The best and largest parts of Lake Umbagog State Park are accessible only by
boat. But landlubbers aren't left out of the picture, thanks to the state of New
Hampshire's acquisition of a small piece of shorefront property in 1998. The
tiny strip of land that is the state's newest state park campground feels like a remote hunting/fishing camp.
Lake Umbagog, viewed from the shore of the state park.
There are no hiking trails in the park. Most activities, including swimming,
canoeing, kayaking and fishing, are on the 8,500-acre Lake Umbagog. The
shoreline of the 10-mile long lake is largely undeveloped, and includes a
section of National Wildlife Refuge. The nearest
town is Errol, where you can buy groceries, outdoor and camping gear, gas and
liquor. Other than that, you'll share the area with other campers, fishermen,
and boaters, logging trucks, moose and other wildlife. The state park
offers guided lake tours by pontoon boat on weekends in the summer, and Saco
Bound, a private outfitter in Errol offers numerous float, kayaking and
whitewater trips on Umbagog and nearby Magalloway and Androscogging Rivers.
Moose are frequently seen munching on aquatic plants in lake coves and
shallows. Bald eagles nest on the lake and frequently circle overhead. Lake
Umbagog has the largest population of nesting loons in New Hampshire, and the
big black and white aquatic birds will sing you to sleep with their wild and
eerie cries at night.
Of the 69 campsites, 34 are "remote,"
accessible only by boat. You can use your own boat, canoe or kayak. Be beware,
the lake has strong currents and water can be very choppy, especially on windy
days. Unless
you're an experienced paddler, you might want to consider arranging transportation on the state
pontoon boat ($35, reserve at least a week in advance). You can park your car at
a lot in the developed portion of the campground.
Remote sites can -- and should -- be reserved in advance. Reservations are
taken starting in January, and the sites book quickly. Each remote site has a
fireplace, picnic table, and a primitive pit toilet. All are very isolated and
private. These backcountry sites are carry in/carry out -- there are no trash
cans or trash pick-up. Nor is there any cell phone signal in this remote area --
so plan your trip well, especially if you don't have a boat and are relying on
scheduled drop-offs and pick-ups.
Weather can be unpredictable and cold even in the summer. A windy day can
make paddling tough, especially if you're heading to or from one of the more
distant remote sites. Be sure you have rain gear, warm clothing, fresh drinking
water and extra food.
Canoes and kayaks are available by the hour ($5) or for overnight rental
($29). You may, of course, bring your own boat. Motorized boats are allowed and
there is a trailer ramp. The average lake depth is only 15 feet and the
shoreline is very shallow and rocky. Good navigation skills, and a depth map or depth finder would
be helpful with any boat other than a kayak or canoe. The state also has two
small aluminum boats with 9.9 HP motors available for hourly rental.
This new state park feels like a remote hunting and fishing camp -- which it
kind of is.
The lakeside base has 35 camping sites, only three of which cannot be
reserved. This campground fills quickly once reservations are taken
starting in January. Reservations must be made at least a week in advance. If
you don't have a reservation, it's suggested that you call the park directly to
check on site availability (603-482-7795). Three rustic cabins are also available by reservation.
Developed campsites vary a great deal in space and privacy. Some are on
large, level pieces of land surrounded by mature trees, others are cramped and
in the middle of a field with no trees for privacy. Actually, these
less private sites rent for a premium because they offer unrestricted views of
the water. Still other waterfront campsites are large and private, but suitable
only for tent campers. Nonetheless, all of the developed campsites have
electrical and water hookups. Traffic noise, mostly from logging trucks, can be
bothersome at the sites close to Route 26, which provides access to the
campground.
If you're tent camping, or expect
to spend much time outside, be sure to bring insect repellent and appropriate
clothing. The area is wet and black flies and mosquitoes are plentiful.
The campground has warm showers, flush toilets, sinks with hot and cold
running water, and a coin-operated clothes dryer. A small camp store sells ice
and other essentials such as insect repellent and sunscreen. Campground staff is
friendly and very knowledgeable about the area. Maps of the lake are
available. Some of New Hampshire's state parks prohibit canine friends, but
Umbagog allows dogs on leash. Signs tell campers that this is "experimental" and
if neither pets nor owners are well-behaved, dogs will be prohibited in the
future. So for the sake of your pet and others, make sure you abide by the
rules, and clean up all pet waste.
We visited in late June without reservations, and could only stay one night.
The non-reservable sites were occupied, and the remaining sites were booked
beginning the next day. Despite several large groups, including a couple of
multi-generational, guys-only, fishing expeditions, the campground was silent by
9 p.m. Although our site was fairly private, we found ourselves vowing to plan
ahead so we could return to one of the remote campsites.
Sites at the base camp vary from wooded and private to wide open, but on the
lake.
Campgrounds Guide 
