by Tim Jones

A closed mountain road not maintained for winter travel, like Vermont Route
108 between Stowe Mountain Resort and Smuggler’s Notch Resort, is a wonderful
invitation to get outside and burn a few calories on an early winter day. Just
watch out for black ice when the sun disappears and all that slush and snowmelt
re-freezes. (Tim Jones Photo)
Business meetings the first Monday in December took my sweetheart Marilyn and
me to Stowe,
Vermont. But all work and no play makes for a very dull life, so we decided
to make an outdoor getaway of it.
Stowe has dozens of restaurants and varied lodging opportunities to explore.
It is one of our favorite outdoor spots at any time of year.
Early December is often a quiet time and this year especially so because the
cursed warm weather and rain had shut down the ski area after its successful
Thanksgiving weekend opening.
Last minute, we had no trouble at all finding a wonderful place to stay:
Hob Knob Inn, the oldest
ski lodge in Stowe, though you’d never know it for the modern amenities. We also
found open tables for dinner at The Restaurant Swisspot (wonderful fondue!), and
Miguels Stoweaway (my favorite Mexican restaurant east of the Mississippi), both
of which can be crowded at times.
Even with downhill skiing and snowboarding on hold, Stowe has many, many
great places to play outdoors. There’s an outstanding trail system for
everything from serious high-mountain hiking, to leisurely strolling, to
cross-country skiing and snowshoeing when there’s snow, mountain biking when
there’s not. They’ve got a wonderful sledding hill behind the elementary school
in town. There’s year ‘round horseback riding, kayaking and canoeing in the
summer, skating in the winter. Busy place.
It had snowed several inches overnight but the late-morning sun was working
hard, the wind had died to a gentle breeze. It was, in other words, a beautiful
afternoon to be outdoors. So we decided to talk a long walk.
Climbing Mount Mansfield was certainly an option. But at this time of year, I
won’t head out into the high hills -- even on the nicest of days — without full
winter survival gear. There’s just too much of a chance that something could go
wrong: a slip of the foot, a twist of the ankle, or the weather could turn
severe in a heartbeat. I don’t ever want to be one of the people the selfless
folks who make up the Stowe Mountain Rescue Team have to haul off the mountain
-- I’d never hear the end of it.
There were two obvious choice for a walk: the Stowe Recreation Path which
runs a nearly-flat 5 miles from the village to the Top Notch Resort and Route
108, beyond Stowe Mountain Resort up and over Smuggler’s Notch.
This section of road is not maintained for winter driving, which means it’s a
perfect place to walk. That’s where we headed
Good choice. Most of the snow was melting off the roadway in the early
afternoon sun as we climbed up toward the top of the notch. But there was still
enough snow in the woods to make the landscape look like early winter.
I had to laugh because, where the snow still lingered along the road you
could see a single set of cross-country ski tracks where some kindred soul who
just couldn’t wait for winter had gotten out early (probably on an old pair of
boards) and skied up the road and back down. I can relate.
Our expedition was a little less fanatic but still fun. We reached the top of
the notch in good time, working up a pleasant sweat in the process, savoring the
fact that every calorie burned meant one more we could eat guilt-free at dinner.
The views were lovely, the wind was fresh, the people we met were smiling, as
were we.
It wasn’t a huge expedition, just enough to remind us that there are always
options for getting outdoors and having fun, even if the primary purpose of the
trip was something as mundane as business.
Life isn’t a spectator sport. Get out and enjoy!
Mother Nature's Warped Sense of Humor By the time we reached the high point of our little hike, the sun had
disappeared behind the shoulder of Mount Mansfield, and the wind carried a real
chill to it. No surprise there, it’s December.
But the quick chill meant the melting snow along the road surface quickly
re-froze into a thin skim of super-slick black ice; the same kind of black ice
that can send your car spinning out of control. Black ice is no kinder to
hikers.
We had on hiking boots which provide great traction on everything but ice.
Marilyn had hiking poles; I hadn’t bothered with mine. Of course we hadn’t
brought traction creepers. This wasn’t a hike, just an afternoon stroll along a
road, right?
After the first couple of slips (no falls, thank goodness,) we got smart and
stepped off the road for our hike down. The gravel road edge hadn’t heated up
like the blacktop road, so the snow hadn’t melted and refrozen. And the texture
of the gravel underneath meant we’d have had traction even if it had.
We were glad for our hiking boots, however. The ditches were uneven and in
running shoes, it would have been pretty easy to twist an ankle, We’d have had
to be more careful with different footwear.
Unprepared as we were, we weren’t in any danger or discomfort. We just had to
adapt to changing circumstances and be a little careful. It was a nice reminder
that, no matter what your plans are, Mother Nature can have other ones, and
you’d better be ready for whatever She sends your way.
Tim Jones is founder and executive editor of EasternSlopes.com. He writes about outdoor sports and travel. You can reach him at timjones@easternslopes.com
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