If you are looking for a safe, easy way to bring your family on an outdoor adventure this winter, Lucie Villeneuve can help. (Tim Jones photo)

The little town of Errol in the Great North Woods Region of New Hampshire, is kinda quiet, out of the way (on the Maine border, 20 miles or so north of Berlin), and surrounded by hills, lakes and rivers. In other words, it’s the perfect town if you are looking to find or hold onto winter, or if you enjoy hiking, mountain biking and, especially, paddlesports in summer.

I was in the Errol neighborhood on a winter camping by dogsled adventure on beautiful Lake Umbagog, and built in an extra day to explore a little more of the area. An extra week would have been better. I still wouldn’t have seen it all.

I’d first gotten the idea from the folks at the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. The NFCT is a magnificent 740-mile water passage from Old Forge, New York to Fort Kent, Maine. It’s a paddler’s dream in the summer, but often forgotten in the winter. The NFCT is building partnerships along the trail to help get more people out and exploring year ’round. Worthy goal, and they are doing a great job.

It's the guide's job to break trail up steep slopes for the clients, and Lucie attacked the steeps with glee. (Tim Jones photo)

In Errol, they have partnered with Lucie Villeneuve of Outdoor ESCAPES New Hampshire,  who will arrange guided paddling or hiking adventures in the warmer months and cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in the winter. There are several lodging options for these packages in Errol. The one I selected was 150 Main Street Lodging On The Androscoggin, where owner/hosts Debbie  and Bill Freedman operate a very cozy, comfortable and welcoming guest house right on the banks of the river on the edge of Errol. The Androscoggin here is, of course, part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, and it’s literally, steps from the backdoor. Bill is an avid fly fisherman, and would be a terrific resource if you want to fish the area in summer. I ate dinner with the Freedmans that night at the Trading Post Restaurant, a few miles north of Errol in Magalloway, Maine. Bill and I talked fishing all night. Debbie looked like she was used to it. My other meals I took at the Northern Exposure Restaurant, practically next door, hearty home-cooked food to fuel an outdoor adventure.

Speaking of outdoor adventures . . .since I’d just come from three days and two nights of dogsledding, skiing, and winter camping on flat, packed trails around Lake Umbagog, and since there was more than a foot of fresh powder on top of a deep base of snow, I asked Lucie if she’d mind searching for some untracked snow on a slope. She was happy to oblige and made it clear that she will customize adventures to her clients’ desires and abilities.

Since it was just the two of us, and since we are both experienced and avid backcountry skiers, we decided to ski up (“up” being the operative word–remember this for later) the summer access road to Munn Pond, just south of Errol. Even with skis on we were sinking knee deep into the soft snow in the woods. At one point, where the snow-covered road was narrow and especially steep, we detoured onto the packed snow of a nearby snowmobile trail to scale the slope more easily. Sometimes, the longer route is the faster (and easier!) one.

Munn Pond was beautiful, nestled among quiet hills. Though we knew from having skied up a bit of it that there was a snowmobile trail not far away, we couldn’t hear it, and we skied across the lake hearing only the soft sigh of the wind and the hiss of our skis on the snow. Just beautiful. We saw tracks of moose, coyote, ruffed grouse and snowshoe hare, but no tracks of other people. Lucie is a born teacher, good at pointing out and explaining the wonders of nature you see on a trek like this. After a couple of hours of pushing our ski tips into lovely, silent places, we reluctantly headed back down the hill toward the car.

Wheeeee!!!! The payoff for climbing up was skiing down through some deep untracked powder. We enjoyed it so much, we went back up and did it again! (Tim Jones photo)

Remember all that “UP” I mentioned before? Well, baby, this was payoff time!!!

The steep slope we had avoided coming up was now a quarter-mile narrow ribbon of pristine, deep, untracked snow winding through the trees. I went first, swooping down through knee-deep snow, whooping all the way for the pure joy of it, breaking tracks for Lucie to follow. My tracks allowed her to gain speed and she flew past me as I stood to the side of the trail. We were both giggling when we stopped.

In fact, we  had so much fun, we decided to follow our original tracks out to the snowmobile trail, back up the hill and do it all over again. This time, the extra speed and momentum carried us back into the tracks of our original climb and we coasted all the way down to the car. What a great finish!

The  Guided Advantage

By choosing a guided trip, I found not only good companionship, but also a place I probably never would have explored on my own. Not all of us are lucky enough to know someone experienced who can inspire us to try something new and get us started safely. Many of us need outside help with getting motivated, planning and safely executing an outdoor adventure.

Joining an outing club or a group like your local chapter of the AMC, Green Mountain Club or Adirondack Mountain Club is always a good way to meet people who can show you how to get started. You can also get help getting started from outdoor equipment companies like L.L. Bean with their “Walk-On Adventures” programs at many of their stores, REI with its Outdoor School, and EMS with its climbing, kayak and ski schools. All are good options.

But hiring a guide like Lucie makes it very personal. You get to dictate the schedule and the activities you desire. The guide provides the expertise to help you enjoy the adventure without worry. A good guide is well worth the price if you are exploring something new or an area that’s new to you.

We had perfect weather and snow conditions for the ski trip we had planned but she made it clear that she was well prepared with other options if Mother Nature didn’t cooperate. That willingness to go with what the client and the weather dictate makes her a great resource for individuals, but especially for families looking for adventure. Lucie, I discovered, is the mother of two beautiful kids, and a former cross-country ski instructor at both The Balsams Wilderness (which will be closed for the winter of 2011/12 and reopening in summer 2012) in nearby Dixville Notch, N.H and at Gunstock Nordic Center in Gilford, N.H. She also has other guides who work with her throughout the year. As a young mother herself, she’s particularly attuned to the needs of families with young kids. She operates trips throughout New Hampshire, almost year ‘round. In the summer, she specializes in canoeing, hiking, and biking.

This bawdy snow woman called to Barbara at the beginning of the trail. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

We wanted to take a day to celebrate spring in Vermont, and envisioned a morning of sweet cross-country skiing on sun-softened trails to the Trapp Family Lodge sugar house where we could watch maple sap boil then lick the new syrup drizzled on an ice cone. Sugar on snow is an annual tradition at sugarhouses across Vermont. The second half of our Spring celebration would be a gallery walk around Stowe Village in the afternoon sun.

Alas, the best laid plans are always at the mercy of New England weather.

When our ski day arrived, Vermont seemed to have mid-winter on its mind. The sun shone brightly, but the wind it was a-blowing and the temperature was in the low 20′s when we pulled into the Trapp’s parking lot at 9am. We picked our way over frozen snow to the cross country ski center to buy our trail passes and ask about conditions. But we needn’t have worried – the conditions were fantastic with a couple of inches of fresh snow sitting atop perfectly groomed trails! No need for waxless skis . . .

Not a drop of sap in the bucket on the Spring day that felt like Winter! (Barbara Thomke photo)

Our original plan – to ski to the sugar house located a few kilometers from the lodge – was quickly aborted. Sugaring had come to an abrupt halt. The sap, which usually runs fast in late March, was not even dripping. And the sugar house wasn’t running, either. In fact, it wasn’t even open and we were the only humans in sight except for a lone driver buzzing around the trails in a grooming machine. The day did not promise to warm up above freezing, the temperature needed for sap to flow and for gathering to begin.

But never mind. The ski trails were lovely in the cold sun, and the wind was just a whisper in the trees. We glided along for most of the morning, then returned to the center to change clothes to prepare for our gallery walk. Our cheeks were aglow from the exertion and our spirits were singing from the beauty and peace we had enjoyed in the woods.

The Green Goddess cafe at lunchtime. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

While waiting for our orders, we took our hot tea in hand and wandered around looking at the photos exhibited on the walls by none other than our own Pat Lyon-Surrey! Some of the photos captured scenes from Italy, Bali and backwoods Vermont, while others presented digitally arranged and blended collages and montages of stones, fruit, and flowers. Eye candy for the clientele (kudos to Pat!).

After finishing our lunch, our gallery walk began in earnest. There are, as near as we can count, 15 galleries accessible from Stowe Village’s sidewalks or the famous Stowe Recreation Path. You can hit them all with a gentle 4 to 5 mile walk.

Here is a profile of the galleries we visited in our afternoon wandering:

Barbara and her new horse in the sculpture park. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo).

West Branch Gallery & Sculpture Park, located by the west branch of the Little River. An indoor/outdoor space that promotes contemporary art in varied media by emerging and mid-career artists. Aside from their own collection, when we visited the gallery was featuring a joint exhibit by Susan Wahlrab and Marella Bisson titled Outside/New Visions of Nature. Wahlrab’s work featured lushly pigmented landscapes (printmaking and painting) with her newest work done on Clayboard. Marielle Bisson uses a mix of painting and collage techniques to create the effect of snowcapped mountains and rushing streams. We were captivated by both.

The Vermont Ski Museum, at One South Main Street (look for the traffic light at the junction of Route 100 and Route 108 in mid-town Stowe) is a happy place to relive the early days of skiing in Vermont and to celebrate Vermont’s skiing history. In the 1818 Old Town Hall, memorabilia from skis and boots to parkas and pins, and even a gondola bring the history of vermont skiing to life. We enjoyed a look at the exhibit called Lost Ski Areas of Vermont Remembered, finding some places near where we now live that we’d never heard of before! There are many ski documentaries shown on the front-and-center screen such as “Fire on the Mountain” that tells the history of the 10th Mountain Division or “Ski Sentinals” that tells the history of the National Ski Patrol. The attendant will gladly play the film of your request. Entry is by donation. Definitely worth a visit.

Even the exterior of the The Helen Day Art Center is a work of art. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The Helen Day Art Center is housed with the Stowe Library in a beautiful old building in the village on School Street. It is is a member-supported, community arts and education non-profit organization whose mission is to enhance the human experience through the visual arts. When we visited the East Gallery had an exhibit by two local artists, Gowri Savoor and Idoline Duke. Working in divergent styles and materials, both artists read messages and find meaning by exploring the patterns and forms of our natural world. Their shared passion for the environment is evident. Barbara and I were captivated by Savoor’s work which uses pine needles, maple seeds, nuts and cones to make three dimesional sculptures as well as large wall hangings.

At Stowe Craft & Design you'll find a constantly-changing variety of artworks and exhibits. (Stowe Craft & Design photo)

Stowe Craft & Design is on Route 108 just across from the covered walking bridge in the Village. Whee! There are more than 300 artists represented in jewelry, art, sculpture, furniture, traditional crafts, clothing and fun and unique gifts. The Pewter Pocket Angels captured Barbara’s attention and pocketbook – charming little quarter-sized tokens to keep or give as spur-of-the-moment gifts! The variety produced by Vermont craftspeople is outstanding.

Our gallery walk ended with a cup of coffee at a small cafe on Main Street where we rehashed what we saw and laughed at ourselves for hoping that the end of March would really bring spring to Vermont. After all, we had both lived here for 25 plus years . . . what were we thinking? We left Stowe that day feeling that despite the snow and cold we had welcomed spring back into our lives.

You don’t have to come to Stowe to have your own transition to spring in the outdoors. There’s a town or a city near you where you can combine a gallery walk with a stroll to see new daffodils and crocuses sprouting; or if you prefer, take that first-of-the-season bike ride. Spring is such a hopeful time of year–take advantage of its new sights and smells and the warmth of the sun even if the temperature is below freezing.

Then, inexplicably, on a beautiful Sunday in March, I somehow found myself driving into New Hampshire with Sam, my boyfriend and favorite snowboarding companion, on our way to go skiing at Waterville Valley Resort . I was a little nervous at the thought of putting on skis again, but knew I couldn’t be more nervous than Sam, who was going to try skiing for the first time ever.

My anticipation grew as we wound our way alongside the Mad River into the vast White Mountain National Forest, and up to Waterville Valley. The parking area was abuzz, a testament to the mountain’s popularity, but we had no problem finding a parking space and making our way to the Sport Thoma ski shop where we met Bobby Foster, the mountain’s director of operations, who told us a little about the mountain and resort area.

At the top of the High Country Double Lift, we gazed in awe at the White Mountain National Forest spread out around us. (Caroline McDonald photo)

The mountain was first opened in 1966 by Olympic skier Tom Corcoran, and has changed ownership a couple times since. Throughout the years, it’s hosted World Cup alpine races and, apparently, was a favorite destination of the Kennedy clan. Another political family, the Sununus, purchased the resort before the 2010/11 season began and are investing some local TLC into the mountain’s operation. But it’s not just the 25 new snowmaking guns or renovated bathrooms that show how much love is being invested. Where it’s really evident is in the people.

Bobby introduced us to our instructors, Lisa and Clarence, who took us around to get our rentals. Sam and I were impressed by the genuinely friendly folks we met on the way—from Mike in rentals who told us about the variety of equipment available to Joe, the tall Austrian man who helped us properly fit our boots. (“No pant cuffs in the boot. Make sure your heel is all the way to the back.”) Everyone was helpful and made the rental process as simple as possible. Before we knew it, we were headed to the bunny slope with skis tossed (very carefully!) over our shoulders.

Snowboarder rehab: Clarence teaches Sam how to click in to skis for the very first time! (Caroline McDonald photo)

These weren’t the long, straight skis I remembered  from my early years, but shaped skis, no taller than my shoulders. Now, I know Sam and I look youthful, but surely they realized we are full-grown adults! Lisa and Clarence explained the rationale behind the 124cm skis I was using. Ski technology and the way skiing is taught nowadays has changed for the better. With a shorter, shapelier ski, beginners can make easier turns and become comfortable with equipment that might otherwise feel pretty awkward.

Furthermore, we weren’t just given the skis and pushed off the top of a bunny slope. Lisa and Clarence introduced us to the most fundamental techniques before we even put the skis on. We learned that good skiers rotate their legs in their hip sockets and minimize upper body movement, and that weight is evenly distributed in the middle of the foot to use the whole edge of the ski. After practicing this for a bit, we were finally ready put our skis on.

Clarence and Lisa are both snowboarders as well as skiers, so they adjusted our ski lesson to use snowboarding concepts we already understood. Lisa, who is the assistant snowsports director and head of the ski school, explained that all lessons are customized this way whenever possible. Instructors adjust to the students’ comfort levels, so whether you’re just starting like Sam, or want to brush up on techniques like me, the ski school at Waterville can accommodate you.

For me, clicking into skis again felt  comfortable, like coming home. It seemed like I’d never “gone over to the dark side.”But the best part of my day wasn’t going on to nail the half-pipe or conquer one of the bumped-up black diamonds (although that would have been very cool!). The best  of my day was discovering what a joy it is to be with someone else as they learn to ski. The excitement someone else feels when they connect those first two turns and burst into a proud grin is infectious. Clarence and Lisa seemed to feel the same way I did as we watched Sam weave back and forth across the bunny slope, proving himself to be a natural skier.

Us with our fabulous instructors, Lisa and Clarence. (Caroline McDonald photo)

We spent another half hour on some tougher green slopes (lessons typically last an hour and 45 minutes) before we said goodbye to Clarence and Lisa, and took a well-deserved break. There are two restaurants at the base and another lodge halfway up the mountain. We opted for Buckets, Bones and Brews at the base, where we sat on the deck to enjoy the perfect weather and watch skiers and riders come down the mountain.

After refueling, we headed up the White Peak Express Quad to see the rest of the mountain. Although we stuck to the blue trails, the mountain offers a variety of terrain. There are plenty of wide, sweeping slopes, but also enough narrow, tree-lined trails to keep diehard New England skiers happy. Every trail felt different. There are also plenty of tougher blues interspersed with black diamonds, particularly at the top of the mountain , which Sam and I decided to leave for another day.

The snow quality was consistent and held up well despite the sun, with only minimal icy patches. A few trails were left  ungroomed, but most of what we skied was groomed. The bottom of the mountain really softened up as the sun continued shining in the afternoon, and made turning easy. Wearing only a shell, I was reminded of how pleasant spring skiing is.

Waterville has 12 lifts and more than 50 trails. We didn’t come close to skiing the entire mountain. Ideally, we would have stay in Waterville for a week or so, not just a day. Spring lift tickets are only $25 Monday through Friday, and they are currently offering one of the best lesson packages I’ve ever heard of—only $35 for their Learn to Ski & Ride Special!. To snag a good deal on Tuesdays, keep up with Waterville’s Twitter page, as they base the day’s ticket price on the predicted temperature posted there. Friday, April 1 will be the best day, though. Tickets will only be one dollar. (That’s $1. No joking!)

Should visitors somehow tire of skiing, the White Mountains also offer cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking. The town center close to the mountain’s base has a variety of lodging accommodations, restaurants, shops, a spa and even a hockey rink!

If we can’t make it back before the ski season ends, Sam and I definitely plan to make a trip up this summer. There’s camping, mountain biking and all sorts of activities for families. In fact, Waterville is the perfect place for my family from Tennessee to visit to see what the Northeast is all about. New Hampshire’s White Mountains would provide a wonderful break from Tennessee’s notoriously humid summers. It’s also an easy, quick getaway for Boston-area residents like Sam and me. At just under three hours, the drive lands you in a different world. Winter at Waterville (on skis!) was wonderful; and summer fun, here we come!

6 pieces, 10 ounces, amazingly flexible protection system! (David Shedd photo)

We’re a big fan of 3-piece glove/mitt systems for most outdoor pursuits.  Having an overmitt that provides maximum protection, yet comes off easily to give us greater dexterity, is a major help when setting up a winter camp, or when trying to take photos in the field. Having a thin liner glove as the third piece of the system allows for better moisture control and wicking, and lets us keep our hands away from direct contact with metal, snow, whatever, when we need even better tactile feel than the second layer gives us.  Plus, playing around with the combination allows us to fine tune for different temperatures.

However, there are usually a few different prices to pay. One, literally, is price; 3-piece systems tend to be relatively expensive, for obvious reasons.  Another is loss of dexterity when the whole mess is put together. Put several gloves inside each other, and you can usually expect it’ll get bulky and hard to grab with, compared with a single warm mitten. And, finally, a lot of glove systems are really hard to get on/off when you’re sweating and they’re moist inside.

Sometimes, though, things all come together as if the cosmos intended it all along.  And, combining Outdoor Research’s “Latitude” 2-piece combo with their PL100 liner glove feels like one of those cosmic coincidences. First things first…it’s hard to know that the Latitude is a 2-piece, because OR simply markets it as an “ultralight shell.” You have to read down farther to find out that it’s a shell AND a glove. Dumb marketing for a great product.  When OR calls the shell an ultralight, though, they aren’t kidding; it feels about as thick as a piece of wax paper. But don’t kid yourself; it’s not weak or flimsy. The material is tough, the palm is grippy, and it’s full featured: Strap across the back of the wrist to tighten it on, that you can operate with a mitten on the other hand?  Check. An “idiot cord” to keep the mittens attached to you when you take them off so you don’t drop them off the ski lift? Check (For the record, I don’t think I’m an idiot, but I use them all the time; too easy to have a wind take them miles away when you  put them down, since they’re so light!). OR’s excellent Duo-Cord gauntlet closure, that allows you to pull one tab to tighten them, one to loosen? Check. Pre-curved, so the palm doesn’t bunch up when you grab something? Check.

The PL100 liner (r) slides easily in and out of the Latitude liner glove, allowing for great dexterity and surprising warmth (David Shedd photo)

So, the mitten has the right stuff…how about the glove?  Well, let’s just say that they’re my current go-to glove for driving, working in the garage, etc.  True to OR’s obsessive-compulsive nature, they’re a surprisingly elaborate affair, with an inner fleece layer and an outer shell that’s grippy on the palm and fingers, slippery on the back.  Warmth is moderate; they’re 100 weight fleece inside the thin shell.  But, they’re surprisingly waterproof, making it possible to clean snow off the car with them and stay dry, and that makes them feel warmer than a glove that lets moisture in. And grip they have, in spades, along with seams that are nearly invisible to the fingers, giving great feel. They’re a great work glove, period. After a season of abuse, they’re showing some small signs of wear here and there, but still in great shape overall. That’s one of Outdoor Research’s claims to fame; if you need to trust something when you’re climbing a 20,000 footer, you know that their construction is impeccable.

Snowing, windy, and 0F in Quebec's Chic-Chocs mountains, but the Latitude/PL100 combination kept me plenty warm (Susan Marean photo)

So far, so good; great features, great feel, great fit. But, only moderate warmth. At 20 degrees F, that’s fine, but as the temps crawl down closer to zero, they just aren’t warm enough.  That’s where the PL100 liner comes in.  Made of OR’s 100 weight “Radiant Fleece”, they’re a smooth, silky-feeling, close fitting liner. A little thicker than the lightest liner gloves, they’re a LOT warmer, and surprisingly wind resistant. And, the fabric breathes well, making them easy to get on and off, and keeping them warm when you’re working hard; dry hands are warm(er) hands.

One characteristic of good liner gloves is that they’re slippery, helping them to conform to the gloves they’re sliding into; however, that creates its own problem. When you need maximum dexterity and strip down to the liner, you suddenly don’t have any significant grip; things slide out of your fingers.  Most liners offer an “all or nothing” approach; no grip at all, or the entire finger/palm area has added grip, effectively turning it from a liner glove to a standalone, since it won’t fit easily into another glove. OR’s solution is simple and surprisingly functional…put a bit of silicone on the first joint area of the thumb and forefinger.  It’s a smart compromise; the liner still slides easily in and out of the Latitudes, but if you have to pick a quarter off the ground, you can (hey, I’m of Scottish descent; picking up loose change is a religion!).

The added warmth of the PL100 dramatically increases the utility of the Latitude combination; while backcountry skiing on the Gaspe peninsula at a windy 0 degrees F., my hands remained comfortable. Even with multiple stops to take off the overmitt to shoot photos and video, my hands never came close to “real pain” ; a few arm windmills, and they were warm again.  For most of the photo shooting, I was able to leave both pairs of gloves on, yet still operate the small controls on my Olympus camera; that was both a surprise and a huge help to keep me warm (and waste less time…no fumbling to keep the gloves where they belonged while I got my shots, then get gloves on, mittens on…you get the picture).

Rolled up, the Latitude overmitts take up remarkably little space, giving an added margin of safety tucked into your emergency kit (David Shedd photo)

Flaws?  Really, only a couple. No, they’re not an expedition mitt; if you’re going to be fooling around at -35, you’re likely smart enough to know that you need a LOT more insulation than these offer. However, they can easily be adapted to handle colder weather.  Pick up a relatively inexpensive, oversized mitt (oversized, as in if you wear a large, buy an XL) with decent insulation (even cheapies use Thinsulate these days). Take off the thin OR overmitt, stick on the thick one…voila!  Not waterproof, but generally if it’s that cold you’re less worried about waterproof; we’re talking about staying warm as you sit in camp, or have lunch on a long, cold snowshoeing trek.  That’s a cheap solution that gives you almost infinite combinations to meet most conditions, and doesn’t add tons of weight.  Or, as a ski patrolman at Cranmore said to us as we rode up a lift together, “I have those same mitts, and I got some thick fleece mittens to put inside; I’ve never been cold in them yet!”  Options abound…use your imagination to get the combination that’s just right for you.

The only other flaw, as mentioned earlier, is the price of the system. The two-piece Latitude system rings up at $120; the PL100 adds another $26. Include tax or shipping, you’re looking at $150, a not-inconsiderable chunk of change. But, when you’re out snowshoeing at 10 degrees and slip in a creek crossing, would you rather have saved $50 on a lesser system, or know that the hand you just plunged into 34 degree water up to the wrist isn’t going to get soaked, then turn to a block of ice? There are areas that we’re more likely to cut corners, as they won’t compromise our safety (a good example is gaiters; OR’s are the industry standard, but if you need to save money somewhere, LL Bean’s “Winter Walkers” do the trick admirably, allowing you to better allocate your funds elsewhere).

Now, here’s a tip; we’ve just gotten word that OR is discontinuing this model, and replacing it next winter with a nod to their heritage, the Mt. Baker Modular (the original Mt. Baker was a landmark product for OR “in the day”).  The new setup will have more insulation in the liner glove, but will also cost about $20 more. I expect we’ll love those, but in the meantime, there may be retailers wanting to move these out, so keep your eyes open for bargains!  With luck, you could save enough to cover the cost of insulated overshells and have the best of ALL worlds.

I really love this job because I am rarely told “No.” Within a few days I was signed up for the race and had wrangled my good friend, Jim, into being my partner. (It didn’t take a lot of work. He can be as foolish and impulsive as me at times.) We were both excited. As outdoor enthusiasts and avid runner/hikers we felt we had the stamina to complete the race. The question was: Did we have the skills to actually compete against experienced adventure athletes?

Lack of skill has never stopped us from trying anything before. .  . .

Teams gather for pre-race information. (Brett Lund photo)

The Frigid Infliction is put on by the Green Mountain Adventure Racing Association (GMARA). We would compete in mutiple events, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, postholing (hiking through deep snow without snowshoes), and a Tyrolean traverse (pulling oneself across a suspended rope) all while navigating by map and compass. Teams of two or three individuals (coed or not) compete in divisions. The risk in having a two-person team is that if one of us could not continue, we’d be out of the race because at least two team members had to complete the course. Jim and I were already placing bets as to which one of us would drop out, but I was pleased to read on the GMARA website that the race was well suited to beginner adventure racers. I hoped I would not have to increase my life insurance policy.

The race registration was on Friday night at Bolton Valley Nordic Center, and we drove the two hours up I-89 through impressively deep snow; 14 inches was sticking to the trees as we navigated up the access road to Bolton.

Friday night’s registration included an equipment check, last-minute compass and navigation training, and some pre-race information. The race would start promptly at 5:00 Saturday morning and teams were instructed to arrive a half hour earlier to receive maps and more instructions. The mandatory gear list was laid out for us, and safety was obviously the order of the day. If you became lost or hurt, you needed to be prepared to be in the woods for a while until help arrived. And since all teams were required to carry the same safety items, no one team would have a weight advantage.

Jim near the first checkpoint. (Brett Lund photo)

We had a comfortable room at Bolton’s slopesside Hotel, but we hardly saw the room. So-called “morning” (3:45, yikes!) came much too early. But the competitive juices kicked in, and we were wide awake and ready to race by the time we arrived at the Nordic Center to receive pre-race instructions. Not having done an adventure race before, I had no idea that there would be so little time to review the map prior to starting. Topographical maps and Bolton Valley Nordic Center maps were handed out with race instructions. At this point competitors were given about 10 minutes to develop a plan.

For the first leg, we would compete on snowshoes to find three check points designated on our maps in any order. Jim and I quickly decided to climb to the highest checkpoint first, so that we could move quickly downhill to the next two after locating the first.

Running between checkpoints would be our main advantage. (Brett Lund photo)

After the mass start, the pack quickly broke into three groups. A third of our group had a similar game plan. While out of practice with compass navigation, I knew enough to get us into the right area, then compared the topos of the Nordic Center to help us generalize the location of the checkpoint. Teams with strong compass skills had a distinct advantage in the dark: using observable topography was challenging at best. But as long as you can get close, being observant can help you find the checkpoint.

Checkpoint marker with hole punch dangling. Brett Lund Photo

Much of the traveling took place on Nordic Center trails, though finding the checkpoints would require off-trail navigation. When we felt we were in the right general location, we dove into the woods, and up a hill to eventually locate the first checkpoint. At each of these checkpoints there is an orange “box” flag suspended from a tree. Each has a unique hole punch tool to mark check cards and these are examined by race officials at the finish to determine what checkpoints were found. After checkpoint one, we sped off to the second and third. Running with snowshoes is not too difficult if you are a runner to begin with, and this worked to our advantage. While the second point took time to find, the third was easy as it was in a creekbed. After the three, we high-tailed it back to the start and the first of five transitions.

Transition area 1. Snowshoe to cross- country skis. (Brett Lund photo)

After lashing our snowshoes to our backpacks, we set out on cross-country skis to find three more checkpoints. Two hours had passed, and we were doing surprisingly well.

The next three points had to be found in order, and they would be just off of the cross-country trail system. Comparing topo to trail map made compass work almost unnecessary for this leg. However, these points were a greater distance apart, and we would need to make good course decisions to speed our team along. Again we reached the first point quickly, then prepared to race downhill and across some challenging ski trails to the second point. Cross country skiing on steep and tight terrain can be tough, but add a 25-pound pack to the mix, and it can be VERY challenging. Jim had warned me before the race that skiing would be his Achilles heel. But he showed a lot of grit and determination by repeatedly getting up and dusting himself off after numerous face plants (thank goodness for the 14 inches of new powder!) Made for some great laughs, though.

A fellow competitor checks his map at a transition. (Brett Lund photo)

While we were able to find our three points, we had lost some ground to iced-up bindings and a decision to try an untracked “shortcut” to the third point. Breaking trail can be exhausting, even when you share the task with other teams; by ourselves, it really slowed us down.

During the ski leg we saw much of the Bolton Valley Nordic Center’s expansive and varied trail system. They offer groomed terrain for skate skiers and narrow winding trails for backcountry enthusiasts. I found myself wishing we had more time to just explore.

Jim tackes the Tyrolean traverse. Holy burning forearms! - Brett Lund photo

The next transition put us back on snowshoes for the route to  the Tyrolean traverse (a rope strung tightly across a gulley). Required equipment included a climbing harness and two carabiners for each racer. Using the harness and carabiners, you clip yourself onto the rope, and pull yourself across upside down, with your pack on. This is easy to start, but after you reach the lowest point, you begin pulling uphill, which is a workout. The distance was relatively short, and both Jim and I were across in no time.

The next portion of the race was “postholing.”  Try walking through deep snow with no snowshoes and you get the idea. At times you stay on top, and at times you “post hole” when you break through up to your knees or even thighs. This is where it helped to be back in the pack—we had plenty of teams in front of us to make the travel easier. However, this is also the point in the race where fatigue had begun to set in, and even a simple task can seem difficult.

Once we collected markers from the next three checkpoints, we again transitioned to snowshoes to find the final five checkpoints. Now, time was the issue; we had to finish by 3 p.m, and a costly navigation mistake forced us to miss the last two checkpoints and make a beeline to the last transition area.

Do I have enough energy to chew? Fueling up at the final checkpoint. - Brett Lund photo

When we encountered other teams it was obvious that everyone was fatigued. After nine hours of practically non-stop exercise, my legs were heavy. For the last, long, uphill slog to the finish, Jim opted for snowshoes , while I hopped on my skis. There was no real feeling of “racing” at this point, just a need to finish. A lot of teams were bunched together. We would have no idea how many checkpoints our competitors had found until after the race. We would just have to hope that our combination of checkpoints and time on the course would give us a respectable finish. But truthfully, just finishing would give us plenty of self respect!

We crossed the line at just over 10 hours, and quickly realized that even walking to the car would be a challenge. Thankfully, a hot shower, a hot tub and a small bar awaited in the Nordic Center.

Finished!!! Can someone carry us to the car? Please. (Courtesy photo)

It’s true, this race can be completed by beginners in generally good physical condition. But Jim half jokingly told me not to bother calling in the next six weeks about any adventure races or he’d hang up on me. I think it was the lactic acid talking. Personally I wasn’t sure I would be able to walk for the next six weeks!

Despite the good-natured grumbling though, we both know we’ll be back for next year’s challenge. We’d like to extend a big thanks to GMARA for an exceptional job putting this race together, and to Bolton Valley, whose wondeful terrain and trail system  made for a perfect location.

Editor’s Note: What Brett is too modest to tell you is that Team EasternSlopes.com finished fourth out of 10 teams in their division with an adjusted time of 10:10:18. Congratulations Brett and Jim! For complete results of this year’s race, go here

Take one cross-country skier, attach one dog that likes to pull and you have the instant fun of skijoring. (Tim Jones photo)

Here in the northeast, Winter lasts until the end of March, mid-April in a good year.

Why not enjoy it? Snow is an invitation to get outdoors and play. And in late February through all of March the days are long, often warm, the snow is deep and it really is the best of Winter.

Here are some ideas:

Sled: The perfect Active Outdoors sport for a late winter afternoon. All you need is a hill and a sled. The late winter snowpack is settled and dense, perfect for sledding (and making it a lot easier to climb up the hills!). Cheap plastic sleds work fine. If you want to get fancy, get an Airboard or Hammerhead.

Snow Tube: If you like sliding down but don’t like climbing up, most ski hills these days offer lift-serviced snowtubing. For a few bucks you get an hour or two of cheap thrills, no lessons required. Try it under the lights on a warm, late-winter evening.

The author tries snowbiking for the first time. It's easy and great fun. (Pats Peak photo)

Snowbike: It’s the easiest way you’ll ever carve a ski slope. You sit on bike with skis instead of wheels, wear tiny skis on your feet, and tilt your head to one side or the other to turn and stop. Yes, it’s that easy. Pats Peak in Henniker, NH (www.patspeak.com/snowbike.htm) rents the bikes and offers lessons.

Snowscoot: This one is a mystery, but Mont Sutton in Sutton, Quebec (just across the border from Vermont) rents them. It’s apparently similar to a Snowbike but with wider skis (more like snowboards) you can stand on while you hold the handlebars. Gotta try it!

Snowshoe: If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Period. Snowshoes are the ATV’s of the winter world. Deep powder snow can make for tough for off-trail snowshoeing, but perfect snowshoeing on snowmobile trails and cross-country ski trails. When the snow has settled you can go anywhere. Most outdoor shops and cross-country ski areas rent snowshoes. If you’ve never tried it, what are you waiting for?

On a late winter day with blue sky above and plenty of snow. Why would anyone wish for spring? (Tim Jones photo)

XC ski-“Classic”: I just got a letter from a reader who tried cross-country skiing for the first time last Sunday. She’s totally hooked, can’t wait to go again. As she says “Picking up cross-country skiing is incredibly simple!” “Classic” or touring skis let you ski in the prepared tracks of a ski area (go to www.xcski.org for a pretty complete resort finder), or out on the golf course near your house.

XC ski-Skate: Skate skiing needs groomed trails, but it’s faster and even better exercise than “Classic” cross country. Unless you are a really good classic skier, don’t try this without a lesson. But it sure is fun!

If you drive the sled, dogsledding is a great winter sport. (Tim Jones photo)

Dogsled: Not the “tourist” variety where they bundle you in a sled and drag you around for an hour, but one where you help hook up the dogs and drive the sled. Try Mahoosuc Guide Service in Newry, Maine or Song In The Woods near Moosehead Lake in Maine.

Skijor: Dogsledding without the sled. Take one cross-country skier, attach one dog who likes to run. Instant fun. Peacepups and Eden Mountain Lodge in Vermont both give excellent lessons.

Nordic Skate: Skating on natural ice with long skates and cross-country ski boots. Late-winter melts and re-freezes can produce superb ice conditions. Nordic Skater can rent you gear and point you toward safe ice.

Thaws and re-freezes can produce wonderful Nordic skating in late winter. (Tim Jones photo)

That’s 10 ideas you can try this weekend. You could also go ice climbing, winter mountaineering, winter camping (this is absolutely the best time of the winter for that!), kite skiing, backcountry skiing, Telemarking, Randonee racing . . . you get the idea.

You can’t change the weather, so change your attitude, Instead of making yourself miserable yearning for warmer weather, enjoy the snow and cold while we still have it. Think of it this way: Winter is a joy to be savored as long as possible.

The Fuller Family pauses on the trail for a quick hug

“Once you pass Bangor and start north, it’s a whole different Maine,” said Mark Shea, Director of Marketing and the Ski School at Bigrock Ski Area in Mars Hill, Maine. “How true”, I thought, after spending a day or two learning about the wonders of “The County.” When skiing at Mars Hill was first mentioned, I had to look up where in the world it was. I admit, I wondered if there was really family skiing in Aroostook County. I knew it was famous for its snowmobiling and World Cup Biathlons, but didn’t realize what awaited. But, after three days up there, I’m now asking myself how I’ll have room to write about all the opportunities for active sports in “The Crown of Maine,” a nickname awarded Aroostook both for its geographic location and for the abundance of outdoor recreation.

The largest county east of the Mississippi, Aroostook is 6453 square miles; larger than the states of Rhode Island and Connecticut combined, yet with a population of under 70,000. Initially, I thought it a bit presumptuous that Aroostook was referred to as “The” county. After spending time there, though, I realized the region has earned this respect.

A four and a half hour drive from our home in Yarmouth, ME, the trip to Aroostook County is hardly a one-tank adventure. Plan at least three days to make the drive worthwhile. Don’t worry, there’s plenty of active outdoor recreation, from world-class Nordic skiing trails to family-friendly ski areas, all centered around The County’s hub in Presque Isle.

We started our trip with the obligatory lunch stop at Dysart’s Truck Stop, renowned for its home-cooked food and large portions. As much of a roadside attraction as a restaurant, Dysart’s offers food that’s tasty, unpretentious, and affordable. Despite the pleas from the kids, we passed on “The 18 Wheeler”: 18 scoops of ice cream, bananas and strawberries, all dripping with chocolate and caramel sauce. The reward for one person finishing this monster: another free sundae!

Family travel requires large doses of patience and plenty of flexibility.  The one thing you can count on is the unexpected. When we left home, our oldest was complaining of a sore throat. By the time we got to Presque Isle, it was clear she had the flu. She spent the entire trip in bed, missing every moment of joy that The County brought the rest of the family.  No fair!

You start seeing glimpses of Bigrock from miles away. (Marti Mayne photo)

You start seeing glimpses of Bigrock from at least 10 miles away, but it’s not the hill as much as what’s atop. More than 20 enormous wind turbines dot the ridge top, generating enough renewable energy to power 20,000 homes per year, according to owners, First Wind Mars Hill.

While we’re early risers, moving three people with all the boots, poles, skis and gear from point A to point B is always a process. Our plans to arrive at Bigrock Ski Area for the first chair were dashed. Yet, we soon learned there was no need to worry about getting first tracks!  At 10am we counted only 20 or so cars in the parking lot. Amazed, we looked around for the second lot where all the people must be parked, but it wasn’t there! We appreciated the short walk from the parking lot to the base lodge, and marveled at how time stood still at this compact ski area.

The base lodge was abuzz with skiers who all seemed to know one another. I couldn’t help but feel that we’d walked into a private ski club, with a vintage lodge and very friendly people. Little did I realize what was in store.  We skied the entire morning on seemingly untouched groomed runs. Once in a while we saw another skier, but for the most part, the mountain was our own private playground, or at least it felt that way.  For this urban family, accustomed to standing in lift lines and looking over our shoulders for passing skiers and boarders, Bigrock was paradise! We skied onto the double chairlift for run upon run, each time marveling about our own “private” mountain. Liftlines  (never exceeding 12 people) did form later in the afternoon. Apparently, this is a region of later risers…at least they hit the trails later.

Lincoln Fuller enjoyed the teeter-totter in the terrain park.

Classic New England skiing is the best description for most of the trails that wind and undulate down the mountain. Early in the day, we discovered Elbow and Snake , aptly named for the twists and turns, banked sides and fun sprints through the woods. These  soon became our youngest daughter’s favorites as we skied in and out of these trails, many of which connect to wider slopes with names like Comet and Uncle Bud’s. The Chairlift Run offered steeps and moguls. We enjoyed skiing the Ho Chi Minh Trail (named among the top ten ski trails in Maine by skiwriter Heather Burke), an expert trail that ebbed and flowed down the right side of the mountain. My daughter delighted in hitting the terrain park and repeated her first-ever change on the rails over and over again.

She made it look so easy, I had to take my turn at one of the wider rails. Bad idea. My knees just aren’t as young as I’d like to believe they are, and I took my first fall of the year. Lucky for me, I had the camera, so that stunt wasn’t preserved for posterity.

While often mistaken as two words, Bigrock is just one word, explained Mark Shea. We learned from Shea that while Maine Winter Sports Center helps support the mountain, they rely as much as possible on ticket sales and community support for funding (MWSC also owns Black Mountain of Maine in Rumford, which has both Nordic and downhill skiing). Hugely supportive of community skiing, Bigrock’s free ski nights from 4-9 pm on Wednesdays offer everyone from the youngest to the oldest skiers the opportunity to enjoy a complimentary night of skiing once a week. Add in $15 rentals and $5 lessons, and it’s no surprise that so many children launch their skiing career at Bigrock.

In a “normal” year, Aroostook County averages 160 inches of snowfall. 2010/11 was an anomaly with a virtual snow drought in December and January. Then the region received 40” of snow in ten days in late January and early February. This has been one of their biggest snowmaking years at Bigrock. In fact, when other New England Nordic Centers were bare at Thanksgiving, Bigrock made snow and groomed trails for XC skiers training for the upcoming World Cup Biathlon competition held nearby at the Nordic Heritage Center in Presque Isle.  That snow served as the ski area’s base all season. Shea expects to repeat this effort year after year to support the Nordic skiing in the region.

We enjoyed the home cooked lunch and marveled that $11.00 fed our family of three including bowls of steaming chili, French fries, a hot dog and drinks. A homemade whoopie pie brought a smile to my daughter’s face and helped to confirm that perhaps it should be Maine’s official dessert.

We concluded the day by participating in the Sundae Relays (no, that’s not a typo!) hosted each Sunday at Bigrock.  The promise of a free sundae motivated our youngest and my husband to participate in the Human Slalom Race down the Bunny Slope, along with 25 or so other skiers. As we left, my daughter said “Mama, who needs a big mountain when they have a Bigrock?”  Little did she realize what she was in for next.

Nordic Heritage Ski Center

Day two of our trip opened with a bluebird sky and the nearly zero temps Aroostook is known for.  We started our day at Mojo Sports on Main Street in Presque Isle. With a decided focus on Nordic skiing, Mojo Sports offers the most extensive selection of Nordic ski equipment of any retail location I’ve seen in Maine. “One thing you won’t find here is snowmobiling gear,” explained Mark Fullen, Mojo’s manager,who remains steadfast in his mission to encourage active outdoor recreation despite the demand for snowmobile accessories. A small selection of alpine ski gear, plus a wide array of snowshoes, layered systems for warmth, and outdoor footwear round out the winter offerings in addition to the wide Nordic selections. In the summertime, the focus turns to biking, along with kayaks, clothing, and footwear.

Nordic gear and apparel, snowshoes, bikes and more at Mojo Sports.

With more than 400 pairs of rental skis, the community and schools are well served by Mojo Sports. We were outfitted with rental skis, poles and boots, and off we went with Fullen’s directions to the Nordic Heritage Center, home to the 2011 World Cup Biathlon event. Even from the parking lot, it is clear this facility is world class. The impeccably groomed trails, the stadium with grandstands and the welcoming lodge with leather couches, fieldstone fireplace, restrooms and a sauna, are clearly above and beyond anything I’ve ever seen downstate. What’s even more astounding is the trails are free and open to the public 6am – 10pm. During the season, they are lighted from 4pm to 9pm. Operated and supported by Maine Winter Sports, this world class facility is available for anyone free of charge. And what a gem it is!

The lodge also serves as a museum for Nordic skiing’s Swedish heritage. Nordic skiing was first introduced to Aroostook County in the 1870s when families were recruited from Stockholm, Sweden to settle in the area. They brought the Nordic tradition with them and used their skis for transportation as much as recreation. That Swedish heritage of Nordic skiing is captured in intriguing displays of antique skis and photos throughout the lodge.

Lincoln and Kim Han Fuller try out their skis from Mojo Sports at Nordic Heritage Center.

We tried out our skis, as my husband explained how the Biathlon competition works, combining cross-country ski racing with precision target shooting.

While I’ve cross- country skied in the past, it’s been a few years. I felt every one of my 50-something years as I struggled to maintain control on the skinny skis. We found some classic tracked trails, with soft snow where I regained an iota of confidence, but once on untracked, hardpack trails, I struggled. My youngest daughter, an intrepid Nordic skier, offered tips, lessons, and uncontrollable laughter when I fell. “I’m sorry Mama,” she said, “but you just looked like a bowling ball back there on the ground!,” she managed to say in-between laughing fits. A biathlete I will never be, I concluded, threatening to bid XC skiing farewell for another ten years. (Though I’m not sure my family will let me escape . . .)

As we were leaving, five buses arrived with Nordic ski teams from Portland, Auburn, Oxford Hills, and Leavitt. We had the opportunity to watch talented high school skiers practice for the Class A Maine State Championships scheduled to commence the next day. “ If only I’d started Nordic skiing back then,” I thought.

Quoggy Jo

We left the Nordic Heritage Center and drove to neighboring Quoggy Jo Ski Area. Literally next door,  the upper trails connect these ski centers.  Also supported by Maine Winter Sports, Quoggy Jo is family heaven, offering the shortest walk from parking lot to lodge of any of Maine’s ski areas, and Maine’s lowest cost skiing. I was compelled to take a picture of the $8 lift ticket sign.  The warmth from the fireplace in the one-room lodge was rivaled only by the wonderfully friendly staff at Quoggy Jo. This ski area takes community to the next level; everyone who skis there knows one another, and if they don’t they will by the end of the day. The T-Bar attendant calls children by name, and Donna Dean, Quoggy Jo’s co-manager, knows each of their life stories.

Friendly and fun lift operators at Quoggy Jo

Dean explained that a family can ski for as little as $200 all winter if they buy their seasons pass before Christmas. After that, the price goes up to $230. The price is the same for a family of three or a family of 17. Rentals are $12 and come complete with helmets. While there is no recognized ski school at Quoggy Jo, there are plenty of high school and college-aged helpers who will willingly take new skiers out on the mountain to show them the ropes. A number of tiny skiers negotiated the T-Bar with family and “helpers.”

Accessed by one T-Bar, Quoggy Jo offers six trails and 215 vertical feet of pure bliss. Although we were there in the afternoon, there wasn’t one run where I didn’t discover fresh corduroy laid by the area’s single Pisten Bully groomer. There’s no snowmaking here; skiers are entirely dependent on Mother Nature, which meant Quoggy Jo’s season started late this year.

This was my daughter’s first experience with a T-Bar and it was as much an attraction to the mountain as the skiing. Never one to be intimidated, she skied right up to the lift line and awaited the T-Bar, reciting the instructions not to sit down.  She made at least ten runs without a mishap, and insisted on riding alone to prove she could do it. When she left, she declared her favorite part of the day was skiing Quoggy Jo.  “Sunday River needs to add a T-Bar!,” she declared.

Ski & Stay

The pool at Presque Isle Inn & Convention Center is a great gathering spot for kids.

We discovered the Presque Isle Inn and Convention Center, Aroostook’s most family-friendly accommodations.  More hotel than inn, this facility is friendly, comfortable and complete. A 10,000 square foot fitness facility is complemented by a large indoor pool. The hotel offers not one but two restaurants – Gram Russo’s, a fine Italian restaurant, and Frankie’s Lounge, offering lighter fare. In addition, Connections, a nightclub with live music – offers entertainment for night owls.

Kevin Simmons, owner and General Manager, purchased the hotel ten years ago, bringing it out of receivership and renovating it one section at a time (his first change was to remove all the shag carpeting). We were given the choice between a newly renovated room with two full beds and an “unrenovated suite” with a King bed. Not knowing quite what to expect from a room described as “unrenovated”, we were pleasantly surprised to find a spacious room, with perfectly acceptable décor and a whirlpool tub. We later learned that the term “unrenovated” means that the room’s second renovation is scheduled next. We chose the “unrenovated” and were thrilled with the spaciousness, double vanity sinks, flat panel TV and easy wi-fi connection.  We settled right in, along with the snowmobilers who dominated the guest list here.

Breakfast is served daily in Gram Russo’s Restaurant. Choose the “Express Breakfast” from a menu of six or seven items including breakfast sandwiches, enormous muffins, toasted bagel or homemade toast with juice and coffee, and your breakfast is free. Go for a larger breakfast entrée like Eggs Benedict or omelets, and $3 per entrée is taken off the bill for inn guests.

The pool offered the perfect apres ski activity for young children with endless energy, along with the fitness center, offering just about every kind of exercise machine imaginable, as well as a range of classes.

Take advantage of ski-and-stay packages and enjoy a day at Bigrock and an evening at Presque Isle Inn and Conference Center. This family and pet-friendly hotel makes the perfect base for enjoying active recreation in Aroostook, and if you’re staying in Caribou, the Caribou Inn and Conference Center, a sister property, is a great choice too.

When You Go

Presque Isle Inn & Conference Center, 142 guest rooms, executive suites and two-room extended stay suites with kitchenettes, pool, fitness facility, restaurants, night club and more.  116 Main Street, Presque Isle, ME, 04769, 800-533-3971, www.presqueisleinn.com .

Bigrock Ski Area, Maine’s 7th largest ski area.  980 vertical drop, 27 trails, night skiing, racing and family events, welcoming base lodge.  37 Graves Road, Mars Hill, ME  04758, 207-425-6711, www.bigrockmaine.com .

Mojo Sports, Presque Isle’s only active sports retailer offering a full range of Nordic equipment, apparel and accessories plus snowshoes, outdoor apparel and footwear, bikes and much more. 719 Main Street, Presque Isle, ME  04769, 207-760-9500, www.mojooutdoorsports.com (Note: website under construction at time of story, soon to be up and running).

Nordic Heritage Center, home to the World Cup Biathlon, 2011 this stately facility offers free trail access on 20 km of impeccably maintained trails for XC skiers, hikers and snowshoers, a 6500 square foot lodge with sauna, 26 separate wax rooms, gathering space, 30 point biathlon range and 1 km skate ski loop. In the summer, mountain bikes are welcomed on 20 miles of marked mountain bike trails. A welcome center, open Tuesday – Sunday, offers some rentals. 450 Fort Road, Presque Isle, ME 04769, 207-762-6972, www.nordicheritagecenter.org.

Quoggy Jo, 215 vertical drop, six trails, community and family oriented ski area.  All natural snow, friendly base lodge, rentals available. Fort Fairfield Road, Presque Isle, ME 04769, 207-764-3248, http://www.skimaine.com/areas/quoggyjo.

For more information and complete vacation planning advice including lodging, dining, recreation and shopping ideas, contact Aroostook County Tourism at Northern Maine Development Commission, 207-498-8736, www.visitaroostook.com.

Video: watch?v=HxxOqiOFVlQ

Dan gains momentum on skate skis as he and Sam head down one of the bigger hills. Don't be afraid to get some speed, bend your knees, and enjoy the ride! (Caroline McDonald photo.)

Sometimes, you have to move beyond your comfort zone to find outdoor adventure. In this case, my comfort zone was my own bed . . . . 8 o’clock on a Sunday morning rolls around early for everyone, but particularly for college students like me. However, the prospect of snapping into cross-country skis for the first time was more than enough to get me out of bed and moving. Who isn’t excited by the idea of trying out a new sport? Especially when the weather is promising, and two of your best friends are joining you. I roused those friends, Dan and Sam, and we were off to Weston Ski Track, a municipal golf course converted into a winter sports playground conveniently located just outside of Boston. From where I live in Boston’s South End, it’s a quick, 20-minute drive, but is also accessible via the T’s Green Line, D train.

I arrived having no idea what to expect from cross-country skiing and desperately hoping it wasn’t too different from the Alpine skiing I grew up with. One glaring difference became immediately apparent: the price. While a day of downhill skiing with rentals will typically cost you upwards of seventy-five dollars, a whole day of cross-country skiing at Weston requires only a $15 trail pass and another $15 for rentals, including boots, skis or snowshoes, and poles. That’s affordable for almost anyone, even impoverished college kids.

The friendly staff at the rental desk quickly helped us gear up. I was shocked by how thin and lightweight cross-country skis are compared to the downhill skis I’m accustomed to. The boots are also infinitely more comfortable than Alpine ski boots. Cross-country ski boots look and feel like a stiffer version of Air Jordans which were popular in the 80s and are making a comeback now.

Cross country skis are affordable to rent at Weston. They are lightweight and much less intimidating than downhill skis. (Caroline McDonald photo)

My fear of being the obvious amateur was unfounded. Snow enthusiasts of all skill levels visit Weston. While seasoned triathletes were just finishing the last stretch of a race, my friends and I were lacing up our rental boots next to a toddler in a one-piece, yellow snow outfit. I figured if he was out there, anyone could be.

Armed with skis, boots, and height-appropriate poles, plus a trail map, Dan, Sam and I hit the snow. Weston has a flat beginner area ( the cross-country equivalent of a bunny slope)  right outside the door for anyone who wants to ease into the day. I wanted to take one of the beginner lessons Weston  offered, but my friends, who had cross-country skied before, insisted I didn’t need one. They were right! I’ll take a lesson next time to improve my form and efficiency now that I know how much fun it is.

Falling down doesn't hurt. It just makes for funny photos! (Caroline McDonald photo)

Cross-country turned out to be nothing like Alpine skiing. Basic or “classic” cross-country skiing is incredibly simple and easy to learn. I’m sure the lessons are beneficial, especially if you are nervous about trying new things, but I had fun figuring it out myself on my first day. I followed the best and most basic athletic advice my dad ever gave me: “bend your knees!” It served me well that day, and now I pass it on to you for your first cross-country ski experience. Thanks, Dad!.

The lightweight cross-country skis and boots allow you to walk  in them right away. Our skis had scales on the bottom which let us walk right up the gentle hills. What a triumphant feeling when you reach the top, take a look around at the snowy hills, and then gleefully slide down! Even though this was my first experience, I was able to keep up with Dan and Sam.

After exploring the track closest to the lodge for a warmup, we ventured across a rustic wooden bridge over the frozen Charles River and skied on the more remote Goat and Fox Tracks. A few houses are visible through the trees here, but otherwise I could hardly believe we were only 20 minutes from the bustling South End.

One of the great things about Weston is that the low-cost rental fee allows you to try any of the sports offered. After about an hour and a half, Dan traded in his “classic” cross-country skis for skate skis. I’d never seen or even heard of skate skis before visiting Weston! Their name is self-explanatory; wearing them, you skate with the same diagonal stride as ice skating. They are speedier than cross-country skis, and can provide more of a cardiovascular workout if you so desire. Trying them out myself looks like a good excuse to go back.

After Dan’s adventure on skate skis, we couldn’t resist trying snowshoeing, too. But first we stopped to nosh on the delicious, cheap food offered by a little tiki hut outside of the lodge. Yes, you read correctly: delicious and cheap food at a ski lodge! I didn’t know such a thing existed! Weston offers a serious change-up from typical ski-lodge food: everything from Kosher hot dogs to homemade coleslaw. I bought a fresh, Mediterranean salad, and Dan indulged in a skewer of grilled lamb ($7.50!). Properly nourished, we geared up for snowshoeing.

The snowshoes let us take on the tallest, iciest hill we could find. (Caroline McDonald photo)

As a new adventurer, I was delighted to discover that if you can walk, you can snowshoe. Except for digging your spikes into the sides of hills, there isn’t much to it. The fun of clunking around in our new footwear, scaling icy hills, and, in my case, slipping down them on my rear, masked our exhaustion for a while, but eventually we realized it was time to head home.

Weston is an energetic, and friendly ski area, a real urban oasis. Renting your gear  is easy, the people are nice. A friendly staff member even offered us advice for an upcoming camping trip we are all planning.

I ended my day feeling invigorated by my wind-burnt cheeks and sore muscles. I couldn’t wait to share my experience with anyone who’d listen. Imagine, a cheap day of fun outdoor exercise readily available just outside of Boston! I can’t wait for my next trip back to try out skate skis! I’m going to drag some more of my friends out of their comfort zone and get them to try it, too. Want to join us?

The trail into Little Lyford is mostly flat and smooth. On this blue sky-day it felt like heaven, especially knowing the comforts that awaited ahead. (Tim Jones photo)

Imagine this for a winter getaway: You drive to Greenville, Maine, which is, by most people’s standards, pretty darned remote. No, make that very remote. From the center of Greenville, you take Pleasant Street and drive out past the airport, past the last house and drive 11 miles more. Where the road ends, you park your car, stow your luggage in a little shed, then put on your  cross-country skis or snowshoes, and trek 6 to 10 miles (depending on the trail you choose to your destination).  Remember when Greenville seemed remote? Yeah, THIS is remote . . .

But wait a minute, don’t start thinking about snowcaves and winter survival. At the end of this trail, many, many miles into the winter wilds, you’ll find your luggage waiting for you. Even better, you’ll find a cozy cabin with a comfy bed and the woodstove already going. Better still, you’ll find  hot showers, a sauna, and a beautiful lodge building where they serve a scrumptious dinner that evening, breakfast the next morning and put out the makings for a hearty lunch to eat on the trail as you spend the day exploring around the “camp” or  trek another 6 to 10 miles to another equally remote and comfortable outpost.

The cabins and lodge at Little Lyford Pond are warm and inviting at the end of the trail. (Tim Jones photo)

That’s precisely the experience available at the three AMC Maine Wilderness Lodges and their partner operation West Branch Pond Camps. You can stay at any one of these wilderness refuges, or ski from camp to camp to camp to camp. I heartily recommend the experience for anyone who wants a real taste of true winter wilderness and (most of) the comforts of a fine hotel.

My sweetheart Marilyn and I just got back from a three-night, four-day adventure skiing camp-to-camp. We started with a six-mile ski into Little Lyford Pond Camp. I’ve visited Little Lyford three times before, once in the spring for their excellent brook trout fishing, twice before in the winter. Once, I got to be part of the very first camp-to-camp ski experience and once to watch the annual 100-Mile Wilderness Sled Dog Race.

Marilyn’s been nursing a knee injury all winter and we did the trek into Little Lyford very slowly. Once you are away from the parking lot (which sits high on a hill), the trail is mostly flat, always well groomed, and pretty easy, especially since you aren’t carrying a heavy pack. In other words, you don’t have to be a hero to do these treks. And, if you get an early start, there’s no need to hurry.

The weather was perfect for cross country skiing with cloud-dotted blue skies and temps in the mid 20s. When we arrived, our cabin was warm and cozy and we pulled a few icicles from the roof for Marilyn to ice her knee.

Dinner that night was baked haddock. We are eating gluten-free these days and the cook bent over backwards to accommodate our preferences serving ours perfectly done with lemon butter. Just let them know your needs and preferences (meals are planned well in advance) and they’ll take care of you.

The trail from Lyford to Gorman Chairback is just a little less than 7 miles long. There are a few hills but it's perfect for skiing with a light pack and working up an appetite for a great dinner. (Tim Jones photo)

The next morning, we faced a longer, somewhat more challenging trail to the brand-new Gorman Chairback Camp, which was slated to open that very day. We were talking about the trail with Chuck, the manager at Lyford. Chuck heard Marilyn voicing her concerns about her knee on the hillier, longer trail and offered to shuttle her by snowmobile when he took luggage over. She gratefully accepted the ride. Incidentally, snowmobile taxi service is available by prior arrangement for anyone who needs it (which makes the camps accessible to almost anyone), but private snowmachines are banned from the camp and the surrounding trail system.

Another option is to travel by dogsled. Mahoosuc Guide Service schedules several camp-to-camp dogsled adventures each winter. These are real hands-on adventures where the clients help care for the dogs, hook up and drive the dog teams.

While Marilyn rode on the snowmobile, I joyfully skied from Lyford to Gorman with new friends Jim and Alison. This pair are former marathoners, had already skied from Medawisla to West Branch Pond Camps, to Little Lyford on the preceding days, so this was old hat to them. They didn’t exactly set a leisurely pace, but they kindly didn’t try to kill me, either. The trail (just short of seven miles) wanders through lovely woodlands and snow conditions were a perfect 10. From the tracks, it seemed we just missed seeing a moose.

Our destination, the new Gorman Chairback Camp is simply stunning. There are eight lovely log cabins arrayed along the lakeshore, each with comfortable beds and a woodstove. There’s also a beautiful new energy-efficient lodge with indoor plumbing, showers and a sauna. This building was literally getting its finishing touches as we skied up.

The lodge at Gorman Chairback Camp in the wilds of Maine was getting its finishing touches as we arrived. It's energy-efficient and simply beautiful. They serve wonderful meals here, too—welcome after a sauna and hot shower at the end of a day of skiing! (Tim Jones photo)

Despite the fact that we were the very first guests, everything ran smoothly. The food was wonderful at every meal and the camp staff couldn’t have been nicer or more helpful. The first night, they even arranged a magnificent sunset followed by clear skies with billions of stars. Unless you’ve traveled in the high deserts of the west or in the remote arctic, you’ve probably never seen brighter stars than in the wilds of Maine in winter. Nice touch. Oh, and dinner (pot roast) was pretty darned fabulous, too.

We spent a day exploring the trails around Gorman Chairback on snowshoes and skis and only saw a tiny fraction of what’s there. Miles and miles of trails to explore with no one else around. That night we enjoyed another great dinner with new friends (one of the best parts of the AMC camp experience), another comfortable night, and another hearty breakfast brought us to the point where we had to pack up and hit the 8-mile trail back to the car.  The trail was great fun. Leaving wasn’t.

The folks at Gorman Chairback even provided this perfect sunset for our viewing pleasure. (Tim Jones photo)

We enjoyed a lovely ski out with light snow falling. Our luggage was waiting for us in the shed at the parking lot and the car started on the first try. Perfect!

In fact, my only complaint with the whole adventure is that I wish we’d had twice as long. This is my fourth visit to the AMC Maine Lodges, and each time I come home with the same complaint: more time needed. I guess that means we’ll have to go back again. Maybe we’ll see you there.

Going Prepared

Even on maintained trails with a warm camp on either end, you are still miles from shelter at times. Carry the gear you need to keep yourself safe and comfortable.

Any good “touring” skis will do. Marilyn and I used our Alpina “Discovery” waxless backcountry skis and they were perfect. In backpacks, we both carried extra clothing, including lightweight, warm “puffy” jackets, mittens, hats, hand and toe warmers, a water bottle in an insulated sleeve, and plenty of lunch. I also had a foam pad, a light sleeping bag and a thermos of hot tea along with my ever-present emergency kit and first aid kit. Maybe this was overkill, but if Marilyn’s knee gave out and she couldn’t continue, I wanted to be able to make her warm and comfortable while I went for help.

The AMC supplies maps which are very good (if you know how to read maps). But you should definitely carry a compass, too, and know how to use it.

If you don’t think you’d be comfortable venturing on backcountry trails on your own, the AMC can arrange guided camp-to-camp ski adventures.

If you have any questions about the AMC Maine Lodge experience or would like a more complete list of what to take on backcountry ski adventures just write to me in the comments section below, I’ll see that your questions get answered.

"The Babushka Girls" at the start of the 2011 Tubbs Romp To Stomp Out Breast Cancer. (Courtesy photo)

Our day started very early—up by 4am and on the road by 5  to make the 3-hour drive to the Vermont 2011 Tubb’s Romp to Stomp snowshoe series that benefits the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure. This year’s romp took place at the Stratton Mountain Ski Resort in southern Vermont and included a “Lil Romp,” a 3k snowshoe race, and two tours of 3k and 5k.

True outdoor enthusiasts who love to do anything in the snow, Roger and I were not fazed by the long drive, even with snow on the roads. Besides, our team, “The Babushka Sisters” would be counting on us to show up. Three members of the team are Slovak (Pat, Karen and Patty), thus the name. The other 2 (Paul and Roger) aren’t Slovak ( or girls) but, in the name of a good cause, we let them be honorary Babushkas for the day.

A member of the Pink Flamingo Team displays her finery. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The car thermometer said 19 degrees when we arrived at the Sun Bowl base lodge at Stratton Mountain. Despite the name, the sun wasn’t shining. However, compared to the below-zero temps and high winds of last year’s event, it felt practically balmy. We had come prepared for any weather: wicking base layers; hats, gloves, and neck warmers; insulation layers and windproof outer shells and of course, our babushkas.

The place was hopping and the color pink was in full display. Dressing up or wearing pink are not requirements but let me tell you there was ample silliness on display in both color and costumes. We checked in, got our numbers in no time thanks to the organization of the Tubb’s Staff and the many cheerful volunteers.

Silliness for a serious cause! This team should have taken home a prize for the "raciest" costume!

The seriousness of the cause was also evident in the many breast cancer survivors who were romping today, and by the myriad of participants who were doing the event in memory of someone who had not survived this horrible disease. Our group alone wore 6 names in honor of women we knew.

With 879 of us at the start line (a 2% increase in participants over the 2010 event) the energy was palpable!

The 5k trail was along one of the more moderate ski trails. It had just enough hills to make a few people step to the side of the group to catch their breath.  Cheers, laughter, horn blowing and the stomp of 879 snowshoes meant this wasn’t a quiet walk in the woods.  Mothers carried children when they grew tired, people exchanged picture taking, and dogs on leashes behaved.

Most of the costumes stayed intact except for some pink “hair” that got caught in a tree branch and one pink bra that came undone along the way!  The group moved along as one, slow and steady—this was not a race.  Everyone finished in good time and good humor.

Her mother is getting the workout as the "lil romper" tires. (Karen Chickering photo)

Now the awards would begin and there were many: awards for participating, awards for racing, awards for fundraising….and the real award of having done something meaningful over a disease you can’t control.

If you want to contribute to the fight against breast cancer we’d be happy to see you in 2012 at the next Romp. If you can walk, you can do it!  And if you don’t have snowshoes no problem. Tubbs will be there lending out their latest models free of charge for the event.

If you choose not to actively participate, please donate to a friend who is Romping.

879 participants and counting. (Roger Lyon-Surrey photo)

Hooray to all of this year’s participants!:

The amount of money raised to date at this one event: $80,473.32 Final figures won’t be in until March.
The largest amount raised by an individual: $5930.
The largest amount raised by a team: $12,267.87.

Now The Relaxing . . .

The Babushka team broke up after the awards ceremony with Karen promising that she would sew five bright pink babushkas and matching pink aprons lined with lace for next year’s event. Patty, Paul and Karen headed to nearby Manchester, Vermont to have lunch and check out the upscale outlet Stores before heading home. There is a lot to do in this area besides Romp.  Manchester is known for its designer outlet stores, an unusual commodity in Vermont.  There are 4 downhill ski areas, a number of Nordic ski centers, galleries, great restaurants and the largest independent book store in Vermont—Northshire Bookstore all within a  30 minute drive.

Roger and I were staying at the Landgrove Inn for the night and decided to make a stop at the Southern Vermont Arts Center in Manchester to see their annual Winter Member’s Exhibition before checking in at the Inn. The long driveway to the Southern Vermont Art Center was an art exhibit of its own; the natural beauty of the birch trees lining the road and the various sculptures placed in the meadows of this former estate all caught my attention on either side.

The juried member’s exhibit turned out to be much larger than we expected filling ten galleries with paintings, photographs, sculpture and mixed media pieces.  We took our time looking through all the galleries and seeing if we were in agreement on our top 3 entries.

Twenty minutes after leaving the Art Center we arrived at the Landgrove Inn at and met co-owner Maureen Checchia. Landgrove Inn is an authentic 1810 farmhouse set in an unspoiled mountain valley outside a tiny Vermont village. I couldn’t help but contrast it with the busy-ness of Stratton Mountain Resort and the Manchester area. What a welcome change! There were no malls, no condos, just thirty-five acres of quiet to explore.

The Landgrove Inn. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Maureen showed us around, told us some of the history of the inn and encouraged us to relax, eat from the pot of chili that was on in the den for guests or indulge ourselves with the chocolate chip cookies and tea that are always available.  Having been up before dawn, I was ready for a shower and a nap before dinner—of course, Rip Van Winkle Roger agreed.

At 5:00 we wandered back to the rustic bar and lounge area of the Inn where a buffet of wine and hors d’oeuvres were being set up for an après ski group.  Before I could even order a glass of wine at the bar one of the members of the group invited us to join them at the buffet. Sue, a long time member, was setting out 5 Italian cheeses for sampling that she promised I would enjoy. She told me that their group, the Valley Ski Club of Connecticut, had been coming to the inn each January for over 35 years. When they had first started coming here, the inn was only an après ski place where separate dorm rooms for “girls” and “boys” housed the group. In fact, at that time, they didn’t have to drive—there was a ski train that took them into Manchester from which they would be bussed up to the inn in two busses—one for them and one for their equipment.

Buffet set-up in the bar/lounge section of the Inn. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

Maureen had told me that 80% of their business was returning guests and this certainly fit for the club. They had reserved 13 of the 18 rooms at the inn for this week-end. Tom, the other half of the Landgrove Inn owner duo, was concerned we would find the presence of so many skiers in one place disquieting. I only found it fascinating. Many of these people had been skiing together for the life of the group. Ruth, an original member of the club, told me that some of the members no longer skied because of age or physical ability but had switched to hiking or snowshoeing as their bodies had changed. Talk about active seniors!

Toasting their long, active friendship. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

I continued to ask questions of the group while Roger simply sat in a rocking chair before the fire with a beer in hand. When I joined him I noticed that the wood ceiling above was carved with names and dates. Tom told me that in the days before Maureen and his time at the inn the ski guests took to carving their names in the wooden ceiling with a hot poker from the wood stove. He would like to insulate the ceiling and cover up the “graffiti” but most of his guests think it would take away from the charm of the room.

There was an intergenerational foosball game going on among the guests, a number of whom had just recently met. Truly this room offered a convivial and friendly atmosphere that encouraged mingling yet offered enough space to be on your own if desired. I had a hard time removing myself from the glow of the wood stove and the warmth of the company but our dinner reservation beckoned.

This Foosball game was a challenge of the ages. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The dining room has cozy tables for two or four, and expandable seating for large parties. Their menu offers a variety of appetizers and entrees as well as homemade soups and daily specials. Roger and I both had salads with house dressings–his a balsamic vinegar, mine a garlic based dressing.  I chose the crispy duck in cherry sauce with sides of rice pilaf and fresh green beans done al dente for my entrée. Roger ordered one of the evening’s specials: Pork Mediterranean– medallions of pork in a tomato, capers, olive and artichoke mix. Unfortunately we didn’t have room for dessert although I would have loved to sample the apple crisp, the cranberry cheese tart AND the brownie sundae! We went to bed early with a vision of tomorrow’s ski on the Inn’s 10 k of trails beckoning.

After a full breakfast of French toast, poached eggs and sausage we changed into ski clothes and met Carl Eric–as he likes to be called–at the ski center which is attached to the inn. Carl Eric, 69, has been running his satellite ski business, housed at the inn, for 15 years. He rents skis and snowshoes if you don’t have your own, and grooms and tracks the inn’s 10k of trails. Skiing is by donation. He is also a registered ski instructor if you need a lesson. Curt lived in Sweden until age 7 when he and his family moved to the states. I think he must be responsible for the recipe for the “glog” that is available at the inn to warm you after a ski!

The trails are tracked for classic skiing and there are plenty of choices for the beginner to the advanced skier. The inn’s 10k of trails connect to the National Forest trails which are maintained by a local ski club. The Catamount Trail (a 300 mile backcountry trail that runs the length of Vermont) shares a part of these 10k, too. Since we had our 3 hour trip back to northern Vermont ahead of us, we decided to sample only the inn trails.

The flat to undulating trails have no big hills to climb or descend.  Most Nordic ski areas in Vermont are either all up or all down and this is a welcome change, a great place to enjoy an even tempo or practice technique. Open views of meadows, barns and the small town of Landgrove offer the quintessential beauty of Vermont as you ski. After about 1 1/2 hours of skiing, we reluctantly took off our boots and said our goodbyes.

A view of the Village of Landgrove from the ski trail. (Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo)

The week-end was perfect with two days of exercise, good food, good company and the pure joy of having participated in an activity to better the world. I would encourage anyone who wants a relaxing yet active Vermont experience to put a team together for the Romp to Stomp and then bring yourself over to the Landgrove  Inn for your own après snowshoe celebration. I wish I had brought the rest of the Babushksa Sisters along!