great winter sports. No matter what your fitness level, from confirmed couch-potato to Iron-Man or Iron-Woman, you can just jump in and get started.

If you've never skied before, there's much pleasure to be had in gliding along on flat terrain. The equipment is light, comfortable, and not intimidating. You don't have to go fast or far; there's little danger of being hurt if you fall.

On the other hand, if you're the type who likes to go hard, or seek out challenges, you can do that and get a tremendous aerobic workout.

Weather isn't critical for your enjoyment of cross-country skiing. If it's warm you just dress lightly. If it's cool, you still dress lightly and just pick up the pace and work harder. You'll stay warm. Even on a bitter day like today, you're still more likely to find yourself too warm than too cold.

This particular corner of New Hampshire is X-C central at the moment. Within an hour of this spot there are close to a dozen Nordic ski resorts offering more miles of groomed and tracked terrain than most people could ever ski in a long season.

You can have your choice of flat, rolling or downright steep terrain, woodland trails or wide-open fields, valley or mountain scenery. All of it is wonderful.

While no place is exactly buried in snow, there's at least enough to keep everyone smiling and happy. But cross-country skiers are generally a happy lot anyway. It's all those endorphins from all that exercise and fresh air.

Marilyn and I have concentrated our adventures at two of the local cross-country facilities. Jackson Ski Touring Foundation (603-383-9355; www.jacksonxc.org ) is offering the most snow and the most terrain: at present, 65 kilometers of groomed trails, much of it tracked for classic skis.

Great Glen Trails Outdoor Center (603-466-2333; www.greatglentrails.com ) in Gorham, NH, near Pinkham Notch, has gotten less natural snow, but much of their skiing is in a beautiful meadow with spectacular views of Mount Washington and the Great Gulf Wilderness. Beautiful setting.

If we'd wanted more options, Bear Notch Ski Touring Center (603 374-2277 ; www.bearnotchski.com ) in Bartlett, N.H., is only a few miles away, and the Bretton Woods Nordic Center (603-278-3333;  www.brettonwoods.com/xcountryski/   ) in Bretton Woods, N.H is just beyond. All have snow.

Do yourself a favor. If you're looking out your window at bare ground, get yourself up north. There's snow here, waiting to lure you out onto cross-country skis.

Getting started: Lessons Needed?

Cross country skiing is far easier, far less intimidating than Alpine skiing. There are no heavy boots, no heavy bindings, no sharp edges.

I would guess that most folks here in the Northeast start cross-country skiing on borrowed or garage-sale gear on their back lawn or the local park. There's nothing wrong with that. "Classic" kick-and-glide cross country skiing is pretty much intuitive. You can at least get started on your own, and you can learn much of it by watching others.

Keep it up long enough and you'll eventually learn what you need to know.

The only trouble with this basic approach is that most people learn how to get around at low to moderate speeds, for limited distances on flattish ground and never progress any farther. They never learn how to step it up and take on greater challenges. When you are stuck at one level, even something inherently as much fun as cross-country can get boring.

My advice, whether you've never skied before or have and just want to get better is to find a cross-country resort that has snow, rent the latest gear and boots that fit, and take a lesson. If you are already competent on classic gear, try skate skiing for a new challenge.

Whenever you take a lesson from a professional instructor, you know you are headed in the right direction, not making any mistakes you'll have to correct later,

You might just be a better cross country skier than you've ever imagined, but you'll never know unless you try.

Friendly competition

Many cross-country resorts have fun race programs which let you track your progress throughout the season.

I was recently at Great Glen Trails and found myself right in the heat of their Nordic Meisters competition. This series of community races is run every Tuesday. Folks can come in throughout the day, ski a race course, and, at the end of the season know how they improved against themselves and against other skiers of similar abilities.

Great program. Call the Nordic Center nearest your home and see if they have or will start something similar.