The only problem is that after a few days of rich, heavy, wonderful food, we often feel like the Hindenburg before it exploded. And, getting out for a bike ride or a run isn’t usually in the cards; there’s usually ice and snow as far as the eye can see.  How to solve the problem?

The water's boiling, the cocoa will soon be ready, all's right with the world! (David Shedd photo)

The answer is simple. Most of us have some place that we can get away for a quick hike on shoes or snowshoes. Town parks, local mountains, even a nice drive through the winter wonderland to a national forest; any of them can get you to a place where you can get out, shake off the blahs, breathe in some cold, clean air…oh, and eat some more!

In our family, stockings are often stuffed with delicacies…and, just as often, those delicacies sit in our pantry waiting for the “right occasion” to use them. And, sometimes, after a few years we look at them, question our sanity for keeping them around that long, and pitch them before we contemplate seat-of-the-pants testing for botulism. Why not solve the problem by throwing them into a backpack instead of the pantry?

Dogs are allowed at Bradbury, which means that Barley gets the rare treat of begging from a rock shelf ABOVE us; didn't change his success rate, however. (David Shedd photo)

2011 was kind to us; December 26 turned out to be a sunny, relatively warm day with just enough bite in the wind to make hot cocoa on top of a mountain sound really appealing. Even with a slow start, Bradbury Mountain in Pownal, ME, was easily do-able for us, about a 40 minute drive from our house. You have your choice of  there’s a short, relatively steep climb to the summit, or longer trails that wind around the mountain. Either way, the views from the top are lovely, and there’s a nice rocky section to put down camp chairs and spread out your picnic. Plus, dogs are allowed and encouraged; for us, that meant that not only we, but also Barley our mutant Golden, could enjoy the fresh air.

So, up we went. With little snow, ice is a guarantee, so traction aids like Kahtoola Microspikes or YakTrax are a good idea when getting out until the snow is deep; trekking poles are even more important. We equipped ourselves with both…a little more weight carried = more calories burned, right? We ended up only using the poles, but there were times we questioned our wisdom, and were glad we had the Kahtoolas in our packs just in case.

And…it was lovely.  A short hike, and we were at the top right at 1 o’clock, perfect timing for lunch. Even after the gastronomic insanity of the past few days, we were hungry; fresh air will do that for you! Out came the “fun food”: smoked baby clams, black olive tapenade on Triscuits, duck pate, and dried figs for dessert. Our Jetboil Sol produced hot water in minutes, and we had Swiss Miss hot cocoa (the sugar free kind, of course; we wouldn’t want to overdo it!) to wash it all down.Pure decadence!

Some good food, hot cocoa, the enjoyment of a lovely day outdoors...our "blahs" are all gone! (David Shedd photo)

After an hour or so of relaxing, watching a few clouds blow by and a few birds flying around, we packed back up again and headed down, Barley taking the lead. The conversation was lighter, the laughter more regular than on the way up; there’s something about being outside that takes away all of the sludge in our bodies and minds. Thanks to our little picnic, in a matter of hours we’d beaten the physical, mental, and emotional exhaustion that so often comes after the holidays!

The moral of the story? When you’ve been overstimulated for days and have zero energy, force yourself to get out into Mother Nature’s back yard; it won’t take long before you regain your perspective, your energy, and your sense of humor. And, perhaps best of all, you won’t end up wasting pantry space on those Christmas goodies!

This guide is a sampler of what some would consider the best hikes in the Monadnock Region of New Hampshire for viewing fall foliage at its peak, or later; many people miss out on wonderful browns and yellows by thinking “oh, it’s too late, the foliage is past peak”, not to mention the better views created by fewer leaves on the trees. The list of hikes and walks is divided into two groups. The first are the hikes that require a certain level of fitness and agility to accomplish. The second is a grouping of easy rambles that just about anyone can enjoy.

If you are concerned that fall is hunting season, don’t be. Read our story on Hiking Safely In Hunting Season, then get out and enjoy!

Six Wonderful Foliage Hikes

1) Cliff Trail on North Pack, Greenfield

The Cliff Trail from the summit of North Pack Monadnock offers a bird’s-eye view from a cliff on a saddle between Pack and North Pack. In the words of one area hiking diehard, “When the foliage is at its height, the colors are brilliant…. The combination of close-up and distance [views] makes for the best fall foliage viewing.” In the distance, of course, is Mount Monadnock to the west. When it’s clear, you can look south along the undulating topography of the Wapack Ridge all the way to Mount Watatic where it straddles the borders of New Ipswich and Ashburnham and Ashby, Mass. To get there, either start at Miller State Park off Route 101 or find the Wapack Trail trailhead on the south side of Mountain Road.

2) Thumbs Up on Skatutakee, Hancock

Maple is just one of the deciduous varieties ablaze in October in the Monadnock Region. (Jonathan Gourlay photo)

The Thumbs Up Trail connects the tops of Skatutakee and Thumb mountains in Hancock. To get there, you must take the Harriskat Trail across the street from the Harris Center for Conservation Education and head up Skatutakee or take a right turn at Thumbs Down Trail and eventually take a fairly steep climb up Thumb. The hike is about a mile and a half to Thumbs Up, which is about a 1.25- mile-long trail offering different views of the surrounding foliage as well as Hancock itself. You can also connect with Jack’s Pond and Old Dublin Road trails from the top of Skatutakee.

3) White Dot Trail on Mt. Monadnock, Jaffrey
The White Dot Trail climbs 1.9 miles from Monadnock State Park headquarters off Route 124 to the summit of what is reportedly the second-most climbed mountain in the world next to Japan’s Mount Fuji. The White Dot Trail is the shortest and most direct route to the summit and takes hikers over rock slabs much of the time after starting on a dirt road. After the junction with the Cascade Link Trail, the trail ascends a stone staircase. At about the halfway point, you break out of the trees and the surrounding lowlands become visible. After diving back into woods for a bit, you emerge once again and are greeted with magnificent views to the south. There are many ledges from which to view the foliage, and of course the summit provides a full 360- degree aspect. To the northwest is Killington in Vermont; to the north is Mount Sunapee(the other terminus of the Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway) with Moosilauke, Lafayette and Mount Washington (which is easily visible when it’s covered with snow while others are bare) in the distance; to the east are the Pack Monadnocks; and to the southeast is Boston and Hancock Tower visible on crystal-clear autumn days.

4) The Shannon Trail on Crotched Mountain, Greenfield
Though the summit of Crotched Mountain has limited views, ledges along the way make the hike well worth it. Views to the south, southwest and west of Mount Monadnock as well as North and Pack Monadnock make this hike interesting any time of year, yet especially so during peak foliage season. The hike to the summit is a classic with families because it is among the easiest to hike, but the Shannon Trail toward the top adds some challenge. The trail is combined with the Summit Trail for much of the hike and becomes more of a test near the ledges, which provide the best views. Access can be gained from Crotched Mountain Rehabilitation Center off Route 31. Follow signs from Greenfield. At about a mile and a half from Route 31, a gated gravel road on the left marks the trailhead to both Shannon Trail and Summit Trail..

5) Wapack Trail, Temple
The Wapack is a 21-mile trail that stretches from Mount Watatic in Ashburnham, Mass. to North Pack in Greenfield, passing through sections of seven towns. The Wapack is one of the oldest interstate footpaths in the Northeast and essentially follows a ridgeline route along the summits of Watatic, Pratt, New Ipswich, Barrett and Temple mountains before dropping onto a shoulder and crossing Route 101 then ascending the Pack Monadnocks. The section of trail from Temple to Sharon affords open ledges and rocky peaks with impressive ridge views toward Mount Monadnock, the Berkshires and the Green Mountains to the west, Boston to the southeast, and the White Mountains to the north.

6) Bald Mountain and Willard Pond, Antrim
The hike up 2030-foot Bald Mountain is accessed from Willard Pond (a great place for a fall paddle, too), part of the dePierrefeu- Willard Pond Wildlife Sanctuary off of Route 123 in Hancock. The hike encircles Hatch Mill Pond before continuing along the shore of the 96-acre Willard Pond then ascending Bald Mountain, which provides scenic views from rocky ledges over the pond and to points south. From Hancock, take Route 123 north about three miles to Willard Pond Road. After about a mile and half, a parking area marks the trailhead.

One good wind, and the colors blow away. (Jonathan Gourlay photo)

Seven Easy Foliage Strolls

1) Pack Monadnock, Temple
Miller State Park wraps around the shoulders of Pack Monadnock and an automobile road to the summit affords views of Temple Mountain to the south and Mount Monadnock to the west for a day-use fee of $4 for adults ($2 for children 6 to 11; 5 and under and state residents age 65 and over are admitted free). If you are up for the climb, a fire tower, no longer used for detecting fires, affords a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside when the ranger is in. The park is located just off Route 101 near the top of the hill heading east out of Peterborough and is open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

2) Cathedral of the Pines, Rindge
Panoramic views of Mount Monadnock and its wide variety of deciduous and coniferous trees are just one of the features of this outdoor memorial to those who have given their lives in service to their country. There is a museum, gift shop and gardens. Located on Hale Hill Road just one mile from Route 119. Open through October 31.

3) Harris Center for Conservation Education, Hancock

You don’t have to climb any mountains to enjoy the foliage at this conservation center. In addition to the hiking trails and free weekend programs at the center, its naturalists often arrange guided walks and “ambles” of interesting public lands around the region. Find a calendar of events at the center’s Programs & Outings page at www.harriscenter.org. Located at 83 King’s Highway.

Views of multiple colors abound from many of the easier hiking trails in southern New Hampshire. (Jonathan Gourlay photo)

4) The Gregg Trail and Dutton Brook Trail at Crotched Mountain, Greenfield
These two recently opened trails are wheelchair accessible and begin just opposite the main entrance to Crotched Mountain Rehabilitation Center on Crotched Mountain Road. A switch-backing Gregg Trail takes you up to a platform with astounding views to the west, including Mount Monadnock, on a bluff where blueberries grow in late spring. The switchbacks offer great views to the east. At the end of the accessible section, the trail meets the more demanding Shannon Trail that continues across a blueberry reclamation project before diving into the woods for the push up Crotched Mountain. The Dutton Brook Trail is also accessible to wheelchairs and circles a pond just north of the rehabilitation campus. As you approach the rehabilitation center from Route 31, drive up Crotched Mountain Road. Immediately after passing Verney Road and the main entrance, look for access to parking on the left. The beginning of the accessible trails is immediately to the right as you turn in.

5) Wilton Center
The varied colors of beech, birch, oak and maple as well as a variety of ferns of gold and bronze hues line the fields and streets of Wilton Center, a quaint village with large houses, old barns, stone walls, and open views of the Monadnock region. It’s absent of commerce, so the relatively quiet roads are a pleasure to walk when the air turns crisp. You’ll find the center by following the signs for Andy’s Summer Playhouse when approaching on Route 101 from the west or the sign for the First Unitarian Church at a steep uphill right turn across from the Mobil station from the east. Andy’s is a children’s theater housed in a former Grange Hall with a parking lot.

6) Nussdorfer Nature Area, New Ipswich

Red and white oak, beech, poplar and hemlock trees provide the contrasting colors at Nussdorfer Nature Area. The area around Hoar Pond is also populated with a stand of tamarack, a deciduous coniferous species of larch that turns gold in autumn. The Hoar Pond Nature Trail starts with a short, steep climb before easing up and turning into an easier walk with some views to the north and east. The trail eventually winds around to nice views of a bog and pond. There is parking off Old Country Road, which is found from River Road off Route 124. Look for brown and white signs.

7) Edward MacDowell Lake, West Peterborough

Easy walk-to views of birch, poplar, maple, oak, beech, hemlock and alder can be found here. The varieties circle a large flood-control lake and a dirt trail ambles along its eastern shore. The Edward MacDowell Dam was built as a result of the Flood Control Act of 1936 and created a lake that has become a popular local spot for walking the family dog, fishing, and canoeing and kayaking. It affords a variety of scenic vistas as does a walk on top of the dam itself. Find the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers station at the end of Wilder Street off Union Street just west of Nature’s Green Grocer.

This is far from an exhaustive list; there are many more hikes possible in the region.  If you have a favorite you’d like to share, add it to the comments list!

Foliage season had yet to get started in most of New England when we found this panorama on Mont Sutton in Quebec. (Tim Jones photo)

Like most Americans, I don’t really know a foreign language. Beyond simple ideas like “hello,” “please” and “thank you,” I don’t speak any language other than English. I can’t really read another language or understand when it’s spoken to me.

But I absolutely love to explore Quebec. Fortunately, you don’t need to know French to travel in Quebec.

I do know, however, that the French language makes a really big deal about differentiating between masculine and feminine. Maybe that’s why my sweetheart Marilyn and I see our Quebec adventures so differently. We both enjoy the entire experience, we just focus on slightly different things. (You can see a perfect example of this in her story versus mine about pedaling the Véloroute des Bleuets in the Saguenay, Lac-Saint-Jean Region north of Quebec City in September, 2010.)

Quebec is a different world in foliage season, just as beautiful as any place in New England. Unlike New England, however, the foliage starts a bit earlier, and you don’t need to make reservations months in advance. You just decide to go, pack your bike, hiking shoes, passport and your sense of adventure, and you go. As soon as you cross the border, the world changes and everything gets more fun. We’ve just returned from our third biking trip to Quebec in foliage season, this time visiting the Eastern Townships. This is getting to be a very nice habit indeed.

We’ve both discovered that we love the endorphin high you get from biking up here, and the adrenaline rush of skiing and treetop adventures. And, of course, all the other fun stuff that happens when you just relax and enjoy visiting a foreign country so close to home.

Even the “Little Adventurer" course at Arbre Sutton produces big smiles. Your feet never get far off the ground but your heart still soars. (Tim Jones photo)

Getting High In The Trees

Exhilarated. Slightly sore all over. And smiling . . .  Most definitely smiling.

That’s probably the way our primordial ancestors felt when they first climbed down from the trees after traipsing across branches and swinging from vines. And it’s certainly the way my sweetheart Marilyn and I felt when we climbed down from the trees at Arbre Sutton, a magnificent aerial adventure course just a couple of miles from the Vermont border in Sutton, Quebec, Canada.

It’s the way you should feel when you’ve tackled something difficult, put some of your muscles to work the way they were designed to be used, felt the adrenaline rush of momentary terror, sucked in oxygen to help calm your beating heart, and went all out for something challenging enough that you weren’t sure you could do it.

All thrills, no risk on the "Little Adventurer" kids treetop course at Arbre Sutton. (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

The beauty of an aerial adventure course like this is simple: it FEELS like you are in extreme peril, but you aren’t. Every moment your feet are off the ground you are clipped into safety lines strong enough to lift an elephant. You’re probably safer here than you are crossing a busy city street. So you get much of the thrill of a risk sport without any of the danger. I love it.

One big difference between the big aerial adventure courses in Quebec  (we’ve done three now with more to try) and similar outfits in the US is that, in Quebec, they teach you what you need to know, then send you off to do the adventure on your own. No one holds your hand. They assume you are smart enough to take care of yourself. As far as I’m concerned, making you take responsibility for yourself is actually safer and more fun, since you are forced to focus more on what you are doing and double check everything yourself.

Like many of the big courses in Canada, Arbre Sutton has several levels of challenge, so you can do as much or as little as your heart desires (or as your heart can take!). For families with young children, there’s a “Little Adventurer” course, built close to the ground and on a kid-friendly scale. As the website says “Note to parents: you are welcome to join your children within the Little Adventurer course. However; we are not responsible for your child teasing you if you do not complete the activity!” Judging from the smiles and shrieks, nobody in the Little Adventurer course was unhappy that they weren’t on the “big” courses.

Wheeee!!!! Your heart races as you soar through empty space. You know you are safe—but don’t try to convince your primitive brain! (Tim Jones photo)

For bigger kids (of all ages) Arbre Sutton has four levels of challenge, green, blue, red and black. Each level gets progressively higher, longer, and more difficult. There are tightropes to walk, various swings and suspension bridges, ladders up, ladders down, cargo nets and, of course, ziplines. Lots of ziplines.

I particularly love the challenge of the swinging bridges—logs, planks, or stirrups suspended from ropes of cables with each piece moving independently of the others. You have to simultaneously stabilize yourself on the piece you are on, and somehow get your feet and then your body onto the next step, all with anywhere from 10 to 50 feet of empty air below you. Again, you are in a safety harness double-clipped into a cable that could lift a whale, so you really can’t fall. Your rational brain knows that, but don’t try to tell it to the part of your brain that swung through the trees with your ancestors . . .

The one “feature” everyone who did the whole course was talking about was the “Tarzan” swing on the Black course. Standing 40 feet up on the end of what looks suspiciously like a diving board you grab hold of a hawser-thick rope (don’t worry, you are also double-safety-clipped to it), and step off. Because of the angles involved, it feels like you drop 15 feet before you swing up and into a waiting vertical cargo net (about 30 feet off the ground.) Pure adrenaline rush!!!! They have a bailout option (a cable bridge) so you can still complete the course if you aren’t in touch with your inner Tarzan, but I didn’t see anyone opt for it . . .

Don’t worry though, if you quit after the green course and never get anywhere near the Tarzan swing; you still feel like a you’ve taken a walk on the wild side, challenged yourself in ways you didn’t think you could, and came away smiling . . .

Bigger kids get bigger challenges, as Marilyn proves. Stepping from log to log on the Green (easiest) course was a wonderful warm-up for bigger things to come (Tim Jones photo)

When I was going through the entire course on a warm autumn Saturday, it appeared that men slightly outnumbered women (but the women shrieked louder and laughed more). Remember that “masculine/feminine” thing? Here’s Marilyn’s take on the whole treetop adventure:

Even for cautious me, the highlight of our first day in Quebec was the adventure course and zip line at Arbre Sutton. In Canada, where they encourage autonomy, a treetop adventure is bound to be one of the most challenging, exhilarating, thrilling and adrenaline-producing experiences of your life. It is completely safe–just keep reminding yourself of that as you do it.

I did the Green course, which was plenty long and high enough for me. Although I was terrified before I started, it gave me a HUGE sense of accomplishment and left me shaking from the adrenaline. It was even better than skiing down a black diamond trail. I was really proud of myself for overcoming my fear and doing as much as I did.

With my feet firmly back on solid ground (and my legs still shaking), I went off to take photos of the kids on the “Little Adventurer” course. Tim did all four parts and his comment was, “If it wasn’t so late in the day, I’d do Part Four again!” Need I say that adrenaline is Tim’s  drug of choice?! I like it, too, but in smaller doses. If you’ve never done an aerial adventure course, you owe it to yourself to accept the challenge and try it. You don’t have to do it all and love every minute of it, but not trying at all would be sad.

Exploring Sutton

The town of Sutton in Quebec is one of our favorite spots in all of La Belle Province. I’ll let Marilyn tell you about our day there (I was wishing I could do the Arbre Sutton course again . . .)

The Veranda at Gite Vert le Mont in Sutton was ideal for enjoying a leisurely, made to order, delicious breakfast. (Tim Jones photo)

Our home for the first two nights was Gîte Vert le Mont Bed & Breakfast. If you like beautiful Victorians, you will love it here. This B&B has five guest rooms, all with wi-fi access. Our room was a lovely sage green with white accents. The common areas are comfortable and encourage relaxing, especially the stunning wrap-around porch. While one half of the porch is used for reading, relaxing, enjoying an evening glass of wine, and watching people go by on the sidewalk, the hidden half is set up with three tables for an intimate breakfast overlooking a garden with the most amazing and unforgettable “Janus” sculpture of white marble set improbably but perfectly in massive old cast-iron radiators. Words and photos cannot possibly do this sculpture justice. You need to go there and see them for yourself. This is just one of many sculpture pieces placed about the garden. Exploring here is a delight.

Imagine our surprise when Lynda Graham, our innkeeper, greeted us in a charming British accent! Americans in Quebec, rarely if ever, need to feel concerned about not speaking French. Most everyone here can move seamlessly from French to English without batting an eyelash. Lynda is one of those people born to be an innkeeper: she has an engaging personality, infectious enthusiasm, vast knowledge about the area . . . She and her partner Jay are warm and welcoming, catering to your every need and serving a wonderful made to order breakfast.

The Cafetier Sutton on Main Street is part of the Cafés de village network in the Eastern Townships. (Tim Jones photo)

Part of the reason we found this B&B so special is its location in the absolutely charming village of Sutton. You can park your car and forget about driving. Numerous restaurants, entertainment, activities and shops are all within easy strolling distance. It’s so much fun to browse in little gourmet shops and grocery stores in Quebec. You can find such enticing new food options.

While you are in Sutton, be sure to eat lunch in the Cafetier, one of the establishments that participates in the Cafés de Village network in the Eastern Townships. This concept was developed in France (“Cafés de pays”) and has translated beautifully across the Atlantic.. The Cafés in the Eastern Townships are small establishments that serve a healthy menu of local and seasonal products. The atmosphere is casual, friendly and our lunch was so fresh and delicious!

Our evening dinner was just a stroll away from the B&B at the L’International which we chose at random. I had a delicately-prepared sole while Tim had Osso Bucco. After dinner we wandered into a show being presented by the annual jazz festival to enjoy the music in a trendy little club with living-room-comfy chairs and a full bar. All this, just a 2-minute walk from our B&B.

This lively and listenable Dixiland jazz ensemble was one of the surprises we found on the Main Street of Stutton, Quebec! (Tim Jones photo)

The village of Sutton is a joy! It’s also only a couple of miles from one of my favorite ski resorts. If you’ve ever skied at Mont Sutton, you know that it’s a gem. Sutton offers wonderful views, great snow and  “skiing in the trees for all levels of ability.” In fact, it’s the first area where I ever felt comfortable skiing in the trees.

Alas, there’s no white stuff on the ground in late September. Sigh… Instead, they were having a “Fall Festival” at the mountain. They have music, food and ski sales at the base of the mountain. You can take the chair lift up to the summit and walk or ride down. We chose to walk and enjoy the gorgeous foliage, which was not yet at its peak but still spectacular.

A Perfect Autumn Day In The Eastern Townships

Getting back to the masculine side, Here’s my take on a perfect “endorphin high” day in the Eastern Townships.

Marilyn and I woke up this morning in a comfortable bed in Vert Le Mont B&B in Sutton, Quebec. Take note: they have special packages for hiking, biking, skiing, and aerial adventures . . .

When you see this "Welcome Cyclists" sign in Quebec, you know they mean it. (Tim Jones photo)

They are also part of the “Bienvenue Cyclistes” program for lodgings and campgrounds in Quebec. As a lodging, they offer secure, dry storage for your bike, a tire pump and some basic tools for repair and loads of information on bike routes and bike shops in the local area. By the way, the campgrounds which participate in the Bienvenue Cyclistes program offer guaranteed campsites to anyone traveling exclusively by bike, whether or not they have a reservation. Great program–I’d love to see something similar developed in the States!

The really nice innkeepers, Lynda and Jay, (she’s from England, he’s from Pennsylvania) served us a delicious (huge!) breakfast made to order and sent us on our way with a smile. There wasn’t a cloud in the blue, blue sky and temperatures were ideal for biking.

This waterfront park in Granby is right on the bike route. (Tim Jones photo)

A half-hour later, we were at the “Information Touristique” in Bromont, cycling map in hand and ready to ride on a 56-kilometer circuit, all part of the 4,000-kilometer La Route Verte network of bike trails and marked bike routes that makes it easy to see much of Quebec by bike. From Bromont. we rode into Granby, from there to Parc Yamaska (where we had a picnic lunch), then on to Waterloo, where we got our second wind, and back to Bromont. Even with a couple of detours off the basic route, the whole journey took exactly three hours with stops, almost all of it on flat, well-marked beautifully maintained bike trails, some paved, some gravel. We only had to do a little road riding in Waterloo. most of our ride was through quiet woodlands, some  along lovely lakeshores. With our detours we rode about 65 kilometers (40 miles), a perfect ride.

Back in the car, we drove six minutes (we timed it) to Chateau Bromont where we checked into a spectacular room with a view of Ski Bromont, which, by the way has an incredible snowmaking system and night skiing and an equally incredible network of mountain biking trails (next time!).  While I saw the ski hill, Marilyn actually saw the room we were staying in: Our suite was decorated in rust and beiges, with a large bedroom, huge bathroom and comfortable living room with a gas fireplace and mini-bar. What more could you want? Is living here an alternative?

Our night at the Chateau Bromont with a visit to the spa and dinner a Les Quatre Canards was the perfect way to end a perfect day. (Chateau Bromont photo)

Our package included full access to the sauna, steamroom, and myriad outdoor hot tubs at Spa Bromont plus a one-hour “treatment.” I went for the “vigorous” sports massage. (Thanks Michel, it was wonderful!) while Marilyn had an exfoliating massage: My spa treatment was a total body massage and exfoliation with sugar and apple. Never had an exfoliating massage? You owe it to yourself! I came out with the smoothest skin imaginable! My masseuse, Mariette also did an outstanding job of working all the muscles that still felt that 40 miles on the bike. And the hot roiling bath and lavender body milk after the treatment was the perfect ending.

The day ended with a glass of wine in our room, then a four-course table d’hote dinner in Les Quatre Canards, the main hotel restaurant (I don’t know why but the food is simply better in Quebec). Perfectly prepared and presented jumbo shrimp, and local cheeses for appetizers, mushroom soup, beef tenderloin with peppers, huge fresh scallops . . . It was, as they say, the perfect end to a perfect day whether you are looking at it from the masculine or feminine perspective. Just what you’d expect in the Eastern Townships.

A beautiful blue sky over the Swift River and Kancamagus Highway. (Ron Shpindler photo)

It turns out Kancamagus (correctly pronounced “Kank-ah-MAW-gus”; and frequently mispronounced “Kank-ah Mang-gus”), is more than a word. It’s the name of a Native American warrior chief and, by the way, 26.5 miles of outdoor playground. This is a perfect spot for a cheap, quick, fun weekend outdoor getaway, if you are adventurous enough to get out of your car and go exploring.

The Kancamagus Highway, commonly called “The Kanc,” runs alongside the Swift and Ammonoosuc rivers, through the White Mountain National Forest in north-central New Hampshire. Around this time of year, the highway is set ablaze when beech trees with silvery bark turn to gold, birch trees turn yellow, and maples flame brilliant reds and oranges.

Not only is the highway beautiful, it’s also your gateway to lots of active fun. It’s a favorite of bikers–and when we say “bikers” we mean either sleek, spandex-wearing athletes on roadbikes or the mud-and-blood spattered mountain bike types, NOT the leather clad motorcycle types (though The Kanc is popular with them, too). We even saw a of couple runners braving the hilly route.

The Kanc is  ornamented with spectacular scenic views, places to camp, and trailheads that lead you away from the road into the wilds of the high White Mountains.

Unable to resist fall’s first crisp weekend, my friends Mike and Ron and I set off from Boston to get to know this area. Among its other attributes, the Kancamagus lends itself to last-minute camping trips, perfect for last-minute college kids. None of the Forest Service campgrounds along the Kanc require reservations, though you can make reservations at some. We were bound for a spot Ron had visited once as a kid and remembered fondly. The Covered Bridge Campsite is in Albany, towards the Conway end of the Kancamagus as you come from Lincoln. We could also have camped at Big Rock, Blackberry Crossing, Hancock, Jigger Johnson  or Passaconaway campgrounds along the way (Blackberry and Hancock are plowed and open all winter!). Backpacking off the highway was also an option. Be sure to read these regulations if you want to backcountry camp off the Kancamagus.

Over six miles of hiking on the Rocky Gorge Trail. And that's just one of the thirty-something trails in the area. (Ron Shpindler photo)

None of three of us actually owns a car (we’re poor college kids living in Boston, after all), so we got there “creatively,” something I’ve been learning to do whenever I want to escape the city. This time, we caught an early bus, the Boston Express, up to Ron’s hometown of Nashua, New Hampshire where his parents were going to let us borrow a car for the weekend. Public transportation in the northeast is pretty good, so we could have gotten there carless by taking the bus from Boston to Conway, then hiking along the Kanc. After we got off the bus and before we drove north, Ron’s parents fussed over us a little (they wanted phone numbers and detailed plans!), and helped us out a lot with necessary gear and plenty of his dad’s famous pickled cabbage. Parents are good things to have!

When we finally arrived at the campground, we were greeted by a host who collected $20 for a site and sold us firewood. Thanks to the Asian Longhorned Beetle, a nasty-looking little bug that infests and destroys forests, anyone camping along the Kancamagus has to purchase local wood if they want to build a fire. Since building a campfire is a staple of every camping experience (and, I’ve discovered, a serious preoccupation for the male camping population), we didn’t hesitate to pay the extra $7 for firewood.

But before any campfires could happen, we had to choose a site, set up our tent and check out the area. The Covered Bridge campground is great for a low-key campout. The living was easy with a level tent area, a picnic table, and a fire grate. Clean bathrooms and a dumpster were nearby, and a well-pump for water was a short walk away. Oriented and settled in, we decided on a hiking route.

We stopped to wonder at this beautiful golden mushroom (maybe Amanita pantherina?) growing in the middle of the trail. (Ron Shpindler photo)

Like I said before, hiking trails are abundant in the area. We had three hiking trails to choose from within easy walking distance from our site and countless more by car. The Rocky Gorge trail started close to our tent area, so that’s what we chose. This begins as the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail. Despite our not knowing how to say the name, we thought the trail itself looked promising. In fact, it looks like it will make a wonderful cross-country skiing route in a few months. (Note to self: add this to the a list of adventures for this winter . . .) It runs along the Swift River and eventually turns into a path through pristine woods.

Perhaps due to recent heavy rainfall, mushrooms were everywhere along the trail. None of us are mushroom experts, but we were able to identify what we think were bowl-shaped chanterelles as well as golden and red (and probably poisonous!) Amanitas. The clumps that looked like black-and-white leopard skins and white ones covered in shaggy manes are still mysteries.

Now THAT'S a root system! (Ron Shpindler photo)

While Hurricane Irene’s damage was evident, it didn’t impede our hike at all. Flattened trees high up on the riverbank showed us where Hurricane Irene’s torrential rain and winds had caused the river to rise to destructive levels. We even saw an enormous, old tree that had been ripped out of the ground. The root system was much MUCH taller than me (which, I suppose, isn’t that difficult . . .)! When we reached the Rocky Gorge, which was supposed to be this hike’s big “ta-da” moment, pieces of the sidewalk beside it were missing. The area is still safe to visit, so don’t hesitate to go! However the damage was a reminder of how impressive and scary unleashed natural forces can be.

Speaking of impressive, natural forces, glaciers formed the Rocky Gorge’s cascading falls millions of years ago.The pools upstream and downstream from it make good swimming spots in the summer; but swimmers have to be careful not to get too close to the falls or risk getting sucked into a dangerous eddy where, in 1942, Dorothy Sparks miraculously lived after being lost under the falls for three hours.

The 6.8 mile round-trip hike, which I would rate “fairly easy,” also has a stop at Falls Pond. As inviting as the pond area was for a picnic, Autumn’s ever-earlier sunsets dictated that we head back to camp.

The Albany Covered Bridge under cloudy night skies. (Ron Shpindler photo)

After a lot of male fussing starting the campfire that night and roasting delicious veggie hotdogs over it, we visited the park’s namesake, the Albany Covered Bridge. The bridge was originally built in 1858 and much of the original time-worn timber still remains. For all of us not wanting to risk our lives crossing a 150-year-old wooden bridge, steel and other supports were added in the early 1980s. Kudos to whoever did the renovation because this New England treasure survived Irene without any visible damage. It is as impressive as it must have been back in 1858. Under the cloudy night skies, the old bridge looked purplish and eerie. Ron, an avid amateur photographer, got some great shots.

After the long day of hiking and  aerobic fire-starting, we all slept like logs. Some of our friends in Boston had stayed behind, worried about being too cold at night. Stinks for them, because fall is the perfect time to be sleeping outside if you know how to stay warm. Nestling up in a warm sleeping bag is undeniably cozy.

Before heading back to Boston on Sunday morning, we couldn’t resist one last stop at The Lower Falls on the Swift River, one of the many scenic stops along the highway. Like every area on the Kancamagus, the rocks and water were gorgeous. But it was pretty packed with people. Hiking to a less accessible area the day before had rewarded us with serenity and solitude–well worth the extra effort. I’ve heard that The Kanc can get even busier in the height of foliage season, so arrive early in the day if you want to get a campsite on weekends.

What an attractive bunch! Ron, me, and Mike at the Rocky Gorge.

I wish we could have hiked and camped for another day or two. On this third weekend of September, fall’s colors were just beginning to creep into the leaves. From what we saw, it seemed the sort of vibrant autumn show New England is known for was only a few cold nights away. The Kancamagus Highway will be prime for bare-ground hiking through the first or second week of November. After that, you’d better be prepared for snow.

Alas, homework and work obligations beckoned us back to “the real world.” Since traveling to the Kancamagus and back was easier than starting a fire, more camping and hiking may be in store. That is, unless some other mountain adventure doesn’t get me first.

Just two weeks after Irene hit I decided to test out “getting there from here” by taking a trip to Twin Mountains Farm B&B, located in Middletown Springs, Vermont. The town is barely 20 miles from the Rutland/Killington area where some of the worst flooding occurred. I started from my home in Wolcott (in north-central Vermont), took a route west through Hinesburg, then south through Vergennes and down 22A to Poultney and Middletown Springs—a distance of over 120 miles.  On the entire route there was only one sign that warned of a one lane road ahead; the one lane lasting for less than 1/4 mile.

I arrived at the Inn about noon to find Walt and Annie Pepperman cleaning out the horse paddock where their three horses are sometimes fenced during the summer months. No horses were in sight. It seems “Zelda” was at a stable getting groomed, including a pedicure, for her first competition. I guess the other two horses were watching. Annie had her cowboy boots and hat on and Walt was in coveralls. They stopped what they were doing and greeted me warmly. Annie said she would give me a tour of the B&B and show me my room. Walt announced that he’d like to take me by mule to their new cabin built high on a hill on their 150 acres of woods, fields and streams between Coy and Morgan Mountains.

Twin Mountains Farm B&B surrounded by maple trees. Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo

The inn has a total of three bedrooms, all with private bath, and a fourth “cottage” room separate from the main house that is sometimes available for lodging. All the rooms have animal names: Deer, Bear, Moose and Wolf. Can you tell they love animals? I stayed in the separate cottage space called “Wolf.” The outside entry had a small porch with a sitting bench—a great place to read in the sun. The room was large and bright, with windows running along one wall, a queen bed complete with wolf throw and a gas stove/fireplace for cozy heating.

After settling in, I met up with Walt and “the mule,” which turned out to be an all wheel drive vehicle! Okay, so maybe they aren’t ALL about animals. Walt has cut about 5 miles of trails on this land for both walking and cross country skiing. He loves working in the woods and at 72 is fit and full of energy. The cabin is not for rent but the walk up to it is often used by guests as part of the trail system. Walt showed me where the porcupines have been gnawing away at the cabin–but he won’t kill them. Instead he replaces the wood with metal shields to “discourage” them.

A view of the Adirondacks from the cabin trail. Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo

After my trip on “the mule” I was ready for a more active event.  I packed a lunch, grabbed my day pack and a map of the trails and went exploring. The trails are well marked and run in loops. I had lunch at one of three picnic table placed along the trail system, scared up quite a number of grouse as I walked, and saw three deer– all in just two hours of being in the woods. The maple trees were just beginning to show a little color; in a few weeks they would be glorious. The trails run on both sides of the dirt road leading to the B&B. You walk both pasture and woods, with the steepest trails located on the side across from the house.

On my return I met Silver and Mayla, the resident Alaskan Malmutes who are friendly and very well-behaved. They hardly noticed me as I took pictures of  an ornamental crab tree whose shape I found enchanting. I must have taken 20 photos of that tree!

The next day my morning started early: Walt and Annie were leaving for the horse show and asked if I would mind a 7:00 breakfast. Always a morning person, I was delighted. Even though it was a chilly morning with a light frost on the ground, I had breakfast on the screened porch. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to hear the bubbling brook and listen to the bird calls as I ate. Annie graciously provided me with a warm  shoulder wrap for comfort.

Breakfast was juice, bacon, “French Toast Foster” and coffee that was strong enough for my liking!  Annie told me this breakfast is one of their guests’ favorites and they often get calls from returning guests requesting it. The French toast is covered with a caramelized sauce made with maple syrup that comes from the trees on their property. In fact much of the food served here is local and fresh, including bread that is baked just down the road.

Now I was ready for that 32-mile bike ride I had planned. The loop would take me by Lake St Catherine State Park where I would have my picnic lunch. The ride starts in the center of Middletown Springs and heads downhill to the town of Poultney about 8 miles away. Located on the Vermont-New York border in the Lakes Region of Rutland County, Poultney is a community of about 3,600 people and home to Green Mountain College, a four year co-ed Liberal Arts college focusing on environmental studies. The town’s historic buildings now house businesses, including a restaurant in an old train station. There are brochures available for walking tours of downtown Poultney and East Poultney, and a driving tour of the surrounding hollows, farms, and quarries that together make up the history of the town.

Clouds reflected in the waters of Lake St. Catherine. Patricia Lyon-Surrey photo

Camping at Lake St Catherine State Park closes for the season on Labor Day but day use is still available. This 117 acre park with its picnic areas, 50 tent/trailer camping sites and beaches is a busy place during the summer.  The only other visitors this day, though, were a family that included a toddler sitting in and “driving” the paddle boats which were now on dry land.  Who knew they made great babysitters as well as boats?

I rode through the picturesque town of Wells, nestled among mountains, then on to North Pawlet and Pawlet on rolling hills, with the land becoming more pastoral as I returned to Middletown Springs. Altogether a great day of  biking in the Vermont– with little damage in sight.

The leaves are turning and the snow will eventually fall.  Right now, as we are recovering, is a great time to visit and support Vermont.  And, with other people staying away, you might find more opportunities and bargains than you usually would!

To plan your trip:

State of Vermont official tourism site: Vermontvacation.com
 Green Mountain Club
Biking in Vermont
Trail finder

To contribute to flood relief:

VT Irene Flood Relief

The Preservation Trust of Vermont

Farmer Emergency Fund

Edie hiking to eagle viewing spot (Warner Shedd photo)

No, we aren’t entering our second childhood, nor do we expect you to start working on Boy Scout merit badges! We’re talking about the real thing – looking for those magnificent birds that are our national symbol. If you’ve ever seen a bald eagle in person, you know it’s an experience you won’t soon forget.

So it was during a vacation to Prince Edward Island (PEI) in June that we went looking for bald eagles and adventures for seniors. We discovered that there would be plenty of both on PEI, which is decribed as a magical place by everyone we know who has been there.  Yes, we’re aware that we headed to another country to see our national bird, but they’re allowed to take vacations in Canada as much as we are!

We left the mainland and crossed the eight-mile-long Confederation Bridge one morning, driving over what is considered one of Canada’s great engineering and construction feats.  It’s almost worth the trip just to cross it; it’s truly impressive!  Then we turned northeast in order to visit The Cheese Lady’s, where utterly delicious Gouda cheese is made (let’s face it, there’s no escaping good food when we go to Canada; it’s a trial, but we persevere). The Cheese Lady and her helpers sell many different Goudas, some flavored with various herbs and others aged for different lengths of time. We bought three different goudas to sample (splitting the cost between us so that it would be a true “Dutch treat”), and we can tell you it was money well spent!

Then we headed for Mount Stewart where, every year in June, bald eagles gather on Hillsborough Heritage River to feed on the annual run of alewives.  Apparently, it’s not just people (like us!) who “road trip” to Canada for the food.  For the record, alewives have nothing to do with either brewed beverages, spouses, or even spouses who have consumed brewed beverages. They’re a kind of fish, very abundant and, apparently, very tasty to eagles (which are a kind of fish hawk). The town, however, ignores the alewives and simply calls it an annual Bald Eagle Festival with events galore and opportunities to watch the eagles and learn about the Canadian Maritimes ancient cultures.

Because we are confirmed eagle scouts — they are one of our favorite excuses to go exploring — we drove past the Hillsborough River Eco-Centre in Mount Stewart, across a little bridge, and then parked just off a road named Pigot’s Trail that led through fields and along woods beside a lake.  Armed with binoculars and rain jackets, we hiked about a half mile on a wide and flat trail to an eagle observation area. The walking was easy and along the way we stopped to watch a highly trained Labrador retriever perform; it was fascinating to watch him respond to a variety of hand signals and voice commands — especially when he had to retrieve two widely spaced dummies (no, not us…REAL dummies). Then it was on to see the eagles.

Closeup of mature bald eagle. (Ellen Shedd photo)

Soon we came to a side trail, apparently without a name, that turned left and led out onto a long point. In our estimation, it was the best bald eagle observation spot because it juts farther out into the lake than the rest of the shoreline and provides almost a 270 degree view. When we reached the viewing area, we were very glad to have our rain jackets, for the wind was blowing a near gale, and the temperature was somewhere in the upper 40s!  Raingear does great double duty as a windbreaker, luckily for us. We didn’t mind, however, because we tolerate cold far better than hot weather and the wind kept the hordes of mosquitoes that normally infest the area at bay.  At the end of the point we met a man with a spotting scope, and he pointed out some of the regal birds that we might not have seen otherwise.  If you’ve got the extra funds and space in your backpack, a spotting scope can be a great addition to your binoculars; after this experience, we may look into one for ourselves!

We immediately began to see bald eagles, both mature, with their snowy white heads and tails, and the brown or mottled brown immatures. Rest assured, one does not have to be a dedicated birder to appreciate these magnificent creatures. Huge and impressive, they are a feast for the eyes! We hoped we’d see something spectacular, like watching them catching large fish and soaring away with them, but no such luck. Still, we got to watch two adult eagles sitting in the tall grass with a couple of immature eagles. The latter, judging by their solid brown color, were evidently fledglings testing their wings. Half-hidden in the tall grass, they would periodically flap their wings, fly up for a short distance, and then land again in the tall grass. Mom and dad eagle didn’t seem to be mightily impressed with the kids’ efforts, but they were fun for us to watch!

As a bonus, we saw quantities of great blue herons, which are almost as impressive as the eagles.   There’s something prehistoric about them…they almost look as if they could be flying dinosaurs with their long beaks and long legs trailing behind them. At one point we saw five of these great birds flying close together overhead like the Blue Angels! We ended up with a total of 12 spotted on this trip.

There were lots of smaller birds, too. We saw ruddy ducks, ringneck ducks, and flocks of red-winged blackbirds. We could also hear a variety of smaller birds in the alders along the trail and in the woods as we walked back out to the car. Unfortunately, our identification of bird calls is somewhat sketchy, and we could never see the birds, so they remained unidentified. Clearly, though, if you want to take the time, there are lots of birds to be seen; you may want to take a folding chair when you go so that you can relax, enjoy, and expand your life list!

Both mature and immature bald eagles. (Ellen Shedd photo)

Following this adventure, we stopped in St. Peters for lunch at Rick’s Fish and Chips. We were treated to a huge and absolutely delectable meal of the famous PEI mussels, raised at a mussel farm just across the highway from Rick’s. We can’t recommend these mussels highly enough; they’re a rare treat. On the other hand, forget the fried clams on PEI. While not the fault of  Rick’s (the batter was outstanding and the clams were perfectly cooked), visitors who spend a great deal of time on PEI confirmed that clams there are flavorless when compared to Maine clams. Stick with the mussels, and when you leave PEI, head south to Maine for  real fried clams!

Finally, it was on to our oceanside rental, happy with our eagle and heron sightings. We arrived in the mood for more adventures, which we knew we could find in abundance on Prince Edward Island. Our next adventure includes a trip to see the dunes in the Greenwich section of the PEI National Park. 

We should also mention the Confederation Trail, which follows an old railroad bed spanning PEI. There are side trail entrances to this trail, with two of them located in Mount Stewart.  The Confederation Trail offers many fine opportunities for both hiking and biking. A good source of information is the Visitor’s Guide, available at www.tourismpei.com or phone toll free at 1-800-463-4PEI.

If you go:
If you travel to PEI and go out to the prime eagle observation area, be sure to take a windbreaker and plenty of insect protection like a Thermacell, InsectShield clothing, or even a full mesh bug suit, as well as a high DEET insect repellent. If the wind is blowing hard, and the weather is cold, you’ll be glad of the windbreaker. If it’s still, or there’s only a light breeze, the bug protection is vital to ward off the hordes of fierce mosquitoes; without protection, the mosquitoes may carry you up and away until you find yourself flying with the eagles – until the skeeters have drained all your blood, that is!  Take some snacks and something to drink; if you find yourself surrounded by eagles, you won’t want to leave because of a growling stomach.

Lunch break for the entire crew of family and friends at Hugh Gallen Memorial. (Doug Goodin photo)

For the last several years my husband Doug and I have hosted what we call the “Family and Friends Flotilla.” It started as a way to get the entire family together and have some fun and for us to share the kind of activities we enjoy. (You can read about our Flotilla on the Baker River in 2009, and on the Bearcamp River in 2010 here.)

This kind of active family gathering is actually fairly easy to plan. It’s been a great experience for our family, and I highly recommend it for your family, too.

2011 was the fourth annual, Flotilla and this year we added a Friday bike ride to our list of fun things to do during what’s evolved into a full week’s camping trip. Since we were camping near New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch, we thought we would give the Franconia Notch “bike trail” a try. We had heard good things about it from friends and, since it is mostly downhill, it sounded appropriate for our gang of cyclists that ranged in age from 10 to 66 with varied abilities and interests. Doug’s family is from Connecticut and hasn’t seen the wonders of Franconia Notch a bazillion times. Exploring by bike would entice the rest of us to take another, fresh look.

We talked to several people who assured us that the nine-mile ride was easy and mostly downhill, which was good news to our group, most of whom do not spend a lot of time on their bikes. Doug and I ride when we can on the Northern Rail Trail, which runs very near our home, but my bike is a fat-tire single-speed. If I can ride the Franconia Notch trail on a bike with no gears, so can you!

We started at the trailhead for the Skookumchuck Trail, north of the Notch, which led to a few raised eyebrows and (good natured, we hope) comments about false advertising (remember that “mostly” downhill?). From this starting point, the first couple of miles have some uphill pedaling. Still, I didn’t have to walk my single-speed at all (and I don’t get out on my bike all that much). You can avoid the uphills almost entirely by starting at the parking lot at the Lafayette Bridge Overlook, Echo Lake, or at the foot of Cannon, where you can  rent bikes for the trip.

If you do plan to rent, dress appropriately (meaning always wear a helmet and have, at least, sneakers on your feet) and bring water. Other options for renting bikes can be found at Loon Mountain or Rodgers Ski & Sport in Lincoln. Both offer transport to Echo Lake for rentals and personal bikes. Whether you are riding a rental or your own bike, make sure it is in working order and test your brakes, especially if you are going north to south. If you or someone in your group has physical limitations, contact New England Disabled Sports at Loon Mountain: They have hand cycles available and events throughout the summer.

Doug and Max don't have a lot of extra room passing the bollard. This one is south of Profile Lake. (Kate Goodin photo)

Motorized vehicles are kept off the trail at intersections with roadways by bollards. They narrow the space bikes have to pass, so be aware; you are going to see them again and again. They look intimidating at first, but proved wide enough for Doug to get through while towing our son Max in his Schwinn trailer.

Your first real view is of Mt. Lafayette as you cross a bridge that once was part of Rt 3. Ahead is a parking lot with a sculpture of former Governor Hugh Gallen. We had lunch there as some of our crew had apparently not eaten enough for breakfast (nudge, nudge).

Artist's Bluff from the bike path. (Kate Goodin photo)

Use caution when getting back on the bike path. You are about to head downhill, and some of it proved steep, winding, and, for some in our crew, too wild for their blood. They walked their bikes.

Almost immediately the trail starts heading up again and comes out to an unusual (at least for those of us used to the view from the road) look at Artist’s Bluff. A bit more huffing and puffing brings you to Echo Lake and the end of any major uphills. A few of our crew took a quick dip in the lake, despite the wind and whitecaps (Franconia Notch State Park has a nice beach and charges $4 admission for adults; $2 for children ages 6-11; children ages 5 and under and NH residents age 65 and over are admitted free). It was a hot day and the water was reportedly “refreshing.” I think they meant cold.

By this point in the ride, we already had riders running low on water, so it was off to the Cannon Aerial Tramway Base, where we stopped for a long break and lunch for those not hungry earlier, ice cream (for a surprisingly good price!), and a water refill.

It’s a little unclear how to pick up the bike path from the Cannon Tram Base parking lot (the actual path bypasses it), so we sent out a search party to make sure the trail was where we thought it would be, and then a search party to find the search party. Eventually, we regrouped on the trail. The trick is to simply head south out of the parking lot.

The highway isn't far through those trees, but I had this wild looking spot all to myself. (Kate Goodin photo)

Soon you come to beautiful views of the cliffs on Cannon Mountain and Profile Lake. Despite the shouts of my crew to pedal like mad to make it up the hill, I stopped to take pictures. The hill was short but steep and, from a stand-still, I just barely made it on the single-speed without having to walk.

After one sharp left hand turn under the highway, you pedal to the edge of Profile Lake. From here the trail is almost all downhill (no kidding). You go back under the highway, past a great little access point to the tail end of Profile Lake (where we spotted a family of geese), and then come to a blissful respite from pedaling alongside the highway. Enjoy it, because once you get to Lafayette campground, the rest of the path parallels the notch highway for much of the way and traffic is steady on busy weekends.

Some great little pull-out spots along the trail reveal things you would never see otherwise: different views of landmarks you are used to seeing from the road; secret swampy areas where you might see a bear or moose. More than likely, unless you are on the trail when you are not supposed to be, (the trail is open ½ hour before sunrise to ½ hour after sunset), bears will be in hiding. We did, however, see several telltale, berry-laden bear pies on the path….

This is NOT a bike walk zone! (Kate Goodin photo)

South of Profile Lake, keep your eyes peeled for “bike walk zones.” They aren’t always adequately marked. Keep in mind that this is, technically, a “multi-use” path and the walk zones are necessary for safety reasons. One of them stretches for a while and I can only guess that walking it really does make sense on a busy Saturday or Sunday.

There are several places along the path near The Basin where you can stop and admire, and even take a dip in, the Pemigewasset River. There are enough pools and spots to pull off the trail so that, at times, we had the place to ourselves.

After the Basin parking lot, the bike path passes under I-93 again into a lovely woodsy section along the foot of Mount Liberty, and, beyond that, is the trailhead for Libery Springs Trail. There is a road crossing somewhere in this section that doesn’t appear on my map. It’s by no means a high traffic road, but keep an eye on the kids and the path.

Finally, you’re upon the Flume parking lot before you know it. If you’ve staged a car here, you can drive back to your starting point knowing you’ve experienced Franconia Notch in a new way; you’ve seen the tourist spots and earned your ice cream, too!

We had this beautiful waterfall and the pool below it all to ourselves. (Kate Goodin photo)

If you go:

Franconia Notch State Park Recreation Path distances (Traveling South from Skookumchuck & Rt. US 3)

• Total  mileage: 8.8 miles
• Skookumchuck to Lafayette Brook Bridge scenic vista south end: 1.49 miles (mostly uphill)
• Lafayette Brook Bridge to north end of Echo Lake and junction with Rt.18: 0.68 miles
• North end of Echo Lake to aerial tramway parking lot: 0.59 miles
• Tramway to north end of Profile Lake underpass: 0.54 miles
• North end of Profile Lake Underpass to southern end of Profile Lake hiker parking area: 0.68 miles
• Southern end of Profile Lake parking to Lafayette Campground: 1.3 miles
• Lafayette Campground to Basin viewing area: 1.7 miles
• Basin viewing area to Whitehouse Bridge: 0.88 miles
• Whitehouse Bridge to the Flume: 0.95 miles

Be Prepared:

While there are places, most notably at the Cannon tram building, where you can buy water, snacks, and even good ice cream along the trail, it’s always a good idea to carry water, at least, and your own snacks. This is especially important on a hot day, particularly, if you start at the north end.

Editors’ Trail Notes: More experienced cyclists who like to travel fast and far are not likely to enjoy biking the Franconia Recreation Path, especially on summer and fall weekends when it can get congested. But it can be a joy as a family ride if you pay attention to your own behavior and abilities and those of any children in your group.  The more popular parts of the path around The Basin and other hotspots might require some walking of bikes to be safe. Bring a bike lock for side trips by foot to the notch’s attractions off the path.

My daughter Doris (14) was already up on Cash, a chestnut mare with a glossy coat so fine that you could see the veins through the skin of her well-muscled legs. Doris looked comfortable enough, but I knew that like me, she was feeling a bit of trepidation along with the excitement over this day’s adventure.

A Horse, and a Course, for Everyone

The adventure had begun the night before, when we drove up to Mountain Top. My husband Jed and my 17-year-old daughter Loretta didn’t come with us, mostly due to their busy schedules, but also because Doris and I are the major horse lovers in the family. Although entire-family adventures are great, any parent can attest to the value of one-on-one time with a child, and I was looking forward to spending some “quality time” with Doris.

Mountain Top's sign beckons you from the road. (Jenny Donelan photo.)

Mountain Top is prettily situated along a quiet road about 11 miles from Killington Ski Resort. The resort began as a turnip farm in the 1800s, and became a popular inn during the 1940s. President Eisenhower stayed here in 1955. With its lake and mountain views, year-round activities, relaxed atmosphere, and plush, comfortable accommodations, Mountain Top Inn & Resort is a spectacular place to stay in any season for any reason. This August, we were there for the horses. Mountain Top’s Equestrian Center offers one of the most comprehensive vacation-based horseback programs in the Northeast. The folks there can handle never-ever beginners (or once-in-a-blue-moon near-beginners like Doris and me) as well as expert riders and everyone in between. Mountain Top offers trail rides of different lengths, and also instruction in both English and Western riding, with advanced classes such as Jumping and Introduction to Cross Country Jumping.

Doris and I were signed up for a one-hour trail ride the next morning, which seemed like a prudent way to ease back into the saddle. In the meantime, we were hungry, so as soon as we checked into our cozy room with its quilted bedspreads and view of the lake, we headed straight for the restaurant. We sat outside, like almost all the other guests that night, on a large flagstone patio overlooking the lake (actually Chittendon Reservoir), which was surrounded by the mountains of Green Mountain National Forest. Whether it was the amazing view, the outdoor setting, the laid-back ambiance, or all three, “It reminds me of Europe,” said Doris.

We enjoyed a leisurely meal in the company of fellow diners ranging from large families to couples young, elderly, and in between. Mountain Top is a family place, but it’s also (note for later) ideal for a romantic getaway. Everything was excellent, but we especially enjoyed the corn fritters floating atop a thick corn chowder (all made from local produce).

Doris, perhaps imagining that she is in an outdoor café in Vienna, enjoys a cup of tea on the patio before our ride. (Jenny Donelan photo.)

The next morning, after a big buffet breakfast, Doris and I made the short walk to the equestrian center along a road lined with day lilies, Queen Anne’s lace, and black-eyed Susans. We saw a lab and a collie being walked and I found out later that Mountain Top has five pet-friendly cabins among its lodge, cabin, and chalet offerings. At the stable headquarters, which also serves as Mountain Top’s Nordic Ski and Snowshoe Center in winter, we selected helmets (riding helmets are a must at Mountain Top) and headed out to meet our steeds.

Happy Trails Year ‘Round

While I was contemplating the daunting physics of putting a foot in a stirrup that seemed nearly shoulder high, and swinging my body in some improbable way up over the horse, our guide, Genna Smith, explained that at Mountain Top they like to use a mounting block, “to save the horses’ backs.” (She saved my dignity by not mentioning anything about saving the riders’ dignity.) Once I was up, Genna adjusted the length of my stirrups so I sat more comfortably. She asked me if I knew how to steer and I said I did. In Western riding, which is what we were doing on this trail ride, you hold the reins in one hand and guide the horse with a light pressure of the reins on its neck. As we waited for the other three riders in our group to mount up, Creo decided to meander off somewhere. I pulled back on the reins a bit and said, “Hey, where are you going?” She paused; her tulip-shaped ears swiveled back, then forward; and she stopped. Maybe this was going to be all right.

Our fellow trail riders were also women, two of them an aunt and her niece from Montreal. Our third companion, who arrived last, got to ride Jill, one of the resort’s draft horses. Jill also helps pull the resort’s carriage and sleigh. All three arrived in jodhpurs and riding boots, thereby intimidating, er, impressing us, and all had been staying and riding at Mountain Top for a couple of days. They seemed to know the horses by name, and I was a little envious when we heard them talking about all the riding they’d been doing that week.

This picture of me on Creo is an optical illusion. In real life, this horse was huge, really enormous. You had to have been there. (Doris Donelan photo.)

We set off single file and were quickly into the woods. The trail rides at Mountain Top make extensive use of the resort’s 60 kilometers of Nordic ski trails, many of which wind through the trees. For that reason, even though the day was hot, we had possibly the most comfortable trail ride I have ever had, in the cool of the forest. All the XC skiing trail signs also offered a tantalizing view of what the place would be like in winter – pretty darned amazing. Doris and I are primarily alpine skiers, but maybe that will change. As we looked at some of the winding black trails during our ride, and imagined doing them on straight skis, we were impressed – and intrigued.

We passed through fields of fern and some other type of tall, skinny wild plant that our horses found delicious. They kept swiping mouthfuls of it as we rode along. “It’s like a big salad bar,” said one of the women from Montreal. Although I’d wondered if Doris and I would hold these more experienced riders back, that didn’t seem to be the case. We were all seemed to be enjoying the rhythm of the ride, and the scenery.

Genna turned around and eyed us all for a minute. “Do you want to do some trotting?” she asked. My heart raced. Trotting was outside of my comfort zone at that moment. “Sure!” I said. She set her horse, Wrangler, to a quick trot up a small incline. Creo thought it would be a better idea to bypass trot and proceed directly to canter, and before I knew it we were flying along with a rhythmic ba boom, ba boom (that was the sound of my rear end hitting the saddle). I pulled back on her reins and said “Whoa!” or maybe it was “Hamina-hamina.” In any event, Creo slowed immediately, settling down to a steady trot just like Wrangler’s in front of me and Cash’s behind me. Chugging up the mountain, the breeze flowing past our heads, nervousness gave way to exhilaration as we all hit our strides. After we got to the top of the hill, Doris patted Cash’s neck and I could hear her praising her mount.

Reminders of winter are everywhere at Mountain Top. Here, a snow gun on the left keeps company with the white carriage the resort uses for weddings. Note: Mountain Top makes snow for Nordic skiing. (Jenny Donelan photo.)

At one point, Genna spotted a deer, and we all watched a reddish doe twitching her tail in a shallow wooded depression near the trail. It is amazing how much more you can see from the back of a horse, and how quickly you can move along the rockiest of trails. Horses really are the ultimate all-terrain vehicles; and, with apologies to car and truck enthusiasts out there, you can’t have the same kind of rapport with your F-150 that you do with a horse. At one point, a greenish-blue fly landed on Creo’s neck. She shook her head and flicked her ears and twitched her skin repeatedly, but the bug did not move. Finally I leaned forward, a bit farther forward than I was really comfortable leaning, and shooed the fly away. She was worth it.

Genna, our guide, told us she was from Brandon, Vermont. She is all of 19 years old but has been riding since she was five and looks as comfortable on horseback as I do on my living room couch. Maybe more. She rides competitively and is currently pursuing barrel racing. I asked her if you could really ride at Mountain Top as a never-ever and she said absolutely. The most important things to learn, she explained, are how to steer and how to stop – “especially how to stop.” Yes, another reminder of skiing.

Mountain Top guide Genna Smith (here mounted on Wrangler) is 19 years old and already owns four horses. So many horses, so little time. (Jenny Donelan photo.)

I would talk about the rest of our ride, and about saying goodbye to Creo, but I would get all choked up, so I will let Doris, and then a picture, tell the rest of that story:

 Doris Donelan’s View (From the Top of “Cash”)

Walking up to Mountain Top’s horse-riding center, I was slightly anxious. I had only ridden a horse three times in the past 10 years. I always worry about actually getting on the horse. Those fears were soon eased, as it became apparent that we would all get on our horses by way of a mounting block. After I got settled on my horse, Cash, we were off. Our trail group was very small: just my mom, three women, and me. Any concerns I had about Cash bolting off into the trees soon proved groundless. All of the horses were very well behaved, and we went down our hour-long trail in a neat single-file line.

The trail ride was absolutely gorgeous. We were hardly ever out in the open fields, almost always within the canopy of the trees. I was free to look around me as we ascended and descended. The wildlife was amazing. I saw countless birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and even a deer! When our party arrived at the halfway point, the horses stopped to have a nibble of grass. There was a magnificent view from where we sat on our horses next to a small lake. You could see gray mountains rising in the distance, and endless acres of trees all around.

It seems obvious by this point, but I loved my trip on Cash. Our guide was very nice and knew a lot about the horses and the land. My only complaint was my sore bum after we all got off. I feel the brief trotting excursions I had with my horse might have been the cause of that . . .

My dad Jed and my sister Loretta don’t like horses as much as my mom and I do. However, I do remember a time when we all went on a long trail ride in Colorado that was very fun. On the trail ride at Mountain Top, my mom and I laughed at our abysmal attempts to take pictures while on the back of a bumpy horse. It was fun to do this ride with my mom, especially since neither of us is too impressive on a horse.

Creo is a great horse, though I have to say that all the horses at Mountain Top seem well-trained and well-behaved -- they're just not quite as great as Creo. (Doris Donelan Photo)

Paddling Away

Yes, we were a little saddle sore as we made our way back to the lodge. But only a little. We had just enough time to check out the lake before heading home. Mountain Top has a private beach with canoes, kayaks, and paddle boats, and we couldn’t resist taking a paddleboat out for a spin. We headed out, rounded the buoy, and aimed for shore. On our way in, we both agreed we’d love to come back to Mountain Top. With all the horseback riding, hiking, swimming, boating, horseshoes, clay pigeon shooting, and other activities that Mountain Top offers (not to mention the skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating, sleigh riding etc. in winter), you could spend many days here and never be bored. Or, you could spend many days just sitting in a comfy chair and staring at the view, and never be bored.

We definitely plan to ride again at Mountain Top. Maybe we’ll even take some lessons next time. We owe it to the horses.

If you go:

• Riding boots are the best, but sturdy closed-toed shoes work too. Absolutely no sandals or flipflops.

• Wear sturdy long pants, like jeans, or jodhpurs if you’ve got them. You do not want to ride in shorts.

• Make sure you reserve your ride when you reserve your room (Mountain Top has many great riding vacation packages you may want to check out.)

• Be honest with the stable staff about your ability, your height, and weight. They will match you with a horse that will make your time as enjoyable as possible.

To find out more about a riding vacation at Mountain Top Inn & Resort, visit the Equestrian Center web page. To read more about riding and other fun at Mountaintop, see the Eastern Slopes articles Cowgirling in Vermont; Learning How to Ride, Jump Fences, and Shoot! and Whoosh! Pop! Splat! Giggle.

The flat surface and gentle gradients of old railroad beds make wonderful bike trails when paved or resurfaced with gravel or stone dust. (Tim Jones photo)

At one time, the social and commercial fabric of the Northeast was stitched together by railroads. Today, of course, the stitching is done by highways and phone and internet connections, but in many places, the remnants of that rail system still exist in the form of the thousands of miles of rail beds that were built to last.

Some of these long-abandoned and often-neglected rail beds are finding a new and lofty purpose: recreational resources getting people outdoors and exercising. In the winter, these rail trails, often packed and maintained by snowmobilers, are enjoyed by cross-country skiers and dog sledders. In the spring, summer and fall, walkers, joggers, and bicyclists take over. Paved trails are used by skaters and skateboarders. Everyone has a good time.

Rail beds make perfect recreation trails. They are normally high and dry and well drained so they don’t usually get muddy in the spring or after a prolonged rain. They also tend to climb any hills on the route in long, slow gradients rather than steep pitches, which makes it easier for both walkers and bikers.

There are quite a number of rail trails scattered throughout the Northeast, and even more in the planning stages. On some, all you have is a short section, usually in or near a city, that has been rescued from oblivion. But quite a few trails offer a longer ride.

My sweetheart Marilyn and I are enthusiastic pedalers of rail trails. It’s one of the reasons why we chose a fat-tire tandem bike instead of a sleeker, faster road-bike model. The fatter tires on our Burley “Samba” (alas, no longer made) roll easily over gravel, stone dust and cinder trail surfaces.

We haven’t ridden every rail trail in the  region. Not even close. But we have ridden some of the more famous ones like the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail,  the granddaddy of all Eastern rail rides, which has been completely refurbished in recent years. This was part of our route as we biked Cape Cod end-to-end in 2010. We’ve also ridden a number of less-well-known trails. Here’s a rail-trail sampler to show you how much fun you can have on these great recreational resources.

Airline Rail Trail 

This exuberant little waterfall along Connecticut’s Air Line Rail Trail sang a soothing melody to anyone who bothered to stop and listen. (Tim Jones photo)

Some time ago, an unavoidable business obligation took Marilyn and me to a crowded, noisy, smokey place that we normally wouldn’t go anywhere near. On the way home, we got in a stress-reducing, sanity-saving hour or two of pedaling on the Air Line Rail Trail in East Hampton, Connecticut, a few minutes southeast of the junction of Interstates 84 and 91 in Hartford. This trail will eventually stretch more than 50 miles to the Massachusetts border where it will join with the Southern New England Trunkline Trail, but, for now, only the southern section, 22.7 miles long, from East Hampton to Windham offers an unbroken ride.

It was a cool and breezy spring afternoon, perfect for leisurely riding. Unfortunately, we’d gotten a much later start than hoped, and we could comfortably explore only the first few miles of the trail. That’s OK; what we saw was beautiful, and left us eager to go back and see more.

Even a crowded state like Connecticut has its quiet, unspoiled corners. This is one of them. The few miles of trail we rode had a whole day’s worth of scenery. In places the trail rose high above the countryside, giving expansive views of woodlands and wetlands. In other places, it cut deep into hillsides where flowing springs tumbled in miniature waterfalls. We rode through quiet woodlands, along streams, and by ponds where people were fishing and photographing the birds.

On our ride, we left behind the stresses of work, had fun, renewed ourselves in a beautiful place. What more could you ask for? All it took was a willingness to get on a bike and pedal.

Aroostook Recreation Trails

The rail trails in Aroostook County are true multi-use recreation paths, used by snowmobilers and cross-country skiers in winter, bikers and ATVs the rest of the year. (Tim Jones photo)

Known sometimes at “The Crown of Maine,” or, more simply as “The County,” Aroostook County, is located in the upper right-hand corner not only of the State of Maine, but also of the entire U. S. of A. Next stop, Canada. It’s the largest county in land area east of the Mississippi, covering 6,829 square miles. Less than 75,000 people live there. That leaves a lot of empty space to play outdoors.

Winter in Aroostook Country is the big tourist season. Snowmobilers come from all over, drawn by deep snow and immaculately groomed trails. But, those trails don’t disappear when the snow melts. About 80 miles of them are the old rail beds of the Bangor and Aroostook and Aroostook Valley Railway lines with easy gradients and hard gravel surfaces, perfect for riding a fat-tire bike.

We based our trip out of Caribou, which has lots of inexpensive motels and a couple of great restaurants (Try the Osso Bucco at Napoli’s which is under new ownership, and the Scallops Frangelico at the Greenhouse in the Caribou Inn).

Our ride started in Caribou, and headed toward Washburn for a few miles before turning sharp right and heading toward New Sweden, which has some of the best biking views ever. These trails apparently get lots of traffic from motorized ATVs on the weekends, but the few four-wheelers we saw were no problem at all. There are no sharp corners so everyone can see what’s coming and everyone shares the trail nicely.

Sections of the trail are re-graded every three or four years, so some are rougher than others. Marilyn and I were riding our fat-tire tandem; on most of the trail we flew along comfortably, but in other places a suspension (or suspension seatpost) to cushion some of the bumps would have made the ride more comfortable. In some places we rode through virtual tunnels of spruce trees, in others we could see for miles across rolling country, and still other places crossed wetlands with active beaver workings on both sides of the trail. All of it was beautiful, especially with the last of Autumn’s colors still flaming.

In the town of New Sweden we stopped to refuel at a great little store a half-mile off the end of the trail, then pedaled a short road section (not a single car passed us!) to pick up another fork of the trail that brought us back toward Caribou to the car. In all we covered about 25 miles—less than a third of what’s available.

If you are ever exploring “The County” when there’s no snow, be sure to bring your mountain bike!

Ashuwillticook Rail Trail 

The Berkshires rise gently over the flat Ashuwillticook Rail Trail. (Tim Jones photo)

While exploring the biking in the beautiful Berkshires, we discovered the Ashuwillticook Rail Trail which runs 11.2 miles from the Lanesborough/Pittsfield town line through Cheshire and into the center of Adams. Though the trail parallels busy Route 8, you see very little of the highway. The views, instead are of Berkshire Pond, Mount Greylock and a dozen other hills, the Cheshire Reservoir and the Hoosic River.

This is one of the nicest bike paths we have ever had the pleasure to ride. The only thing it lacked was other riders. Marilyn and I were staying at nearby Jiminy Peak and got up early two mornings to ride the entire trail as a warm-up for a long day of biking. Flat, fast and scenic (especially early in the morning), and with very few road crossings, this is the perfect before-breakfast bike ride on a summer morning.

While chatting with local bikers, we heard rumors that the Ashuwillticook Rail Trail may eventually be extended from Pittsfield all the way to Williamstown, which would let it rival the Cape Cod Rail Trail as one of the truly great recreation paths in all of New England.

As it is now, it’s still well worth the ride. If you’re ever in the area, be sure to check it out.

Cape Cod Rail Trail

This handsome Eastern Box Turtle (a threatened species) shared the Cape Cod Rail Trail with us on a rainy June morning. (Tim Jones photo)

The first Rail Trail I ever encountered  and the one I’ve ridden most is the fully paved, 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail that stretches from Dennis to Wellfleet, Mass. It got me hooked the first time I rode it and I’ve ridden it dozens of times since. Every chance I get, as a matter of fact. . . .

The western end of the trail is the most enjoyable for a casual, leisurely ride, maybe combined with a swim on a warm day. This section runs from Route 134 in Dennis (there’s a large parking area just south of exit 9 off the Mid-Cape Highway) into Brewster. Here, the trail winds over easy hills, through shaded woodlands, past cranberry bogs, ponds with beaches and to the Pleasant Lake General Store in Harwich.

The central third (from the Pleasant Lake General Store to Salt Pond Road) used to have a fair amount of roadside riding but much of that has vanished with the addition of a new bridge over Route 6 in Orleans (which reduced the trail’s length from 26 to 22 miles, but improved the quality of the experience). Nickerson State Park, the half-way point of the Rail Trail, boasts both beaches and campsites. Orleans is a convenient turn-around point from either end of the trail with shops, galleries, restaurants and harbor view–the perfect place to take a break.  Carry a bike lock and a backpack so you can fully enjoy it!

The eastern third, from Salt Pond Road in Eastham to Le Count Hollow Road in Wellfleet, is straight, flat, and fast, but not particularly scenic. It’s a good place to work up your heart rate. Side trips, to the Visitors Center at the Cape Cod National Seashore and Coast Guard Beach, to Nauset Light or to Marconi Wireless Station, where instantaneous global radio communications began on January 18, 1903, make this section more interesting.

The Cape Cod Rail Trail is free. You can get a trail map or rent a bike from Idle Times Bike Shop , with rental outlets in Eastham, Orleans and Wellfleet.

Island Line Rail Trail

You can ride your bike across Lake Champlain on the Island Line Trail. (Tim Jones photo)

Up in northwestern Vermont, the spectacular 12-mile Island Line Trail actually crosses a portion of Lake Champlain between Burlington and South Hero. You’ve never ridden anything quite like it. We’ve now ridden on this amazing trail three times, once on solo bikes and twice on our tandem. We can’t wait for a fourth time! Sadly, the trail was badly damaged by floods in the spring of 2011, and, as this was written in the summer of 2011, fund raising and volunteer efforts were underway to get the trail repaired. Check with Local Motion for updates on the trail’s recovery

The first time we rode the trail,  Marilyn and I were in Burlington researching a travel story and, as usual, we were looking to take advantage of all the wonderful outdoor opportunities that city has to offer. But, according to the weather prognosticators, we were in for the hottest two days in several years with increasing humidity each day.

Fortunately, we were based at the Burlington Hilton, just a short stroll from Burlington’s busy waterfront. So stroll we did—very slowly—down to Local Motion, a non-profit group which promotes bike trails in the area and rents top-quality hybrid cruiser bikes. We rented our bikes there and then walked them (slowly) back through the blazing inferno to the hotel and put them in storage. (Local Motion doesn’t open until ten o’clock in the morning, so you have to plan ahead for an early morning ride in the summer heat.)

The next morning we were up before the sun, snacked lightly, drank lots of water, and headed out. In the gray early light filtered by the rising mists, the temperature was in the 60s, and a breeze was blowing from the cooler waters of the lake. It felt like Heaven compared to the Hell of the previous afternoon.

There are lots of bike paths around Burlington and in the Champlain Valley. But the jewel in the crown is the Island Line Trail, a rails to trails project that spans 12.5 miles of mostly-level riding along the lake. With the rising sun slowly burning off the morning clouds, and the air still cool, the Island Line Trail was just magical. For the first hour, we had the path completely to ourselves as we pedaled north, out of Burlington toward the Champlain Islands, a great place for pedaling and paddling.

At just under the 10-mile marker, (we started at Mile Two), the trail suddenly bursts from the woods and follows the old rail line out on a man-made causeway dividing Malletts Bay from the main body of Lake Champlain. The rail line was built on a bed of huge blocks of marble dumped onto the lake bed and filled in with gravel. Flat and gently curving, it makes a perfect bike trail for a hybrid or mountain bike.

We rode out onto this incredibly beautiful stretch of path just as the sun finally began burning through the last of the morning haze, but the breeze off the water kept things comfortably cool. We rode on to the 12.5-mile mark, where a drawbridge has been removed, preventing you from continuing on to South Hero. In the summer, at least on weekends, there’s  a ferry to take bicycles across this gap, but it doesn’t run at 6:30 in the morning.

As we rode back toward Burlington, the sun began to increase in strength, and the trail became busier with walkers, joggers and other cyclists. By the time we got back to the hotel, it was a hot summer day. We showered, strolled out for breakfast at Penny Cluse Café, and got on with the day’s “work”.

Since then, we’ve been back twice and enjoyed every mile of the trail on our tandem. This is one of the great rail trail experiences.

Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail

Farming is still a part of everyday life along the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail. (Tim Jones photo)

Historic St. Albans, Vermont (believe it or not, the site of a Civil War Confederate raid!) is the start of the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail . From there it winds its way 26.4 miles northeast to the town of Richford, Vermont, right on the Canadian border.

Marilyn’s favorite outdoor pastime spring, summer and fall is riding our fat-tire tandem bike, and there’s no place she’d rather ride than on a rail trail. The Missisquoi Rail Trail is a beauty with a smooth, packed gravel surface and easy grades. It runs mostly through stunningly bucolic Vermont countryside with farm fields and pastures, occasionally small towns. Enosburg Falls at mile 16.5 is a perfect spot to stop for lunch. If your pedaling partner doesn’t happen to be a nutrition counselor who is concerned about your cholesterol numbers, there’s a wonderful spot for soft-serve ice cream cones (they call them “creemies” in Vermont) a few miles beyond Enosburg Falls. Unfortunately we had other stops to make. Sigh.

That last third of the trip has Jay Peak looming in your sights as you pedal beside the Missisquoi River. You can watch it get closer with each turn of the pedals.

Eventually, the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail will be extended to the nearby Canadian Border, where it will connect with Quebec’s Route Verte—an extensive network of bicycle paths and bike lanes that crisscrosses the entire Province. There are also plans in the works to build the connecting Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, which will run 92 miles from Swanton to St. Johnsbury. The Vermont Association of Snow Travelers (VAST), a statewide snowmobile club is spearheading this effort. Hooray for them!

Even without those additional enticements, the Missisquoi Rail Trail is worth visiting. If 53 miles is too much for you to ride in a day, take a couple of days, stay somewhere on Lake Champlain—there are quiet B&B’s, inexpensive motels and campgrounds all around here. Make an active vacation of it!

Northern Rail Trail 

This covered bridge is just a tiny part of the scenery that surprises you at every turn along the Northern Rail Trail. (Marilyn Donnelly photo)

The Northern Rail Trail (NRT) in Grafton and Merrimack Counties of New Hampshire is shaping up to be one of the best rail trail rides in all of New England. The stone-dust or gravel surface is firm, easy to pedal on (especially with a fat tire or cyclocross bike), and the scenery is beautiful. And, maybe someday, the two organizations which created this marvelous trail will be able to cooperate on a single website devoted to it . . .

This trail is particularly convenient to reach. If you are traveling on Interstate 91 in Vermont, or 93 in New Hampshire, you are only 15 minutes from a trail terminus, and access from I-89 is even faster. If your bike is on the car anyway, why not stop and ride for an hour or two?

I should note that Marilyn and I don’t particularly enjoy riding with a lot of road traffic. Though the NRT essentially parallels either Route 4 or Route 11 for its entire length, you don’t often see or even hear motor vehicles. Much of the time you are riding through quiet woods and fields, alongside beautiful flowing streams and placid ponds.

The northern end of the trail in Grafton County, was finished first. It runs 23 miles from downtown Lebanon through Enfield, Canaan, Orange and Grafton. Another 23 miles in Merrimack County have now been completed. This section runs through Danbury, Wilmot, and Andover to end (for the moment at least) in Franklin. Eventually, the trail will grow to 65 miles in length, continuing on to Boscawen and Concord; though in these days of tight money and endless budget fights, who knows when that will happen?

Marilyn and I have been riding short sections of the NRT when we were in the neighborhood on other business. I believe we’ve done most of it . . .

On one recent summer morning, we pulled into the parking area at Potter Place, right off the junction of Routes 4 and 11, and started pedaling east toward Franklin. We only had about an hour to ride and hoped we could get in 10 or 12 miles or so. Not a “big” ride, but fun nonetheless.

This section of trail is almost flat (most rail lines avoided hills as much as possible) and has a nicely packed gravel/stone dust surface. It runs along the Blackwater River, through pine and hardwood forests, skirting the edges of some beautiful wetlands. Gorgeous scenery for a summer morning.

We’d pedaled only about two miles before we came upon a lovely covered bridge we’d never seen before. At about the 6-mile mark we ran out of time and turned around at the Higland Lake Inn in East Andover which looks like it would make a perfect overnight stop for a weekend getaway along the trail.

On another memorable occasion we started on Riverside Drive in Lebanon in the shadow of I-89, pedaled out for an hour or so (12-13 miles at our normal pace) turned around and pedaled back. This section of the trail is flat—no hills at all–and the surface is mostly packed stone dust or gravel. It had been very rainy in the days before, but we only found a couple of wet spots.

Our ride took us past Mascoma Lake (wonderful views), through the tiny village of Enfield (potential lunch spot at the deli/market in the center of town), and out through the wilds of Canaan. The trail crosses lots of streams and rivers on nicely surfaced bridges (many heartfelt thanks to the snowmobile clubs that maintain them!). It’s just a perfect ride.

Someday soon, we’ll take two cars, make a real adventure of it and ride the whole NRT end-to-end in one day. But for now, these section rides out and back are a perfect break on a busy summer morning. For us, 46 miles of pedaling would make a good long day and this is one trail we are looking forward to doing end-to-end-to-end. Maybe we’ll see you there . . .

Finding Other Rail Trails

The Island Line Trail which starts on Burlington's waterfront is easy to find, others require more searching. (Tim Jones photo)

New England and New York are blessed with an abundance of old railroad beds, many of which are rideable on fat-tire bikes. The Rails to Trails Conservancy is the driving force behind much of this trail development, and they maintain the most complete free list I’ve found of Rail Trails in the Northeast and in most states across the country. Just go under “Find A Trail” and click on either a state or a region to find listings. There are 392 open trails in the northeast totaling over 3200 miles.

If you ride in New Hampshire, be sure to get a copy of Charles F. Martin’s book, New Hampshire Rail Trails, which gives the history of the rail lines along with useful info for today’s bikers. The website itself also has some useful links to other trail organizations.

In addition to the two trails profiled above, Massachusetts has  the 11-mile Nashua River Rail Trail, which  is completed and ready to ride. The 11-mile Norwottuck Rail Trail, in Northampton, Hadley, and Amherst is complete and will eventually anchor one end of the 104-mile Mass. Central Rail Trail leading all the way to Boston. There’s also one called the Southern New England Trunkline Trail a 20-mile trail runs between the Franklin and Douglas State Forests along the Rhode Island and Connecticut borders. Apparently, however, this trail can’t be ridden end to end as most bridges along the route are out or unsafe.

Up in Maine, there’s a whole slew of rail trails in the area just north and west of Bangor. The Lagrange to Medford trail is 11 miles long, the Newport to Dover-Foxcroft is 26 miles. This looks perfect for a multi-day getaway.  The Downeast Sunrise Trail runs from Washington Junction in Ellsworth to Ayers Junction just south of Calais.  And, Aroostook County has a number of rail trails.

If you know any good rail trails I’ve missed, email me and I’ll add them. The more people who ride these trails, the more trails we’ll have to enjoy in the future.

Since new trails are always in development, the list is never complete. If you really want to explore, check out these historic topographical maps—which lists then-active railroads. Some of these old roadbeds are just waiting for the crunch of your boot soles or bike treads.

Trail Etiquette

Everyone's welcome on rail trails. Bikers and joggers must safely share the trails which means everyone must be aware of where they are and what's ahead and behind. (Tim Jones photo)

On the more popular rail trails, people are moving at different speeds as they walk, skate or bike, so people are always passing each other. Since there typically isn’t any motorized traffic, you can sometimes be lulled into a false sense of security and get careless. When people get careless, accidents happen.

Here are some thoughts for safety.

1) Be aware of your surroundings and alert for anyone moving faster than you are.

2) Pedestrians and cyclists alike should follow the rules of the road, with cyclists riding on the right and pedestrians walking facing on-coming traffic. The center of the trail should be treated as a “passing lane” not a travel lane.

3) Cyclists passing pedestrians should communicate their intentions well ahead of time (especially if the pedestrians are walking with their backs to you) and slow down until they are sure the walkers know they are there.  Get one of those little handlebar bells; it’s a friendly way to let people know that you’re behind them and about to pass.  Having a mirror on your bike is a good idea, too, so YOU know if someone is about to pass you.

4) Don’t wear headphones, especially when walking or running or cycling. Listening to music, you’re cutting yourself off from voice communication. Not only are you missing bird calls and the natural sounds of wind and water, you are also putting yourself and the people around you at greater risk. Think about it.

Some popular rail trails can get very crowded on weekends in good weather, with everyone from tiny tots in backpacks to active seniors all out enjoying a little fresh air and exercise. If everyone is courteous and aware of others using the path, and keeps to their own side of the trail, the mix of uses works just fine.

Boston from under the Longfellow Bridge. A view for kayakers only! (Caroline McDonald photo)

Between record-breaking temperatures and a serious lack of air conditioning in my adopted city, the heat becomes unbearable.  So, I did what most Bostonians do: located the nearest body of water and made a beeline to it.

Fortunately for me, the Charles River is only about a mile from my apartment. During the summer, it vibrates with activity. From sunbathers to yachters to Canada geese on summer vacation, water lovers of all sorts come to enjoy the natural waterway that divides the brick and concrete of Boston and Cambridge.

A couple of weeks ago on my bike tour of Boston with Urban Adventours, I noticed kayakers in the Charles for the first time. Ever since, I’ve been eager to try kayaking myself.  What better way to beat the heat than to give it a shot on a blistering Saturday?

I met up with the Charles River Canoe & Kayak team near Kendall Square in Cambridge. Their tents and colorful kayaking gear were set up right by a protected harbor on the river. Our river guides, Steve and Dan, gathered our tour group and outlined our adventure. Both of our guides have been paddling their whole lives. They’re also trained in basic first-aid, although the trip turned out to be relaxed enough that it didn’t matter. Their knowledge made me feel safer though, before getting into a very big river in what felt to me like a very small kayak.

Steve shared stories of the city and river. He's been paddling for over 40 years! (Caroline McDonald)

Steve also made us comfortable by explaining a few river basics. His instructions were simple (“This is up. This is down.”), but they were beneficial for me and some others who had never been taught how to hold a double-sided paddle. And luckily for anyone who’s never been on a river at all, paddling is pretty intuitive. This three-hour Boston Harbor Kayak Tour is suitable for just about any skill level.

We paired off into tandem kayaks, and I met my partner for the day, Florin Brasov. Florin is a software engineer from Needham, Massachusetts who’s originally from Romania. He had done a similar kayaking trip earlier this summer and came back to get up close in a unique way to the huge ships docked at the Charlestown Navy Yard.

But before we hit salt water, we paddled down the fresh water river. I thought of the poem, The Bridge, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow as we drifted under the old stone columns of the Longfellow Bridge built at the turn of the century. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow supposedly walked over this bridge’s predecessor from Cambridge to visit his sweetheart in Boston every day. Stone sculptures of Viking ships adorn the sides of the columns, and I enjoyed this treat visible only from the water!

We paddled by the Museum of Science where a beautiful outdoor wedding was being set up, past ramshackle fishing boats tied up next to yachts worth more than my head (or, at least, the education in it–but you’d have to ask my Dad to be certain of that), and observed (from an unobtrusive distance) a cormorant, a bird with unique deep-diving abilities, drying his water-drenched wings in the sun. Before long, we’d traveled the length of Boston proper.

Very few people get to see the belly of the Zakim Bridge. It's even more impressive in person. (Caroline McDonald photo)

We passed through a narrow canal and felt very tiny under the Zakim Bridge, the widest cable-stayed bridge in the world (as you may recall from my Bike Boston article).

Finally, we reached the Charles River Dam and the locks dividing the fresh water of Charles from the salty bay of Charlestown. When we were given the go-ahead green light from the guards, we entered these locks.

Add river locks to the long list of technologies Leonardo da Vinci designed. They are quite an experience if you’ve never encountered them before. In a kayak you get to feel da Vinci’s genius first hand. At first, all we could see were the stone walls that surrounded us. The water slowly poured in, and we rose up to the bay’s level. I’d first encountered locks this spring when I went rafting on the Concord River in Lowell, and I enjoyed my second  encounter with these historic structures just as much.

Two famous ships were the main attraction that drew us into the saltwater. Boston was hosting the Coast Guard Cutter Eagle, nicknamed “America’s Tall Ship.” The U.S. took this huge ship (built in Hamburg in 1936) as reparation from Germany after World War II. It has recently been traveling to major U.S. cities to celebrate its 75th birthday. Although the Coast Guard Cutter Eagle was only there for the one weekend, the U.S.S. Constitution (“Old Ironsides”) calls Boston home. This famous ship was christened by George Washington himself and is the world’s oldest, floating commissioned navy vessel. Unlike the cutter Eagle, this black beauty can always be seen on the Boston Harbor Kayak Tour.  Florin was ecstatic to be near them. He insisted that we paddle as close as possible to the huge ships. The Constitution, in particular, was as close to a Captain Hook pirate ship as I’ve ever seen (and yes, I’ve been to Disney World), and Florin’s excitement was contagious. The ships were definitely the highlight of the tour for me!

Steve and Dan were able to tell us about these ships’ unique histories. In fact, they told us the history about much of the water we traveled through. The same river that thousands of cars, bikers, and subways cross over every day is as alive with history as Bunker Hill or the gold-domed capital building, both of which you get excellent views of, by the way.

The U.S.S. Constitution, nicknamed "Old Ironsides" (the black ship), is the oldest commissioned warship in the world. It permanently resides in Boston. Our tour group was also fortunate to see "America's Tall Ship," alongside it. (Caroline McDonald photo)

The trip back up the river was as leisurely as the one down (the dam means little or no current, so the paddling stays easy!). Steve was right when he said that, aside from an air conditioned room, being in a kayak on the water is the coolest place you can be on a hot Boston day. The weather felt perfect, and I was more than a little sorry for my friends who weren’t actually enjoying being outside in the heat.

Kayaking on the Charles is a must if you’re in Boston in the summertime. It’s a wonderful addition to any vacation visit or an unusual weekend activity if you live here. Even if you’ve lived in the city all your life, it’s a way to get a new perspective that you really can’t get any other way.  I can’t lie, I felt pretty awesome telling the girls in my office Monday morning what I had done last weekend. I recommended it to all of them, and I recommend it to you.

When you go

Charles River Canoe & Kayak offers the only kayak rentals in the immediate Boston area. Their business has locations in Newton, Natick, and Nahanton Park where they also offer a variety of quality kayaking options.

There are many tours in addition to the one I took. Explore their website to see what other trips might be of interest to you. Their website is full of information from rental rates to availability in cities outside of Boston. Personally, I’d like to go back for the Skyline & Sunset Tour because watching the sunset from the Charles is magnificent. (Even if you don’t end up renting a kayak, you must watch the sunset on the Charles from one of the docks!).  Charles River Canoe & Kayak offers rentals without a guided tour as well. Plenty of experienced kayakers like to explore on their own.

Bring a bottle of water and as little else as possible. Dry bags are available, but keeping it simple with minimal “stuff” makes any outdoor experience more enjoyable.

No part of this trip was stressful or particularly difficult. Remember to kick back, enjoy the breeze, and take in the magnificent views of New England’s best city.