Whitetail - Mercersburg, PA - Review

When Pennsylvania's Whitetail Mountain Resort opened in 1991 with the region's first high-speed quad, a respectable 935-foot vertical, wide slopes, and a modern base lodge, a six-mile-long line of cars brought I-70 to a standstill.

While backups are no longer a problem on the main artery that heads west out of Baltimore, the resort remains one of the most popular in the mid-Atlantic region. Last season, Whitetail averaged more than 2,000 skiers per day. And it's no wonder: The resort is a perfect day trip from DC, Baltimore, and Harrisburg. In fact, on any given weekend, the governments of Pennsylvania, Maryland, the District of Columbia, and perhaps even the U.S. could be run from Whitetail's slopes given the personnel who are skiers and riders.

If there's one word to describe Whitetail it's "easy." The resort is easy to get to, easy to navigate, the trail layout is easy to understand, and, most of all, Whitetail is easy to enjoy.

Getting to Base Camp

Let's get one thing clear: Whitetail can be a zoo on weekends and holidays. On the busiest of them, Whitetail's staff, from the general manager to members of the Skier Safety Team is out in the lots, making sure every car is directed to the next available parking space and pointing customers in the direction of the quickest way to the slopes. Shuttles take skiers and snowboarders to and from the farthest lots. Or, take advantage of valet parking for a nominal fee on busy days.

Here's an insider's tip: Even if the parking lot looks full, try driving all the way to the base lodge and make a right. Empty spots can sometimes be found near the bottom of the Fallmount trail.

Most Mid-Atlantic ski lodges are simply utilitarian, but Whitetail's award-winning 47,000-square-foot lodge is pleasant to look at, efficient, and a pleasure to spend time in. The lodge houses food services, lift ticket counters, the ski school, a retail store, and changing rooms. A separate building holds rental facilities and coin-operated lockers. Plenty of seating is available both inside the lodge and at picnic tables outside.

Layout and Terrain

A Whitetail bonus: The entire resort faces southeast, so almost all the trails get morning sun. This is especially good after a busy day when the temps drop well below freezing overnight; the snow will soften quickly in direct sun.

Facing the mountain, trails progress from easy on the left to difficult on the right. This natural separation ensures that beginners won't accidentally end up on expert terrain. Even so, the mountain's terrain skews toward beginners and intermediates, with occasional challenges for experts.

• Easy Does It: New skiers and boarders will thrive on short, nearly flat trails such as Northern Lights and Velvet. Two dedicated beginner-friendly lifts, a quad and a double running slow and low to the ground, provide plenty of lift capacity. Novice skiers and riders are spread out on the trails, the lifts, and in the loading area nicely, preventing traffic jams on the slopes.
  
  A step up in difficulty is Snow Park, which gets its own fixed quad and has enough pitch to make it challenging for beginners. The resort sees the trail as an excellent location for progressing novices to refine their skills.
   
• Of Park and 'Pipe: The ski area has its snowboard/twintip options, too. Adjacent to Snow Park is Whitetail's in-ground halfpipe. (It sits in an excavated hollow to hold snow better while using less of it.) At 475 feet, it is one of the longest in the region, with walls 12 feet high. Lower Angel Drop, a blue cruiser, is home to Whitetail's terrain park, which typically offers five or six table tops, a quarter-pipe, and two or three rails, including a rainbow.

• Bumps to Burn: While there is no truly intimidating terrain at Whitetail for hardcore fanatics, the expert slopes, which aren't much steeper than the intermediates, are often left ungroomed. That, at least, means better skiers have to remain focused.

The big plus regarding the mountain's expert terrain is that it is located in its own isolated enclave. To get there, skiers must veer off from Lower Angel Drop to Drop In, a short and steep slope that empties at the bottom of the Expert's Choice quad. It is the only way to reach the expert trails, and its steep pitch serves as an effective filter to keep out tentative beginners and intermediates.

The Expert's Choice fixed quad seems slow after riding the Whitetail Express, but the bright afternoon sun can make the leisurely ride a pleasure, and the terrain here is rarely crowded, even on the busiest days. Skiers can choose between three expert trails, or cross back over to the intermediate terrain.

Night Moves

The action at Whitetail doesn't stop after the sun sets. Except for intermediates Fanciful and Fallmount, and the expert Far Side, all slopes are lit until 10 p.m. for night skiing. Five tubing lanes are also under the lights, an attraction the ski area added last season to expand the appeal of snow fun to non-skiers and riders as well as those who want to try something different.

Crowds usually thin at night, though Friday and Saturday evenings can still be busy. The top of Whitetail affords beautiful sunset views that slowly dissolve into starlit nights. As the sun sets, however, the ski area's slopes can begin to ice up-a typical development at a number of Eastern ski areas.

Be warned: Mid-Atlantic resorts live by snowmaking, and since long stretches of sub-freezing temperatures are uncommon in the Mid-Atlantic, snowguns will be blowing any night when the temperatures dip. Be sure to have goggles and earplugs handy.

Lessons Learned

Whitetail's Learning Center has 230 instructors and an inclusive "Learn to Ski or Board" package is backed by a guarantee: If a student is unable to link turns after a level 1 lesson, the next lesson (on a subsequent visit) is free. Private and group lessons are offered, along with special clinics. Among several children's programs are season-long packages that provide on-slope coaching, lunch, and special clinics. For infants that aren't quite ready to hit the slopes, Whitetail offers day care.

Tom Mann: "If you are an advanced adult skier and want a private lesson, sign up for a group lesson, shooting for late-afternoon sessions, which are the least crowded. You will often wind up with a private or two-person lesson for the price of a group lesson. Whitetail instructors rarely get off the greens, and will practically fight each other to go out with an advanced skier to practice their teaching skills."

Whitetail also has a pay-as-you-go race course set up on the Homerun trail on weekends. But for the serious competitor in the family, there's always the Whitetail Race Team (www.racewhitetail.org), which provides race training to youngsters, and sponsors regional competitions.

Food & Other Essentials

On-mountain food is above average for a day resort. The Market Place Food Court offers typical resort fare including a deli bar, pizza, burgers, and soups. Different specials are offered each day, such as lasagna or meatloaf, including a bread stick and choice of two sides. The more upscale Windows restaurant, open weekends and holidays, offers entrees such as smoked salmon and medallions of beef. Both offer views of the slopes. Many visitors also bring bag lunches to Whitetail, placing them in a cubbyhole in the main lodge. The resort doesn't discourage brown baggers.

There's not much of an apr?s ski scene at Whitetail; after the last run, most visitors head straight to their cars. Part of the reason might be because no alcohol is served at the mountain. Regulars do hint, however, that you can bring your own if you're discreet. But if enjoying a brew while watching the Redskins is your idea of winding down after carving up the slopes, nearby Mercersburg, Hagerstown, and Frederick all have a selection of pubs and bars.

Timing is Everything

That four-hour time frame is one of the resort's best and most cost-effective options. You can purchase a four-hour flex ticket to ski any four-hour portion of the day or night. Or, for a lower rate, you can purchase a night pass, valid from 5-10 p.m.

And the best time to start your four hours? Whitetail regulars are unanimous: Be there when the slopes open, especially on a holiday weekend.